Brioni cut, where have thee gone?

[Chrenetique]

I was recently trying out a couple of Brioni jackets at the Bon Marché (Paris), and I was hugely disappointed by the cut. It's not the same thing anymore. My old Brionis have generous shoulders, a huge "muscular" chest, and some kind of rounded overall effect. Comparatively, our 2012 Brionis show normal shoulders (not especially flattering), a good but rather ordinary chest, a longer length, and look quite lean overall (which means your attention is concentrated on the slim curves of the waist, whereas the old Brionis were notable for their bold rounded chest). Now, the current Brionis look like any other jacket from any high-end designer. Lanvin comes to mind. It does not look bad; it does not look like Brioni either.
Is this only a problem affecting the European Brionis, or does the American market suffer from this change as well? And do you think this is just an unwanted effect of fashion that will fade out and let shine again that gorgeously classic Brioni cut?

 

[othertravel]

Doesn't Brioni have multiple cuts?

 

[MyOtherLife]

No matter the company the wise edict will always be give (or sell to) the people what they want and for the next 10 years or more they want slimmer cuts. As not everyone can pull off a generously shouldered Brioni in the first place I would conclude that the market simply isn't there, at least not at present.

 

[Chrenetique]

Multiple cuts now? Maybe. Better cuts yesterday? Sure.

There is undoubtedly a market for manly cuts; market nowadays colonized by Tom Ford whose success can't be questioned.

 

[ballmouse]

The only thing I see "un-Brioni" about your photo is that it's a little slim. But maybe a comparison photo would better shoe me what I'm not seeing.

 

[othertravel]



Multiple cuts now? Maybe. Better cuts yesterday? Sure.
There is undoubtedly a market for manly cuts; market nowadays colonized by Tom Ford whose success can't be questioned.

I thought that there were always were multiple models. Either way, they still make good stuff.

I hope Gucci doesn't shut down their factory.

 

[jeff13007]



Multiple cuts now? Maybe. Better cuts yesterday? Sure.
There is undoubtedly a market for manly cuts; market nowadays colonized by Tom Ford whose success can't be questioned.

I might be misunderstanding your post but what do you mean by "multiple cuts now? maybe" Brioni has always had multiple cuts. Older ones from when i first started buying them them were Palatino(sp?), Millenio (sp?) and Nomentano. Newer ones I've seen have been Chiga, Platone, and Spartaco, Quinralie (dinner jackets only for the last two, as far as I've seen). Over the years I've owned a Palatino, several nomentanos, a chiga, and a quinralie, and they all look and fit differently.