Boots Boots Boots - For Boot Guys Only

[Shouldaville]

The trouble with Vass is that their handwork is at times sloppy, at times clean, especially with hand-sewn aprons and welts. It's like a gamble sometimes and I wish they'd have consistency in this regard as the uppers are already so clean.

Just take another look at this green pair's stitches and you'll see what I mean. Sure, people on the street won't notice or even care, but we do -- and finishing is one way to rank makers.

I've seen a few Vass calf shoes and boots with similar stitching issues. Oddly, the aprons on the shell models usually seem to be much more precise. Maybe the more experienced staff handle the shell models. Or, it's the same guy and he does calf on Monday mornings.

 

[Zapasman]

Yeah, may be my man did not get too much sleep, but to be fair, most of the issues with Vass comes from shoe fitting and returning policy is great. And for the prices we pay here (or at the shop) nobody can expect to have a JL shoe finish/upper leather. Vass has some other good values. It is not a bespoke atelier.

As said, each maker has its own pros and cons.

 

[sleepyinsanfran]

I've seen a few Vass calf shoes and boots with similar stitching issues. Oddly, the aprons on the shell models usually seem to be much more precise. Maybe the more experienced staff handle the shell models. Or, it's the same guy and he does calf on Monday mornings.

i think there are issues with the shell models as well sometimes. for example, when you posted your osloers, I was amazed at how low the apron SPI was on my own (larger sized) pair bought last year, compared to yours ... so it can be hit or miss regardless of material I think (and you're a lucky guy haha)

edit - forgot to echo zapasman's sentiments: "As said, each maker has its own pros and cons."

 

[Zapasman]

i think there are issues with the shell models as well sometimes. for example, when you posted your osloers, I was amazed at how low the apron SPI was on my own (larger sized) pair bought last year, compared to yours ... so it can be hit or miss regardless of material I think (and you're a lucky guy haha)

edit - forgot to echo zapasman's sentiments: "As said, each maker has its own pros and cons."

Shell is tougher and harder to work compare to calf. I have the Alden norwegese #8 style and the apron is stiched at much lower SPI. I understand that is one of the problems with shell. Other issue commented in SF is about the 6 SPI that Vass uses for the welt/outsole sewing. Not at all a problem for me either

 

[VRaivio]

...and let's not forget that shell cordovan is a very expensive material. I'm sure all smart shoemaker shops won't let trainees or younger makers sew aprons as the material costs may turn hefty if something is torn or pierced, and the pair must be re-made.

Just for reference, I feel Bontoni's makers have the most skill in hand-sewing aprons among all RTW factories:

https://instagram.com/p/z5BZ9Gl5dh/

These are the golden standard to me. Vass is rough, but their roughness suits casual pairs well.

 

[dddrees]

Yeah, may be my man did not get too much sleep, but to be fair, most of the issues with Vass comes from shoe fitting and returning policy is great. And for the prices we pay here (or at the shop) nobody can expect to have a JL shoe finish/upper leather. Vass has some other good values. It is not a bespoke atelier.

As said, each maker has its own pros and cons.

This is the type of discussion that I would actually like to see more of here on SF. As you say I think there are pros and cons for every shoemaker and very often this does not get discussed. Sometimes you'll see where someone say Vass for example is hand lasted and welted. This maybe true as well as they have an easy return policy. However honestly what are the negatives with this maker?

For example Edward Green tends to have less quality issues from what I have experienced but lately their finishing hasn't been up to par in my opinion when comparing to last year. Also their wait times can at times be problematic and things of this nature.

Just honest forthright comparisions of various brands and not only the shoe or boot themselves but other types of things customer support as well.

I would also like to see more discussion somewhere between specific styles like the black dress oxford thread where comparisons are made of specific styles like the Adelaide, split toe, or whole cut. I'm not sure these specific shoes would warrant their own thread like the black dress oxford but I think these comparisons would be invaluable as their are some of us looking for the ultimate example and not necessarily just the same brand.

 

[dddrees]

Thank you for responding. I've done business with Ron in the past (MTO boots years ago). He's awesome to deal with.

It sounds like I'll need to look elsewhere for boots of that sort though. Can you tell me how to best go about getting Vass boots? I've never owned any Vass but they have caught my eye.

There are basically two ways of purchasing a Vass shoe or boot that I know of and one is through a retailer and the other is through Vass themselves. I'm no expert by any means as I have only purchased one Vass shoe to this point and its been through a retailer. I'm sure there are plusses and minuses for choosing one over the other but my preference generally is through a retailer and this has always been the case regardless of the make of shoe I purchase. Besides at the time I did it from what I had read it was kind of quirky buying directly from Vass. I'm not sure what the experience is like now as this may have changed. Previously I think the only way one may have been able to purchase directly from Vass was via a bank wire unless you purchased directly while physically in the store.

Anyway I purchased mine through Ascot Shoes <[email protected]> and I can certainly vouch for Sammy and they also have an Ebay presence. A number of SF members have chosen this method. If you check ebay and conduct a search for Vass shoes most of the Vass shoes tend to be offered via ascotshoes.

I would highly recommend popping over to the Vass thread and checking things out there. These are the guys you want to hang out with to see what they recommend. Also I would highly recommend taking time to go through this whole thread before buying anything or asking your first question. Although you maybe able to pop in and get the answer you need, if you take time to go through the entire thread as time consuming and sometimes boring as it maybe you have a much larger base of knowledge to work with before you purchase your shoe or boot. Often people don't know everything they should ask and often one or two people don't always provide you with everything you should know. But if you take the time to go through the entire thread you'll have so much more information to work with.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/130044/the-ultimate-vass-footwear-Appreciation-thread/0_100


Good Luck,

Dan

 

[fiercekrypton]



I'll preface my collection with some background info. I am a grad student at SCAD Atlanta and I make my living as a sculptor. This means I do everything from welding, forging, pouring 2000+ degree metal, and plenty of clay and foam sculpting while wearing various boots. That said, I also enjoy going out to cigar bars, clubs, and gallery shows. So my collection is a little extreme, I have red wings that take the toughest blow from bronze pours but all my boots other than my Daltons and Michael shannons take a beating.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

After taking these pics I realised just how neglected my red wing steel toes were and spent some time on em,today.

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[fiercekrypton]

 

[fiercekrypton]

Here is them before. Can I use regular sole dressing on a rubber sole ?

 

[manasdirge]

all that wonderful boots, but sadly they won't look good on short guy like me

 

[wengxiah]

all that wonderful boots, but sadly they won't look good on short guy like me

how short

<1.60M?

 

[manasdirge]

5'6"

 

[ecwy]

My contribution to the thread - 3 Enzo Bonafe boots

 

[TtownMD]

Very nice