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Borrelli shoes

johnnynorman3

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I'm going to be putting some Borrelli shoes up for auction on Ebay in the next few days, and I had some questions about the construction. I have heard -- and assume -- that the shoes utilize a Norweigan welt. Is this correct?
 

kabert

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I have always thought of Norwegian welts as being used on work boots and hiking boots, not fine Italian dress shoes. But I'm no expert in these matters.
 

johnnynorman3

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Kabert, perhaps I had heard incorrectly. What I see for sure is that the shoe has hidden stitching (channel stitched, I think is the term), and the layer of leather on the bottom that hides the stitching has been "hand tacked" all the way around.
 

Lomezz

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check out this link - Norwegian Norwegian welt is indeed used in boots to repel water - the upper is 'turned out' as opposed to tucked in, such that water are better repelled  (it's easy to see in the link provided) However, it is often used for aesthetic effect - think Lattanzi. In most cases, it is easy to spot as the thread used is often of contrasting color and quite thick - see for example Heschung
 

jcusey

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As far as I know, Borrelli shoes are made by Santoni to the tan-sock "Fatte a Mano" standards. I believe that there are some Borrelli Norwegian-welted shoes, but they certainly aren't all Norwegian-welted. Here's a picture of a Santoni Norwegian-welted shoe from Jun Kuwana's website:
 

johnnynorman3

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Ugghh. No the shoes I'm selling definitely don't have that kind of stitching on them. IMO that is heinous. I feel really bad about my confusion then.

I don't know where you heard that Santoni makes Borrelli shoes. I am actually almost certain that Borrelli makes everything in house, including shoes. That is the impression that Naturlat gave in his post re: his visit to the NY Borrelli store.
 

jcusey

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Ugghh. No the shoes I'm selling definitely don't have that kind of stitching on them. IMO that is heinous. I feel really bad about my confusion then.

I don't know where you heard that Santoni makes Borrelli shoes. I am actually almost certain that Borrelli makes everything in house, including shoes. That is the impression that Naturlat gave in his post re: his visit to the NY Borrelli store.
I chose the picture I did because the stitching patterns are so easy to see. They're not all like that gaudy. If you look at your shoes, the same stitching (although not as garish) is present. They're Norwegian-welted. The fact that the model is called Norvegese cinches it.

As for the maker of the Borrelli shoes, I read somewhere either on this forum or the Ask Andy forum that they were Santoni. Based on what I saw at the Borrelli store in May, I can believe it. It's possible that they're manufactured in-house, but it's a lot harder for a shirtmaking expert to expand into producing shoes than it is to expand into producing tailored clothes.
 

A Harris

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What size?? If they are 13's you'd better PM me
 

Steve B.

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Then you could PM me...
 

marc37

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Ugghh. Â No the shoes I'm selling definitely don't have that kind of stitching on them. Â IMO that is heinous. Â I feel really bad about my confusion then. I don't know where you heard that Santoni makes Borrelli shoes. Â I am actually almost certain that Borrelli makes everything in house, including shoes. Â That is the impression that Naturlat gave in his post re: his visit to the NY Borrelli store.
Santoni are contracted by Borrelli to make their (borrelli) shoes. Yes: Borrelli shoes are made by Santoni. l'm not sure whether Santoni makes them all, but l do know Borrelli's are made by Santoni. Quite afew people know this. http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Forum....hpage=1
 

naturlaut

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Actually, my post you referred to was from a long time ago. Back then, Borrelli had 30% stake in Mantellassi, so Mantellassi was making shoes for them (I might have posted that information back then, but I can't remember).

Borrelli is relatively new in the market for shoes (a bit 'older' than Kiton, but still new). Regarding the shoes you have, it would help if you could post a picture. These makers that we are talking about are quite distinctive; most of us here could tell from a few pictures on the crucial parts of the shoe.
 

T4phage

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JohnnyNorman3;

From the looks of the shoe that you posted in the Buying-Selling section, they look like they were made by Stefano Branchini  because:
1) nailing on the soles, and the way the sole looks.
2) type of laces, especially the way the ends of the laces are unfinished after the leather tassels.
3) style of norwegian welting.

They do not resemble any of my Santonis (norwegian), but they resemble my Branchinis in technique.
 

bengal-stripe

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There is "Norwegian welt" and there is "Norwegian construction".

A Norwegian welt is stitched on from the outside, right through he uppers, while a classic welt is stitched underneath to the feather. (Alden uses a Norwegian welt on some of their heavy "Barrie last" shoes. Note the row of stitching that holds the welt in place.  In a Storm welt (split-reverse), the (thicker) welt is split halfway horizontally; the underside is stitched to the feather in the conventional way while the upper side is turned up to form the storm bit.

Norwegian construction is quite similar to Veldtschoen construction; the uppers are turned out to prevent water penetration.
 

T4phage

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Here are some Branchini pictures that make me think that your Borrellis are made by them:
 

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