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Borrelli Sports Jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by newtrane, Oct 27, 2004.

  1. newtrane

    newtrane Senior member

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    Gentlemen, I would like WWChan taylors to make a Sports Jacket in the style of the jacket on the pic below: [​IMG] I am not very knowledgeable in bespoke tailoring. - Can I just show them this picture and they will make a jacket like the one on the picture?
     
  2. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    You can certainly show them the picture.

    I would think twice about the patch breast pocket, though, but
    if you really like it, enjoy.
     
  3. newtrane

    newtrane Senior member

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    I very much like the silhouette of the jacket.

    How would it be characterized in tayloring terms (gorge, waist, shoulder, lapels etc) - I am very eager to learn.

    Thank you very much in advance.
     
  4. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    I think we need Manton here, but I'll try


    Gorge: High gorge with what looks like 90 degree notch

    Waist: slightly nipped (tapered)

    Shoulders:Appears to be soft and natural with no rope

    Lapels: rolled to first button. Medium width.
     
  5. newtrane

    newtrane Senior member

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    Millerp: Your help is very much appreciated - Thank you. Here is another jacket I like very much: [​IMG] To me, this jacket is very similar to the one above (except for the pockets) - Is this correct?
     
  6. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    This is great education for me as well. Thanks so much.
     
  7. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    Seems similar

    Shoulders seem a little more structured but that
    could just be the angle of the camera shot.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Show him the picture, but in general:

    High gorge, moderate width lapels, two roll to three button, high button stance, Neapolitan shoulder (natural shoulder with high armholes,) moderate waist suppression, slightly longer than normal skirt.
     
  9. tdial

    tdial Senior member

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    Atlanta, GA
    Yep, I agree with what's been said:

    High gorge.
    Slightly higher button stance (it appears from the pics, and that is certainly the case with my Borrelli jackets).
    3 button, lapel rolled to second.
    Slight waist tapering.
    Soft, natural shoulder. (this does not mean "unstructured" but a softer structuring).
    High arm holes

    Here's the key with the high holes--tapered arms. I think for the look, you have to have tapered arms with the high arm holes and more natural shoulders.

    Get double vents, and I would advise leaving out the patch pockets. Why? Though I really like patch pockets, they aren't as flexible to wear. You really shouldn't wear them "dressed up," whereas with the flap pockets you can dress up or more down, as it may be.
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think the two are bit different.

    First coat: extremely high gorge.  Notice the mid-point of the notch, the trough of the "v" as it were.  Imagine a line that horizontally bisects the notch.  Notice how that line goes right through the top of the sleevehead, right through the point where the shoulder ends and the sleeve begins.  That's the idea you want to convey.

    Hard to tell, but I would say: natural shoulder, on the deltiod (i.e., no extension).  It looks to me like a very slim coat.  Not a huge amount of waist suppression, because overall the coat is so slim that it doesn't need it.  Very open front below the waist button.  "2 1/2" or "roll through" button stance.

    Second coat: slightlly more built-up shoulders.  Looks like a thicker pad.  Shoulder looks a bit extended beyond the natural line.  Gorge is a fraction lower.  Slightly swelled chest to balance the extended shoulder.  Lower button stance (but both are quite high); buttons closer together.  True 3-button stance (i.e., short lapel roll).  More of an hourglass waist.

    I agree with LA Guy that both coats look a little long, which is somewhat unusual for a Neapolitan silhouette.

    Personally, I like the first coat better, but it will be harder to copy.
     
  11. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    Milano
    I agree with Manton and the first one is better, sporty with externally applied pockets, maybe the second one is more "extreme" in the waist suppression. First one is better also in the rolling of lapels and better fitting sleeves attachment.

    The cut is neapolitan, except perhaps shoulders on the second one.

    High gorge, notch 90 degrees looking to shoulders. Also high waist.

    Darts are ending on the pockets, but usually in neapolitan jackets they go through them to the end of the jacket.

    I see a longer skirt than usual, a feature that some neapolitan tailors use with a very high waist (Marigliano for example).
     

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