Boots and dress shoes

[Res]

I have been looking at brands for quite some time and have come across many high end not well-known, overpriced and fairly decent priced brands.

While I do have a reasonable budget of $400 - 500 USD, I am caught in between marketing and facts. I have looked at brands in my price range, such as Carmina, Cobbler Union and Shoepassion. Though I would like to get those more experienced users to advise me on other brands that I should give a look at and consider. I am looking to purchase a pair of Chelsea boots and Cap Toe oxfords.

What I am looking for:
Must be Blake rapid construction or Goodyear welt.
Not a must, but I would love invisible channel stitching.
High density stitching, one thing I do not like about Allen Edmound's, the stitching looks brash.
Oxford: No bulky shoes. Is it possible to get a slim silhouette with a Goodyear welt? Essentially a shoe with more shape and smaller heel / tighter the upper

What I have gathered from known brands:
Ace Marks - Purely marketed and over-hyped shoes.
Paul Evans - Overpriced for what its worth.
Allen Edmound's - Immense quality control issues that need to be addressed.
Meermin - A cross between Ace Mark's and Paul Evans.
Ferragamo - Overpriced.
etc..

Please, I am open to all recommendations.

P.S.

What is the best site to buy shoe accessories from, such as polish/brush, trees and everything in between.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

A touch over your budget but you may want to look at Crockett & Jones.

 

[Panama]

Testoni has concealed stitches in
Sacchetto Bolognese construction at your price point.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I think he only wants Blake and GYW.

 

[Res]

Well, I'm looking for any brands that make use of Blake Rapid. Although the Sacchetto construction looks really interesting.

A touch over your budget but you may want to look at Crockett & Jones.

Is there any better place to purchase Crockeet & Jones, besides their site?

Also, might you know why all these boots from quality brands I'm encountering have rubber outsoles instead of leather?

 

[ovlov]

Well, I'm looking for any brands that make use of Blake Rapid. Although the Sacchetto construction looks really interesting.



Is there any better place to purchase Crockeet & Jones, besides their site?

Also, might you know why all these boots from quality brands I'm encountering have rubber outsoles instead of leather?

Crockett & Jones has a lot of online distributors. There is often one or two stores at any time with sales that may come within your budget. You just need to do some hunting. When you referred to a narrower oxford, i'm not sure if you mean more more contemporary lasts. in which case you may want to look at GJ Cleverley's George Cleverly range which is actually made by C&J but often use more contemporary lasts which you may prefer. They would be outside your budget but I have seen some on sale recently on Mr Porter and Ebay.

Regarding rubber soled boots, I think it is just a matter of most boots being considered more casual outdoor footwear and hence both from an aesthetic and practical standpoint people prefer them to have a thicker sole. The boots can still be resoled though if they have been good year welted.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Also, might you know why all these boots from quality brands I'm encountering have rubber outsoles instead of leather?

what is it with Blake Rapid that you’re so hot for?

Regarding leather vs. rubber/synthetic, I wouldn’t say most are the latter. Each maker offers a variety of both, at least in their RTW range.

If you’re opting for made to order, you can certainly specify which you prefer. I have both. I can tell you that with a synthetic sole, like Dainite or Crockett & Jones’s City Sole, gives you more options in foul weather.

 

[norcaltransplant]

English:
Trickers (still good quality?)
Alfred Sargent
Joseph Cheaney
Crockett & Jones (search for shoes under different labels such as Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren)

Italian: Favors blake contruction, less weight, and more comfortable in the summer.
Gravati
Barrett

French:
Paraboot

Spanish:
Carmina
Yanko (quality varies)

FYI, my first nice pair of shoes was from Moreschi purchased via Arthur Beren in SF

 

[Phileas Fogg]

^ I would add Heschung under French as well. Incredibly functional boots.

 

[Panama]

I think he only wants Blake and GYW.

He obviously hasn't gone down the rabbit hole enough. Oh I spoke too soon.

 

[Res]

Crockett & Jones has a lot of online distributors.

They do list their online stockists and there aren't any physical retailers that carry Crockett & Jones near me..

I checked out MrPorter, thanks, though the options are limited. Do you know any other brands that resell Crockett & Jones? The only other I could find was Matthew Dack in Canada.

When you referred to a narrower oxford

I was referencing the frame itself, slim and not clunky that is known with a GYW.

what is it with Blake Rapid that you’re so hot for?

I've only ever owned Blake constructed shoes and a while back I have seen GYW shoes that were awfully heavy and clunky, which I realize it could be specific to the manufacturer, and so I thought something in between would be perfect. In came Blake Rapid, good construction, light weight, slim profile etc..

Regarding leather vs. rubber/synthetic, I wouldn’t say most are the latter. Each maker offers a variety of both, at least in their RTW range.

If you’re opting for made to order, you can certainly specify which you prefer. I have both. I can tell you that with a synthetic sole, like Dainite or Crockett & Jones’s City Sole, gives you more options in foul weather.

I am skeptical of trying MTO as this is my first purchase and haven't garnered enough experience to go that route.. yet.

What I do is get leather soles and attached topys to the bottom and if they get worn out I easily replace them. It's funny most manufacturers I've come across have the perfect last and patina on a rubber soled shoe instead of leather.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I've only ever owned Blake constructed shoes and a while back I have seen GYW shoes that were awfully heavy and clunky, which I realize it could be specific to the manufacturer, and so I thought something in between would be perfect. In came Blake Rapid, good construction, light weight, slim profile etc..

That's a fair enough point. I think you might just have an easier time finding GYW vs. Blake Rapid. Some of it does come down to brand as well. It depends on what you're looking for.

 

[Panama]

That's a fair enough point. I think you might just have an easier time finding GYW vs. Blake Rapid. Some of it does come down to brand as well. It depends on what you're looking for.

Pediwear may do Spanish made Blake/Blake rapids...

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Pediwear may do Spanish made Blake/Blake rapids...

Rancourt uses Blake construction as well.