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Both canvassing and fusing in a suit?

josepidal

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Does anyone have any experience with tailors who say they use canvas AND fuse suits? What kind of quality is this?

(I read this but am still confused by the tailor: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000020.html)

I went to what appears to be the most expensive tailor in Manila (and the only one to stock good English and Italian wool). The strange thing is that they said they make only fused suits because the fabric bubbles or doesn't return to its original shape when bent or creased. Upon further questioning, though, they said they do have canvas or horsecloth in between the fabric and the lining. They showed me a suit right after a customer' first fitting and opened a corner to reveal the canvas underneath.

I asked my bosses and acidboy on this forum, and have determined what are the best tailors in Manila. Family, business and finiancial constraints prevent me from going to Hong Kong and getting a couple of suits from Chan and a dozen shirts from Jantzen. Now, I need at least one sport coat for a business trip to Singapore at the end of the month.

The tailor I mentioned is the one one closest to my office and they offered to make a sport coat for about $140 for just labor, or about $260 for one made in a fabric I liked from Zegna.

I was thinking to make a workhorse blazer out of a bolt of rougher Scabal fabric I have using this tailor, and I have a list of suggested specs from Manton. Unless it seems better to borrow a suit jacket from my Dad and try to have a suit and a sport coat made in Singapore.

Suggestions?
 

whoopee

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I suggest having it made in Singapore, btw.
 

josepidal

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Oh, now I remember that old m@t thread. I wonder how this local tailor might do a floating canvas piece... might be dangerous.
 

Jovan

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Frankly, I suggest you look for a better tailor.
 

josepidal

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I know, I know, and I'm scratching my head here.

Um, this place is like supposed to be the best in the entire COUNTRY already, recommended by my firm's founding partner.
 

dah328

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All suits have canvas through the chest. It's a question of how the canvas is attached to the lapels and chest of the jacket. In a fused jacket, the canvas is glued. In a "fully-canvassed" jacket, the canvas is stitched. The jacket is Matt's thread is the result of a tailor who has no idea what he's doing.

If this place is supposed to be the best in the entire country as recommended by your firm's founding partner, then I wouldn't consider your firm's founding partner very credible on the subject of men's tailored clothing.
 

josepidal

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I'm not trying to defend the place, but from what I've seen, it really IS the best in the entire country. I think I will agree with you that no one in this tropical country knows anything about suits to begin with.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.8%
  • Half canvas is fine

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    Votes: 23 10.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.6%
  • Depends on price

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