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ecworks

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ShoeMart responded this morning regarding the stains/splotches on my new Alden captoe shells, they offered to send me a return label to arrange an exchange or full refund. I asked them if they would consider a discount and we then can walk away as friends. They are considering this. The only wrinkle is that I've already tried them on so there are folds and wear marks on the sole. That voids their restock policy according to the card included with the shoe. Interestingly enough this same card is signed by the person who inspected my boots and approved them for shipment. So I'm kind of at their mercy for restocking or refund at this point. On the upside, these boots fit amazing! Better than any shoe/boot I've purchased from Alden via ShoeMart. Could be the last (Grant), maybe this is the perfect Alden last for me.

And in the sun it has a gorgeous reddish/eggplant color/patina. If you go with the 9 eyelet route be prepared to spend some time getting these things on and laced and removing them as well. Those aren't called speed hooks for nothing!
Shoemart responded this morning and offered to send me a label to ship my boots back to them for evaluation and possible replacement. I've worn them several times since they arrived (which technically violates their restock policy) and I think I can work out the blotches on my own. In reality you don't really notice them in person, but the camera really sets up a contrast in the image that makes them really stand out. And the fit is amazing. I wasn't really expecting them to be so comfortable. I've taken several 1 mile walks around my neighborhood at night with the new boots and they are awesome in fit and comfort, especially around the heel cup. Grant is my new favorite last.

So the final resolution is that I countered with an offer: Send me a pair of Alden trees and some Alden cordovan shoe creme and we'll call it a deal. They agreed and shipped them out this morning.
 

kudos

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I recently bought a pair of cordovan shell boots and I'm having an issue with the right boot only. When I walk the flex point on the boot where my toes are digs into my toes/foot. They are cap toe boots so I'm not positive if this is normal break in type thing or not. I know shell has a reputation for being a pain to break in so I'm hoping it's just a time thing and it will go away. The left foot feels great and I have other boots on the same last and size that are very comfortable (CXL not shell though).
 

jischwar

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Shoemart responded this morning and offered to send me a label to ship my boots back to them for evaluation and possible replacement. I've worn them several times since they arrived (which technically violates their restock policy) and I think I can work out the blotches on my own. In reality you don't really notice them in person, but the camera really sets up a contrast in the image that makes them really stand out. And the fit is amazing. I wasn't really expecting them to be so comfortable. I've taken several 1 mile walks around my neighborhood at night with the new boots and they are awesome in fit and comfort, especially around the heel cup. Grant is my new favorite last.

So the final resolution is that I countered with an offer: Send me a pair of Alden trees and some Alden cordovan shoe creme and we'll call it a deal. They agreed and shipped them out this morning.
Solid resolution!
 

basu13

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Tricker's Stow vs. Carlos Santos Brogue Boot showdown
So I happen to have recently purchased two similarly styled boots and thought I'd do a little head to head.

What I got
Tricker's Stow in Green MC, 9UK, 5 Fit, commando sole, Last - 4497S
Carlos Santos Brogue Boot in Acorn, 9UK F, Danite sole, Last - 333

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Build
Weight: Tricker's 1lb, 15.5oz; CS 1lb 9.5oz
Leather Thickness: Tricker's 1.4mm, CS 0.9mm
Price: Tricker's 275 GPB, CS 145 GBP, Both on sale/clearance from AFPOS

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Weight, price and leather thickness are it for the objective categories the rest are my subjective impressions. I'd say overall build quality the Tricker's wins but the gap isn't huge and price will factor in. The areas of similarity in construction are in SPI, general clicking and QC (both are better that Allen Edmonds from a QC standpoint and s bit less than Grant Stone from my small sample size. 6GS, 4 CS, 2 Tricker's and well over 50 AE)
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Tricker's has more precise alignment where panels overlap. Both have similar welt joins on these two examples, both are storm welted. While this may vary depending on leather used both of my Tricker's on Manchester Calf (MC) have an overly heavy application of black polish IMO that isn't needed. As can be seen in photos the leather appears to be similar in grain size with the Tricker's being substantially thicker. This is going to vary substantially based on the type of leather used. As a point of comparison AE calf is 1.3mm-1.5mm for calf and GS Chromexcel is 2.5mm with Kudu being similar. The difference in thickness lends a feeling of the CS being of lower quality but it really depends on the purpose of the boot and I feel these two boots have very different purposes even if they are similar in style. It does look like the MC leather on the Tricker's will show creasing more than the leather used on the CS boot and the CS boot will break in faster due to thinner leather.
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Where the Tricker's pulls ahead for me is in the detailing; this can be illustrated best in this shot of the heel of the boots. There is just more detail, stitching and reinforcement compared to the CS boot. The tongue on the Tricker's is gusseted and less likely to flop to one side or let in water compared to the CS boot. The lining on both is soft and well stitched. The Tricker's uses a non-rolled collar lending to a more casual style.
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Fit
The fit between the two boots isn't dramatic. Both are 9UK and I would probably be best suited with an 8.5UK (9 to 9.5 EEE in most AE and 9 EEE in GS). I have a wide flat foot and I am just under 9 EEE left and just over 9 EEE right on a Brannock device for reference so YMMV.

