Brands cut like Tom Ford?

[josiahj]

Hey Everyone!

Long time lurker, first time poster here. I've been looking for a new suit to add to my wardrobe for a while, and have a few very specific elements I'm looking for that I haven't been able to find anywhere, and after a Google search and browsing the forums turned up nothing, I figured I'd make a post. I love the styling of Tom Ford's Base B model (yes I saw it in James Bond), however my budget is about $1000, and I don't like near any Tom Ford boutiques. My question is, are there ant OTR or MTM brands that offer a cut similar to a Tom Ford Base B, specifically:

Roped shoulders,
A largely suppressed waist,
5 button cuffs,
and 3-roll-2 lapel style

I figure that's probably an impossibly tall order for any basic off the rack company, but the main features I'm looking for are roped shoulders (is it just me or do all suits made in the U.S. these days seem to have bald shoulders?) and a strong "hourglass" waist suppression. Even most slim fit suits I find have a very lazy, smooth waist suppression, unlike the dramatic, chest-emphasizing cut of the Tom Ford Base B, as can be seen in these pics:



Compared to the waist suppression on most suits I see these days:


Notice how the Tom Ford has a much more strutted appearance to the chest area, and that the suppression seems structured into the jacket cut itself, rather than just done by making the racket tighter around the midsection (which results in the pulling and rumpled look in the third picture). Also, the tom ford flares out a bit at the bottom, giving it a much more balanced look. I have a very athletic and tapered figure (about a 9-inch drop) and would prefer to emphasize that rather than hide it with the cut of my suits. If anyone knows of any brands that have that more defined waist suppression and roped shoulders, please let me know! Thanks!

 

[BrooksLauren77]

Ralph Lauren Black Label is similar although somewhat over your budget at full retail.

 

[TOstyle]

Quick question, and I don't ask this facetiously, but have you tried any MTM tailors? Your initial post suggest you know what you are talking about, so I think it is likely you have. Are you looking for fit patterns on jackets that tend towards this as the base, so the amount of alterations you have to do to achieve the look for yourself is more minimal?

 

[josiahj]

That's exactly what I'm looking for actually!

 

[cgo]

I agree. Ralph Lauren black label is probably what you are after

 

[jaywhyy]

Zegna Roma

 

[luisisraelrios]

You could always look into Suitsupply's Washington model! Probably below any of the mentioned options in terms of construction (Made in China), though they source their fabrics from respected mills in Italy! I've always considered the Washington the poor man's Tom Ford as they usually range between $500-$700 after taxes and/or alterations. And it ticks off your boxes as far as the waist suppression, 5 button cuffs, the 3/2 roll, and it's even got the ticket pocket and wide peaks!

 

[josiahj]

Thanks! all great suggestions! I'll definitely have to check out the Washington!

 

[O’Keith]

A great counter to.Tom Ford is the brand Pini Parma. I feel the quality and craftsmanship will surprise you for the price point.

 

[WatchmeWhipWatchmena]

A great counter to.Tom Ford is the brand Pini Parma. I feel the quality and craftsmanship will surprise you for the price point.

I heard that Pini Parma is half canvassed. Is it not?

EDIT
I got confused with Loro Piana!!! I recall there being some dull canvas suits from Pini Parma on the higher wnd for 800£+

 

[dreamspace]

Appart from 5 button sleeves and 3-roll-2

Husbands Paris
Edward Sexton (Well, one could say that TF is cut like Sexton...)
Chester Barrie
Some older Ralph Lauren stuff. Polo RL Garrison cut

 

[dreamspace]

I think the hallmark of TF suits/jackets would be the lower gorge, in combination with roped and structured shoulders. It is very much 70s inspired, probably directly from the Tommy Nutter look. Most (IMO) Italian brands don't really do that exact look, as shoulders tend to be softer, gorge higher, as well as the button stance.

So you either have to go for brands that are directly inspired themselves after the 70s Nutter/Sexton look, or those that go even further back - think Ralph Lauren, though they too have a bit high gorge compared to TF.

 

[djohns7275]

There's a bunch of Lutwyche suits on Ebay . The were made in the factory in crewe Chesire England were the original Ralph Lauren purple label suits were made . The factory also made the Chester Barrie suits that were sold in their Savil row store .

 

[armcosmo]

You could always look into Suitsupply's Washington model! Probably below any of the mentioned options in terms of construction (Made in China), though they source their fabrics from respected mills in Italy! I've always considered the Washington the poor man's Tom Ford as they usually range between $500-$700 after taxes and/or alterations. And it ticks off your boxes as far as the waist suppression, 5 button cuffs, the 3/2 roll, and it's even got the ticket pocket and wide peaks!

Most " italian" fabric labled China made suits are made- in -china - italian fabric via joinr venture fabrix mills set up in China for the Chinese wholesale consumption. Many mills do this

 

[Markus W]

Roped shoulders,
A largely suppressed waist,
5 button cuffs,
and 3-roll-2 lapel style

This is exactly what I can do for you guys. Let's ignore for a moment the double breasted style, which of course can be made as a 3-roll-2, it will look like this. It's a bit more then 1000 $ but you get a full canvas construction with a lot of handmade details. Made in Italy of course. Fabric comes from renowned mills.
You can go for an even slimmer waist but don't go to crazy or it will wear uncomfortable.