Breast pocket help for new peak lapel blazer please.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Veremund, Jan 17, 2016.

  1. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    I'm having a navy hopsack blazer with peak lapels and patch pockets made up. Did I make a mistake in having the breast pocket a patch pocket style too? Should I have just requested a normal breast pocket?
     


  2. Johnsson

    Johnsson Senior member

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    Patch breast pockets are never my preference, and I regret the one time I went with them. My bias aside, I'm not sure they are a natural match with peak lapels.
     


  3. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    That's what I was fearing too. I wouldn't mind more opinions though. Anyone?
     


  4. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    Is this single or double breasted? Are you wanting this to be casual or formal? Where is the fabric on the formality scale?

    Generally speaking peak lapels are more formal where as patch pockets are more informal and so by requesting the two together is unusual, and arguably even more so if its SB.

    If it is SB then you may be able to pull it off if the lapels are on the narrower side and its a very informal fabric but the most the photos of jackets with this combination were more in the novelty category rather than classic and of those trying to be classical to me only one of them worked at all and the others looked wrong.
     


  5. WhereNext

    WhereNext Senior member

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    I have no real rational basis for this, so it's no more than opinion, but I don't think patch pockets go well with peak lapels. It may be a formality thing as mentioned earlier; I don't tend to think of peak lapels as inherently more formal on a blazer/suit/sportcoat, but I do think they are "sharper" (which may be the same thing to anyone not parsing unnecessarily). Patch pockets are quite casual and "slouchy" to my eye (not in a bad way, I quite like them with a notch lapel jacket), so I don't think they match well.
    I raised this a few months ago in reference to someone's gun club (I think?) jacket posted on WAYWRN: I noted my hang ups about it, and someone wiser than me responded to basically say I wasn't crazy (shows what he knows!) but also that it's fine to have patch and peak.
     


  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Gentlemen, thank you both for responding, and I have to say by and large I agree with your thoughts. I just spoke with the tailor and he told me there would be no issue putting in a normal breast pocket instead of the patch breast pocket.

    It will be a single-breasted jacket made of hopsack. It was my original intention to have it made as a blazer suit, but they told me they don't make trousers out of this particular fabric. I could have chosen a different one such as fresco, but I was really struck by the structure and texture of the hopsack. Also, I decided it would be better to order just a jacket first to make sure they really nail the fit. My fussiness about fit is exceeded only by the difficulty of finding a jacket OTR that even remotely fits me well.

    I'm more than a little jealous of the guys in the other threads who have recently posted that they do indeed have blazer suits made of hopsack. Oh well, at least I can look forward to wearing it with my many pairs of grey trousers.
     


  7. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    Hopesack is ultimately just a weave, by flexing the material, thread size, density of weave, finish etc you can create fairly different results. The classic fabric is light weight, textured/ matt finish and so lends itself to summer casual jackets and not robust enough for trousers but you can get a denser ones which start getting a shine and become both more formal and robust.

    Unfortunately I didnt pay much attention when ordering my hopsack jacket and its much more formal than I wanted and I instantly was envious of the guy that came after me into the tailors to have his final fit on an otherwise identical jacket and his looked so much better than mine :(
     


  8. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Mine is more of an open weave. Rather less more formal. The tailor told me it would be prone to snagging, so I should be careful / not be shocked if it does.
     


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