Briefcase Appreciation thread

[sclemmons]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good reference of a hierarchy of leather briefcase makers, roughly $1500 or less? I've read through a year's worth of posts in this thread and saw lots of nice bags, but its difficult to understand the comparative quality and value of each brand. Do smaller makers (e.g. equus or clegg) generally offer better value over mass-produced bags, or is it a matter of quality and potential customization?

 

[sclemmons]

Three or four great brands.

I had had Atlas, Renwick, Tanner Kroll’s, and other traditional lines. Not going back.

Tumi. Alpha is a great bag. Lifetime guarantee.

Lotuff. Well recommended. Nothing custom. Made in USA.

Glaser. Like Tumi but custom. Very nice.

Frank Clegg. The MAN. After looking at all the above, I visited his shop ( after Glaser ) and I have invested in Frank and the Clegg boys. I have five Clegg pieces. Including a zip top brief case and a Dopp Kit. Could easily have gone with Glaser. But Frank made the sale. Visit Fall River if you can.

 

[Reloc8]

I'd be a big fan of Frank Clegg at that price point too, and in general.

I have a black zip-top and tan english. Both double gusset.

Great quality and I anticipate owning them for life. They're really outstanding value. I looked long and hard and could not find better in or around the price.

It helped that these models were more or less exactly what I was looking for of course.

 

[Leander walker]

Ghurka briefcases are excellent quality,now that they are again made in the United states,and fit into that price point. The English made cases are exquisite and top quality ,but more expensive. Tusting, which is made in the UK,machine stitched but still excellent quality at a much lower price

 

[ErikW]

I'll toss my vote in for Hrothgar Stibbons, Mitchell Leather and Lefren. All three can be had for under $1500, and excellent quality.

 

[johng70]

I have to say, I'm still a big fan of my Saddleback Thin briefcase. Sells for $529. Other models sell for $600 or $700 roughly. It is definitely a more rugged look than many of the English models. But, the important thing is - it is built like a tank. The first few months I worried about keeping it looking pristine but then I stopped. It's been 6 years and it certainly has some scars from travel and such. But not the slightest sign of any issues. Now, since I bought the bag I believe they have moved manufacturing from USA to Mexico, so not sure if there's an issue. But, I still get compliments on this bag and a big part of it is the particular aesthetic of rugged durability.

 

[Leander walker]

When you think of all the great brands from the past that were American made,it's sad. Hartmann once made great business cases in Lebanon Tennessee factory. All under $1500. Samsonite bought the company,immediately closed American factory and moved production to China. Today the luggage is way lower quality and they don't even make a Hartmann briefcase anymore. Atlas was a wonderful,well made brand,made in their Philadelphia factory. Korchmar bought the company ,started making the bags overseas,then ceased using the name altogether. Schlesinger,another great American brand,made in new jersey was also bought by korchmar and the name also soon ceased to exist. Korchmar is widely known for touting themselves as an American company and indeed,everytbing they sold was formerly made in their Cincinnati factory. But now they use "American leather" and manufacture in the Dominican Republic while touting their "American Heritage". Mulholland Brothers made really nice bags in their San Francisco factory,then owner jay holland decided to close the factory and make everytbing in china. Quality plunged and within a few years the company was out of business. Now they're back as " j :holland co" making the bags (you guessed it) in china the state of the American business case industry is a sad one

 

[sclemmons]

Frank Clegg and Glaser Designs were going strong in the USA the last I checked. Also Lotuff.

 

[Leander walker]

Hartmann,Atlas and Schlesinger were legacy brands that made traditionally designed briefcases.Lo tuff.frank Clegg and Glaser designs make bags more suited for the modern computer generation. Ghurka and Jack Georges make more a couple of more traditionally ally designed briefcases and both also made in USA

 

[Equus Leather]

I you want to support quality US manufacture Frank Clegg has got to be worth a look. If you want UK made there are a few makers still over here

In terms of a hierarchy, that's always tough. There are some good posts above, but really its down to what you value. As you get nearer and nearer the top of the tree the law of diminishing returns kicks in with a vengeance and the prices will reflect the time the makers put in

In addition to the UK and USA there are some very good makers indeed in Japan, well worth a look

Charlie

 

[Leander walker]

In the UK you can go wrong with Ettinger,Foster's,Equus,Swaine Adeney,and at a lower price point,English Satchel Co and Tusting. And all will happily ship to the United States

 

[Leander walker]

Sorry,my above post should have read CANT go wrong with any of the listed British brands. They are all fabulous companies. Tusting is a lot more casual and you can't compare them to Ettinger,Swaine Adeney,Foster's or Equus,but they make a very fine product for a low price point

 

[fazalmajid]

Frank Clegg and Glaser Designs were going strong in the USA the last I checked. Also Lotuff.

