Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by STYLESTUDENT, Mar 29, 2005.
Thanks for the link; there are some very good articles. I didn't realize that a gentleman must have at least four umbrellas.
Then sir, you may not be an English gentleman.
He seems to endorse everything, so its not really much of a critical review. Though, I love this line:
"Recently, I was shocked to observe - in the Paris Ritz, of all places - a well-suited young man with two buttons on each cuff left undone (one must suppose, deliberately). Â This is simply not on. Â Such vulgar ostentation is very definitely not Savile Row. Â The point is that the cuff buttons can be undone, not that they are"
Good point [London Lounge members take note].
Uh, do we want to take clothing advice from someone who goes out in public dressed like this?
More adventures in bespoke... http://www.cosmos-club.org/journals/2002/muromcew.html Grayson
To be fair, sirgarnetwolseley, that image was taken from a visit to Interno 8 where the fellow was intentionally pushing himself to stray from the conventional Savile Row look.
He looks like Dan Rather's gay gaucho brother.
True. I register only a mild objection to his surreal neckwear. People should feel free to experiment. It is the shirt that horrifies me; a button-down collar with french cuffs? That is the outside of too much.
Are you really supposed to have braces buttons on the outside for the front? That seems wierd to me. Seems like they should be in the inside both in front and back.
Braces buttons were originally on the outside all around the waistband. Most tailors moved them inside in the last fifty years, but you can still have them placed outside if you wish.
The argument for wearing them on the outside is that you don't have the buttons cutting you (no-one sees them since you never remove your jacket).
I thought brace buttons moved inside the waistband as vests became more and more rare. Most office workers do remove their jackets, after all.
Buttons moved inside the waistband where they could be less comfortable as men began removing the jackets of their unvested suits. Then, except for a few anglophiles, men stopped wearing braces altogether.
As to the (im)propriety of office workers removing their jackets, doesn't it deserve its own thread?
His experience with bespoke seems close to that of other forum members that the journey--i.e., fittings, selections, adjustments, etc.--is the point and the actual garment is often anti-climatic. Certainly, the pictures are of either "dandy" costumes or of ordinary clothes. Maybe, it's his physique doesn't flatter his bespoke garments. His overcoat makes him seems as though his next job will be a doorman at a downscale hotel. But he shows so much personal happiness with the bespoke process even if the results underwhelm some of us.
Why? If one keeps his coat on, no one will see his braces.
Re: that shot of the tie. There was also a shot like that (wearing two or three ties at once) in a recent BBC doc. on the Cambridge spy scandal of the 50's, Burgess & Maclean, etc.
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