British shirts-help needed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ollie, Aug 6, 2006.

  1. ollie

    ollie Active Member

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    I just ordered two shirts fronm Hilditch and Key, both with their cut-away
    collar. Both are very nice shirts but one one of them had the sleeves about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the other. As i do have long arms in proportion(15.5 and 35 or 35.5 sleeves) both shirts had to be lengthened by my seamstress. But the one wich had shorter sleeves is still a bit to short.
    i am pretty fond of the quality of the shirts. i especially like the non fused collar. now, my question is are there any other british/jermynstreet-makers that offer a choice of sleevelength AND a non fused collar?
     
  2. ColumbiaKai

    ColumbiaKai Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered two shirts fronm Hilditch and Key, both with their cut-away
    collar. Both are very nice shirts but one one of them had the sleeves about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the other. As i do have long arms in proportion(15.5 and 35 or 35.5 sleeves) both shirts had to be lengthened by my seamstress. But the one wich had shorter sleeves is still a bit to short.
    i am pretty fond of the quality of the shirts. i especially like the non fused collar. now, my question is are there any other british/jermynstreet-makers that offer a choice of sleevelength AND a non fused collar?


    I've had great experience with TM Lewin (www.tmlewin.co.uk) of Jermyn Street... great selection by collar/sleeve lengths.
     
  3. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    I've had great experience with TM Lewin (www.tmlewin.co.uk) of Jermyn Street... great selection by collar/sleeve lengths.
    Lewin's quality really doesn't compare to H&K. Harvie and Hudson offers set sleeve lengths and are the only quality Jermyn St house to do so. By quality, I mean H&K, Budd, T&A, and New & Lingwood. Lewin, Tyrwhitt, Pink, Hawes & Curtis, Haines & Bonner and the rest don't quite measure up.
     
  4. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Ollie, did your seamstress length the sleeves of the H&K shirts by using the 2 cm. of extra sleeve buried inside the cuff? Actually, it's hard to imagine how else s/he could have done so. If, however, this was accomplished some other way, you will have the extra 2 cm. to work with now. As far as I know, H&K is the only shirtmaker to provide extra sleeve length (mainly for lengthening after shrinkage, I would imagine) in the cuff. One other Jermyn Street maker accomplishes this by providing the extra at the sleeve-shoulder seam, but I forget just who it is--perhaps Coles.
     
  5. Associate

    Associate Senior member

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    If you order directly from H&K, I believe you have the option of asking them to lengthen/shorten the sleeves for a samml extra charge. Have you looked into that?
     
  6. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    I mentioned Coles shirts above as possibly the maker that offered extra sleeve length, but I now see that this is not the case. However, in my perusal of the Coles website, I noticed that they do offer multiple sleeve lengths--for a 15.5" collar, for example, sleeve lengths of 32", 33", 34", 35", and 36". Although perhaps not among the elite Jermyn St. makers, Coles makes, from what I've gathered on these forums, a pretty well-regarded shirt. Here's the link:

    http://www.coles-shirtmakers.com/mensindex.asp
     
  7. Tibo

    Tibo Senior member

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    I mentioned Coles shirts above as possibly the maker that offered extra sleeve length, but I now see that this is not the case. However, in my perusal of the Coles website, I noticed that they do offer multiple sleeve lengths--for a 15.5" collar, for example, sleeve lengths of 32", 33", 34", 35", and 36". Although perhaps not among the elite Jermyn St. makers, Coles makes, from what I've gathered on these forums, a pretty well-regarded shirt. Here's the link:

    http://www.coles-shirtmakers.com/mensindex.asp


    I would certainly second the recommendation for Coles. They might not be in the premier league where H&K or N&L definitely belong (I own shirts of both and they are indeed excellent shirts), but they are second to no other (and certainly not to TM Lewin which I'd rather compare to Tyrwhitt than to others in terms of quality - I'm not discussing fit here). Excellent stuff, very nice collars, and almost all the features required from a J-Street shirtmaker. Plus, the choice in sleeve length. Only turn-off: limited choice of patterns.
     
  8. ollie

    ollie Active Member

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    thank you guys for all your answers and suggestions. @ roger : yes, my seamstress used the two cm wich where in the sleeve. still,this shirt now still is a bit too short, whereas the other shirt is already the exact same length BEFORE letting the two cm out. i must say i am a bit disappointed about the obviuos inconsistent sleevelength at h&k.

    my original answer was if you guys knew a maker which had both different sleeve lenghtes AND a non-fused collar.
    regarding COLES, i never heard of them, but the shirts seem really interesting, judged by their site. they even have all the patterns matching...
    but can anyone anlighten me : when COLES speak of a two-piece collar, does that mean it is unfused?
     
  9. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    As far as I'm aware, none of the Jermyn St. shirtmakers fuse their collars. I would assume Coles to do the same.
     
  10. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Seems like you need to go bespoke to get the quality and fit you demand.
     
  11. Tibo

    Tibo Senior member

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    thank you guys for all your answers and suggestions. @ roger : yes, my seamstress used the two cm wich where in the sleeve. still,this shirt now still is a bit too short, whereas the other shirt is already the exact same length BEFORE letting the two cm out. i must say i am a bit disappointed about the obviuos inconsistent sleevelength at h&k.

    my original answer was if you guys knew a maker which had both different sleeve lenghtes AND a non-fused collar.
    regarding COLES, i never heard of them, but the shirts seem really interesting, judged by their site. they even have all the patterns matching...
    but can anyone anlighten me : when COLES speak of a two-piece collar, does that mean it is unfused?


    The Coles collar is nothing like fused and the overall quality of the Coles shirts is as far as I can tell on par with H&K or N&L -the fabrics choice excepted. Plus the Coles cutaway collar is *really* nice.
     
  12. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    AND a non-fused collar.

    Is there something inherently wrong with a fused collar?
     

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