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Borrelli MTM collar

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Geronimo, Nov 5, 2004.

  1. Geronimo

    Geronimo Member

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    I was wondering what collar choice was the most popular among Borrelli MTM customers on this board. My choice was the "William", which is a half spread and somewhat long. It looks nice with a jacket but somewhat out of proportion without. I was told that it is the most popular collar in the NYC boutique. BTW, I feel that borrelli offers a large choice of collar (see all the collars at www.luigiborrelli.com) What is your favorite Borrelli collar?
     


  2. jcusey

    jcusey Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I typically order Paolo or, for a change of pace, Livio, although I have some RTW Carlo shirts.
     


  3. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    I like the ones with shorter points.
    Milano, Carlo, Marco, fabio
     


  4. newtrane

    newtrane Senior Member

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    How much are Borrelli MTM shirts?

    Thanks.
     


  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    I believe they start at 400 and go up...and up....depending on the fabric.

    koji
     


  6. jcusey

    jcusey Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    As Koji wrote, it depends on fabric. It also depends on where you order them, I suspect. Even with the depreciation of the dollar vis-a-vis the euro over the past couple of years, I'm still quoted a price of around $335 for the basic fabrics, and it goes up from there.
     


  7. newtrane

    newtrane Senior Member

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    Thank you for your answers.

    I am thinking about buying some Italian MTM shirts in the near future - I am not sure if I should go with a big name (Borrelli, Kiton) or if I should try a smaller taylor (Margutti, Barba).

    - Quality of fabrics, production and customer service has first priority.
    - I do not care about brand names.

    What would you recommend me to try?

    Thank you very much.
     


  8. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    Naturlaut had a very nice shirt made (MTM) by Margutti. I could post some photos if you're interested.

    koji
     


  9. newtrane

    newtrane Senior Member

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    I would be very interested - Please post the pics.

    I have a couple of 7-fold ties from Fabrizio Margutti. They are very well made and the fabrics are fantastic.
     


  10. jcusey

    jcusey Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I have ordered MTM shirts from Kiton and Borrelli.

    Kiton has a nice selection of extremely expensive fabrics, some of which are very interesting. I had heard horror stories from my retailer about Kiton MTM shirts taking 9 months to deliver, but I ordered a couple anyway. In my case, I believe that it took about 8 weeks. The shirts that I got were very nice and fit well, but I don't think that I'll be a repeat customer. I don't think that the hand-sewn side seams and sleeve seams serve any purpose other than to drive up the price, and even the thickest of Kiton's collar linings was still too insubstantial for my tastes. I also didn't really like the unpolished MOP buttons that are a Kiton signature. On the plus side, the pattern matching at the sleeve placket and the side seams (both shirts were checked) was the best that I've ever seen (none at the shoulder because they have the Neapolitan puckered shoulder), and the fabrics feel wonderful. They're obviously well-made shirts, but the value just isn't there. They were extremely expensive, and I think that I can do better for a lot less.

    I've done a whole lot of Borrelli MTM over the past few years, so it should be obvious that I like them. The fabrics that Borrelli offers are high-quality, although most of them are very conservative (it may be different at the NYC store). Still, even fabric that seems ho-hum on the swatch card tends to make up into a stunning shirt. Borrelli customer service has been spotty at best. I've had orders disappear into the ether, and there was that time when they had run out of the fabric that I ordered. They didn't bother to tell my retailer what had happened. They just never delivered the shirt. I see on their website that they promise 4 week delivery times. I've never experienced that. Six weeks is the best that I've ever seen, and it has been considerably longer than that in some cases.

    The Borrelli people have recently blamed these problems on their US representative, who apparently was recently fired. We'll see if service improves as a result. Over the past few months, Borrelli has made a couple of changes to their shirts that I'm not entirely happy about. One is that their button edges are now reeded instead of smooth, and I think that this will tend to tear up the buttonholes with use. The other is that their side seams are now considerably wider than they used to be. What can I say? I like extremely narrow side seams. In any event, the shirts are rising in price enough that I'm beginning to consider other options. I really love the shirts, but I think that I can do better for less elsewhere. It's where that elsewhere is that I'm uncertain of -- quality shirts in Houston is a daunting proposition.
     


  11. Geronimo

    Geronimo Member

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    Jcusey and al, thanks for the reply.

    Jcusey would you mind sharing your cost on most shirt, also do you order at Nieman?

    NYC boutique gives a 6 weeks delay, however I find it to be longer like 8 to 10 weeks. Price is around $400 for a simple white fabric to $600 for a linen/cotton.
    At the NY boutique, fabric choice of the permanent collection was rather large but very conservative. However I was offered some fabric from the seasonal collection (my guess is used on new RTW collection) and also the Royal collection which was a large selection of blue high end fabrics. I noticed that some of the regular collection fabric were as good as the "Royal" and was told that it was not in the "Royal" because the Heir of the Italian throne had not selected it. Another Marketing gimmick that was somewhat a turn off.
     

    My experience with Borrelli in MTM was excellent. I ordered a dozen shirt and I was satisfied with the quality, finish and remarkable fitting for a MTM.  My only other experience with MTM was Ascot Chang which was good but not superlative.
     


  12. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    My one foray into MTM shirts was a white Kiton (riva) that only took a month, so I guess I got lucky.

    koji
     


  13. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    Margutti pics: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  14. arvi

    arvi Senior Member

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    this Margutti looks great..are they available rtw in new york city?
     


  15. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    Not to my knowledge; he got this shirt made in Rome, I believe.

    koji
     


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