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Brioni alteration/tailor question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by novalis, Oct 30, 2004.

  1. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    I just bought a Brioni suit (SB, 3 button, navy chalkstripe, super 150s) with the sleeves left unfinished. This is my first Brioni, not sure what model it is, but it looks and feels great. A couple of questions (one of which may be naive of me to ask):

    (1) Are the sleeves meant to be finished with working sleeve buttons?

    (2) Whether working sleeves are intended or not, should I go to the local Brioni store (Beverly Hills) to get necessary alterations done? Or should I go to a local tailor? I also probably need to get the sides taken in a bit, as well as the waist on the trousers. I just want to make sure everything is done right - esp if working sleeves are intended.

    Finally, if you suggest going to a tailor, please recommend one for Southern California.

    Thanks.
     
  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    1. yes
    2. sure, you can go to Brioni or a local tailor. Most stores (I know Ralph Lauren does) will tailor garments that you haven't bought there. It makes sense for them to tailor a Brioni you bought elsewhere, otherwise it would be bad for their customer service. Do not take it to your local dry cleaner, but if there's a good tailor near you, that would work too. My personal choice would be to go to Brioni. Why pay russian roulette with a local tailor, just take it to the source.
     
  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Someone had mentioned that Brioni in NY at least does not tailor suits unless you buy them there. I imagine the Rodeo Drive one is similar.

    I am sure someone can recommend a tailor in the LA area for you though.
     
  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    1. Yes. get working buttonholes.
    2. call Brioni, ask them where they send the suits for alteration (if they use external sources). Otherwise, find local bespoke tailor shop and do it there. Just avoid dry cleaning alteration store, you should be fine.
     
  5. Ed13

    Ed13 Senior member

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    I would recommend having the surgeon cuffs done at the place you bought the suit. I purchased o brioni sportcoat and had the store perform the alterations. The The surgeon cuffs were poorly done with a 1/4" gap left between 2 bottons. Since the store's tailor made the mistake I was able to return the jacket. The store also gave me a discount on a Brioni suit I purchased this summer as an apology. If I had gone to another tailor to have the work done I would have been stuck with the jacket. Once the cloth is cut you are stuck with it. Be careful, it sounds like a great suit.
     
  6. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    Strangely, most Brioni stores will not perform these alterations, unless bought in that location. If you can find a tailor to alter your trousers and the jacket waist, I strongly recommend noting the amount the jacket sleeves must be shortened or lengthened, and send to Custom Clothes of Atlanta [see listing in Steve's book for details/ contact info]. They will send the jacket back to you, post paid, with kissing functional buttonholes for $100.
     
  7. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    Thanks to all the helpful replies. I think I will call the local Brioni store and see if they use an external tailor. If that doesn't work out, I'm hopeful someone can recommend a top-notch tailor in the LA area to do the alterations.
     
  8. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    If I do go to a tailor, what exactly are the proper measurements for working buttonholes? The correct amount spacing between buttonholes? The correct distance from the sleeve edge to the first button? How many buttons should I get (jacket came with 11 sleeve buttons)?
     
  9. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    The spacing between buttonholes should be the width of the button, so that when they are sewn on the edges of the buttons are just touching ("kissing"). Generally, unless you have a (reason for a) preference, there should be four buttons, with the bottom button no more than 3/4" from the end of the sleeve. I think they look best about 1/2" from the end, but it's a preference.

    Another of my own picky details is to make sure the ends of the cuffs are sewn "mitred" rather than "folded over". It's hard to explain, but there was a thread about it a while back (I think I started the thread).
     
  10. j

    j Senior member Admin

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  11. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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  12. mussel

    mussel Senior member

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    How can I get Steve's book?
     
  13. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    (The_Foxx @ 30 Oct. 2004, 11:18) If you can find a tailor to alter your trousers and the jacket waist, I strongly recommend noting the amount the jacket sleeves must be shortened or lengthened, and send to Custom Clothes of Atlanta [see listing in Steve's book for details/ contact info].
    How can I get Steve's book?
    http://www.styleforum.net/cgi-bin....;t=3248
     
  14. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the links to the tailors.
     
  15. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    the bottom button 1/2 an inch from the end of the sleeve? Are you serious?
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a little close, but not outrageously so.
     
  17. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I thought 1 1/4" was standard. And on RTW you pretty much see 1 1/2"
    I am shocked to hear talk about 1/2 an inch, that's practically on the end of the sleeve and looks ridiculous IMO.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Actually, 1 1/4" from the center of the last button to the edge of the sleeve is the old Savile Row standard. For most buttons, that means the edge of the button is about 7/8", maybe 3/4", from the end of the sleeve. That length is not supposed to be exceeded. Too far from the edge looks a lot worse than too close.
     
  19. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    I called Brioni in Beverly Hills and spoke to Linda. She said as long as it's a Brioni suit I could have it altered at the store. They have 5 tailors onsite, no appt needed but there's a 2-3 week wait currently.
     

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