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Broad Shoulders, Skinny Waist, Thin Neck

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by francis_t, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    Hi all, I'm new to this Forum. Used to use Kinowear but it has died a death recently, with lots of spam [​IMG].

    I'll get right to my problem, if I may.

    I have wide shoulders, a slim torso and 15.5 inch neck. I get all my shirts tailored to fit my body. I buy 15.5 inch necks.

    My problem is, that my shirts seem to not be big enough for my shoulders. I'm guessing that having a 15.5 inch neck means the designers of off the rail shirts don't think you'd have wide shoulders?

    I've stuck a few photos up to help explain. Apologies for my lack of ironing.

    Should I be buying larger neck sizes, huge shirts, then having them tailored? Or any other suggestions, would be helpful.

    Francis
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    shoulder looks fine, what are you talking about?
     
  3. razl

    razl Senior member

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    I'm in a similar boat: 15.5 neck, 19.5'ish shoulders, and a 31-32" waist.

    For dress shirts, I have to find 15.5 neck with 25" sleeves (41 Euro) to get enough chest room and enough sleeve length, I then have to have it tailored down (at least slimming the sides, usually darting the back as well). Occasionally, I'll have to have my shoulders pulled in a bit too (which takes length off the sleeves, sigh). That's $10-$30 a shirt, depending on the surgery...

    For sportshirts, I almost always have to get Large or XL to get the chest, sleeve length that I want and again a bunch of tailoring. I have to be real careful though because the L and XLs tend to have correspondingly larger necks which can end up with me having a big collar on a fitted shirt...

    All that said, I haven't found a specific line that reduces the tailoring surgery afterwards. I'm all ears for OTR suggestions that fit the bill (or at least fit it closer).

    Or maybe I should just be manning up and getting MTM...but then I don't have anywhere near the material/print choices that I get from OTR.
     
  4. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    lee_44106,

    The stretching between collar and lower shoulder. It actually ends up pulling the buttons off the collar, after a few months of wear. Photos aren't too clear perhaps.

    razl,

    I've had a look at MTM shirts online. The closet I came to using an online retailer was with: http://www.shirtsmyway.com/design_myshirt.php which I'm still considering trying. Free international shipping is attractive.

    But yes, it is a real pain. You can end up spending £40 on the shirt, £10 for the tapering and end up being unhappy with something like shoulder room. It makes you think MTM might end up being cheaper in the long run.

    I'm in the UK and can't recommend any high street shirt-retailers/makers. They are all wrong! I buy 15.5 inch neck, slim fit (not sure why I bother) and then take them to the tailors.

    I'm going to speak to my tailor tomorrow to ask about the stretching around my shoulders and whether she can do something in future or if she recommends I buy larger collar sizes. I may even ask if she'll make a shirt for me.

    It makes buying for work, something which most people will do in bulk, extremely difficult.
     
  5. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    oh, and XL arms. I have monkey arms too. [​IMG]
     
  6. razl

    razl Senior member

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    Sorry, my first post was more of a crying-in-my-beer since I foudn someone in a similar situation.

    Having looked at your pics, the white shoulder looks to fit ok (though I'd still like it pulled in .5" more) but the blue one looks too big - the seam is 1"+ down your arm.

    Both of those could be fixed (though I don't know if I'd bother with the white one) by your tailor who can pull the shoulders in a bit. Again, like I said in my first post though, you'll lose some length in the sleeve.
     
  7. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    So you folks think the 'lines' between collar and shoulder are OK. I'm finding it quite hard to explain, it feels as though if I were to push my shoulders back slightly the button's would pop off.

    I've tried on a friends 16.5 inch shirt and I feel a lot more space for my shoulders, upper chest and those stretched lines as on photos above don't appear.

    So I think shoulder length is fine. What could be the problem? Lack of chest space? If so why would that make these lines appear in this position.
     
  8. nohomo

    nohomo Senior member

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    I think its the chest. I just tried grabbing some fabric off my chest and got the same lines as you. The shoulders are fine, and if anything too big on the blue shirt. Try BB classic fit, which are pretty voluminous throughout, and get the waist taken in if needed.
     
  9. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    Here's a better photo of the lines.

    Yeah, I think it is the chest being too tight.

    Now the next question is, was that the tailor or not! I have varying degrees of it in most of my tailored shirts. I've just noticed the 4 I got back recently, 2 of them have a lot of it.

    I'll ask the tailor whether I should start buying regular fit rather than slim.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. razl

    razl Senior member

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    I can't say for sure whether it was your tailor or not, but I will say that something looks very wrong. The collar looks good, the shoulder/sleeve seam looks good, but those lines are indicating a problem of some sort (lacking enouhg material in the upper chest?).

    You should definitely be able to go back and model that for your tailor and get an explanation and/or a diagnose + possible fix. If your tailor is reputable, I would think they wouldn't be happy to see those results on you either and would correct it.
     
  11. epic raccoon

    epic raccoon Senior member

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    Am I the only one who thinks the second shirt pictured is too big in the shoulders?

    I'm 5'7" with 18" shoulders, 29" waist, 15.5" neck and 40" chest. After spending months and months trying to find OTR shirts that fit me in the shoulders with my neck size, never mind paying attention to the torso, I have come to the conclusion that MTM is perhaps my best option. Many hours searching StyleForum have allowed me to come to the conclusion that MyTailor.com would be a good choice, especially if one gets measured by their traveling tailors on tour.

    ...now to save up the money!
     
  12. razl

    razl Senior member

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    Am I the only one who thinks the second shirt pictured is too big in the shoulders?

    If by the second picture you mean the blue shirt pic in his original post, I said the same thing earlier: it looks like the shirt/sleeve seam is off by 1"+.


    now to save up the money!
    (sigh) please make room, we're in the same boat.
     
  13. epic raccoon

    epic raccoon Senior member

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    If by the second picture you mean the blue shirt pic in his original post, I said the same thing earlier: it looks like the shirt/sleeve seam is off by 1"+.

    Whoops, didn't catch that the first time around. It's a little bit too early for me !!


    (sigh) please make room, we're in the same boat.

    [​IMG]

    Now if I could only get myself to stop visiting thrift and outlet stores every other day...
     
  14. francis_t

    francis_t Member

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    Back from the tailor, basically:

    Priority is a) arm length b) collar size and then c) chest. She thinks it is a lack of chest space and just to check when I'm buying in future. I trust her advice and anyway, if it was something she inadvertantley added to then she'll be aware of it next time.

    At least the other two shirts are better.

    MTM is the way forward, not really the money which bothers me, it's the risk factor. I.e. not as promised, problems returning, poor workmanship. It's like buying a pair of shoes over the internet.

    Cheers all
     
  15. ZON_JR

    ZON_JR Senior member

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    Waiting for mention of the new black suit.
     

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