The heel on the CS boot is narrower which I prefer and the instep is also a touch higher which I greatly prefer. My main issue with a number of shoes and boots is instep pressure. As can be seen in a number of the pictures below the Stow is wider than the CS Brogue. I'd say it is as wide or wider than an AE 9.5 EEE on the 511 last
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AE Dalton in 9.5 EE US (8.5 UK). Could only attach 20 pictures so trust me the stow is wider than the CS and on par with the AE above.


View attachment 1741802
Stow vs GS Brass boot in 9EEE

Looks/Style
These are both very attractive boots if made for different purposes IMO. The Carlos Santos brogue is on a sleeker last than the Tricker's; it has smaller eyelets, laces, rolled collar and a more svelte Danite sole. Whereas the Tricker's Stow is more rugged, more substantial, round laces, bigger eyelets and a thick commando lug sole. While I think you could pair the CS with some flannel trousers if not a suit the Tricker's to me feels more at home with denim, cords, or chinos. I like them both and will wear them for different occasions.

Value
This is probably the biggest differentiator. Both on sale the Tricker's is almost twice the price of the Carlos Santos. Value for me is highly weighted category so I find CS wins here dramatically. That's not saying I would not purchase more Tricker's as I like a number of their styles but they most certainly would need to be on sale.

Small things like shoe bags and a shoe tree from CS and just the boots for Tricker's widens the value gap as well. I'm sure a good bit of this comes down to location of manufacture, for me I don't care that much where a boot is made as long as it is made well.

Thanks for reading.
Nice post and thanks for taking the time out to create this. Having exclusively worn the Stow and Grant Stones for the past 6 months (my only boots), the CS field boot leather does indeed feel much thinner and lighter. From a different perspective, the CS boots lend themselves well to a business casual/sport coat/chinos setting better than the Stows.
I am hoping that the "lighter" build of the CS does not detract from its longevity and ability to perform in usual day to day rough use.
 

Genericuser1

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Nice post and thanks for taking the time out to create this. Having exclusively worn the Stow and Grant Stones for the past 6 months (my only boots), the CS field boot leather does indeed feel much thinner and lighter. From a different perspective, the CS boots lend themselves well to a business casual/sport coat/chinos setting better than the Stows.
I am hoping that the "lighter" build of the CS does not detract from its longevity and ability to perform in usual day to day rough use.
I don't think it should although I'd prefer a thicker leather. Doc Martens if memory serves are just as thin and unlined and I've kicked the crap out of several pairs with no issues.

Also with my rotation and collection I can't imagine they would. I should see what my boot to shoe ratio is at some point. Probably still have more shoes with sneakers and boat shoes.
 

JUAN MANUEL

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A boot from Sanders, bought from A Fine Pair of Shoes, very comfortable, the round toe box and the protuding welt give lots of character to these boots. Eventough they might look heavy, the proportions of the vamp and the toe cap reduce the heft.

Model: Craig
Last: M265
Material: Waxy suede
Welt: 360
Sole: Ithside Commando Studded Long Sole (looks like Dainite)

I am not sure how to take care of this leather (waxy suede). If is suede I will apply Saphir Invulner but if is waxy leather some dubbin. Any suggestions?

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Afinepairofshoes

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A boot from Sanders, bought from A Fine Pair of Shoes, very comfortable, the round toe box and the protuding welt give lots of character to these boots. Eventough they might look heavy, the proportions of the vamp and the toe cap reduce the heft.

Model: Craig
Last: M265
Material: Waxy suede
Welt: 360
Sole: Ithside Commando Studded Long Sole (looks like Dainite)

I am not sure how to take care of this leather (waxy suede). If is suede I will apply Saphir Invulner but if is waxy leather some dubbin. Any suggestions?

View attachment 1743336 View attachment 1743337 View attachment 1743339 View attachment 1743345 View attachment 1743347 View attachment 1743348
Hi Juan - great that you like the Sanders Craig Waxy Suede boots, their whole range is also fantastic. Advice from CF Steads on re-waxing is "In terms of re-waxing, any natural wax/ dubbin should be fine. I tend to use a mink oil or a beeswax based product." Hope this helps. Julian @ AFPOS
 

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