Not sure about Glaser going strong, even before the Coronavirus.

Before moving from SF to London last June, I commissioned a platform backpack from Glaser as a going-away souvenir, and visited their new workshop on Pacific Avenue a stone's throw from my old apartment. I had visited their previous one on Folsom Street, which was nice and airy, the new one is dingy and cramped in comparison.

They are the victims of San Francisco's ridiculously overheated commercial property market. Most of their staff live in SF and would not be able to continue working at Glaser if they moved out of the City, plus Myron Glaser and his wife Kari are getting on in years. If you have been sitting on the fence about getting one of their bags, you'd better hurry, it's unclear how long they will survive the gentrification of San Francisco.

They pride themselves on the durability of their bags, many sold to people in the petroleum industry where they have to endure rough handling. They don't have as many leather choices as they used to, but still far more options than most other bag makers because they have their own leatherworking equipment, including hand-tinted leather (expensive!). I got one in natural quebracho-tanned leather. It takes about 6 months to go from the pinkish tan natural color to a warm light brown. One thing they specialize in is tailoring the organizational features and inserts in your bag to your exact specifications, Kari will actually design them in CAD for you.

If you are looking for completely bespoke leather cases for various equipment, I can recommend Stéphane Lemaître at Atelier Subdivise, a French craftsman who only does custom work. His specialty is outdoor goods, so the leather is thicker and the styling more rustic, but the craftsmanship is in the same league as Equus' (they share some traits like saddle-stitching using French linen fil au Chinois). I've had a sunglasses case and this camera holster made by him

 

[Patek]

I have to say, I'm still a big fan of my Saddleback Thin briefcase. Sells for $529. Other models sell for $600 or $700 roughly. It is definitely a more rugged look than many of the English models. But, the important thing is - it is built like a tank. The first few months I worried about keeping it looking pristine but then I stopped. It's been 6 years and it certainly has some scars from travel and such. But not the slightest sign of any issues. Now, since I bought the bag I believe they have moved manufacturing from USA to Mexico, so not sure if there's an issue. But, I still get compliments on this bag and a big part of it is the particular aesthetic of rugged durability.

I do like Saddleback. I have one of their trunks, some belts, a wallet, and a camera case. Their natural is awesome and takes on its own patina.

 

[brax]

Not sure about Glaser going strong, even before the Coronavirus.

Before moving from SF to London last June, I commissioned a platform backpack from Glaser as a going-away souvenir, and visited their new workshop on Pacific Avenue a stone's throw from my old apartment. I had visited their previous one on Folsom Street, which was nice and airy, the new one is dingy and cramped in comparison.

They are the victims of San Francisco's ridiculously overheated commercial property market. Most of their staff live in SF and would not be able to continue working at Glaser if they moved out of the City, plus Myron Glaser and his wife Kari are getting on in years. If you have been sitting on the fence about getting one of their bags, you'd better hurry, it's unclear how long they will survive the gentrification of San Francisco.

They pride themselves on the durability of their bags, many sold to people in the petroleum industry where they have to endure rough handling. They don't have as many leather choices as they used to, but still far more options than most other bag makers because they have their own leatherworking equipment, including hand-tinted leather (expensive!). I got one in natural quebracho-tanned leather. It takes about 6 months to go from the pinkish tan natural color to a warm light brown. One thing they specialize in is tailoring the organizational features and inserts in your bag to your exact specifications, Kari will actually design them in CAD for you.

If you are looking for completely bespoke leather cases for various equipment, I can recommend Stéphane Lemaître at Atelier Subdivise, a French craftsman who only does custom work. His specialty is outdoor goods, so the leather is thicker and the styling more rustic, but the craftsmanship is in the same league as Equus' (they share some traits like saddle-stitching using French linen fil au Chinois). I've had a sunglasses case and this camera holster made by him

I would add Chester Mox in Los Angeles to this list.