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Brand / fitting recommendation for big rear and thighs

tiger17

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My problem is.... I have the lower body of a Clydesdale. Huge rear and thighs (think Serena Williams). My girlfriend laughs when I try on "relaxed fit" jeans and they don't clear mid thigh.

Consequently, I have a number of suits and trousers that all suffer from the same "gaping pocket" syndrome. They all, I suppose for the same pocket cause, pull tight against the front as well. These are all flat front pants and it looks like my backside is wrestling valuable real estate from the front.

I have purchased a pair or two that were larger in the waist and consequently fit my hips and thighs. However, the tailor, in taking in the waist, also took fullness from the seat and I was left with the pulling up front and gaping pockets.

Questions? 1) What are some good brands to check out? 2) Would M2M help with pant fit? 3) Any alterations that I can look into to help if I get a pair of pants that is larger in the waist?

Approximate measurements may help: H: 6'1 W:220 Waist - ~34 Jacket: 42-44 (depending on brand)
 

smoothmoose

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I'm shorter but have similar problem. What are your seat and thigh measurements? And being honest with yourself is your fullness primarily form muscle mass or fat? The stats you give can be borderline either case. If it's mainly muscle mass, I should assume your seat fullness is "perky" vs. "saggy".

In any case, I think a good MTM tailor (that can change the seat pattern, angle, rise) would be a good start. FWIW, Indochino does NOT provide any good fitting options for prominent seat people like us. Tailors that I've worked with face-to-face have been able accommodate my seat fit.

When I asked around on the tailor threads, they mention you can buy pants OTR that fit in the seat and thighs and then have the seat taken in by adding additional darts above the back pockets. Not sure if that's what your tailor did. If your tailor just took in the waist by taking in the back crotch seem, then that would explain why the seat got tighter as well.
 

smoothmoose

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For RTW/OTR opinions, again not sure exactly how much larger your measurements are, but look for pants that have two darts above each back pocket. These will have a full seat fitting. The only brand I have found is Bedo here in Canada.

For jeans it's tougher, as they are not normally darted or pleated, but demin has a natural stretch to it.
 

tiger17

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Ha, "honestly," its mostly muscle and it rides pretty high. I'm at work so I'll have to get the exact measurements later tonight. I like the idea of M2M and them changing the actual dynamics of that area.

The tailor just took it down the back crotch which seems like the reason for the shape problems. Would the darts in the back take the excess off the waist and not so much from the seat area? And possibly a silly question but, could you dart the front to leave the whole back intact? And, rambling question, can the dart be added to OTR pants or does it have to be built in when the pants are made?
 
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smoothmoose

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I darting would help in the front with your thighs, but not as much in the back. In general, most pants add front fullness is added by pleats, but darts can serve a similar purpose. The pleats are a style some members here like and would definitely be helpful if you plan to buy the new Galaxy Mega smartphone and have George Castanza wallet in your pockets.

Actually here are two article from jeffreyd one of the distinguished tailors here on SF discussing these issues:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.ca/2013/03/on-gaping-pockets.html
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.ca/2013/03/fitting-jeans.html

BTW, I would not go back to your alterations tailor for MTM pants....
 
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philosophe

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I don't know what your budget is, but I would suggest checking with an old-school shop like O'Connell's in Buffalo for odd trousers. The trousers will be a fuller cut.

I concur with the posters above that your tailor didn't do the right job. Darts are the solution.
 

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