Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by westminster, Sep 21, 2012.
Any thoughts on Boglioli Jackets, How do they fit? Quality?
I love them. I have two of their washed cashmere jackets from 5 or 6 years ago, and they're great. Good fit, construction, and fantastic fabric and buttons.
I don't have a jacket, but I had considered getting this one. He dropped the price when he relisted it, still not sure how practical it is
Boglioli K's are much nicer than the 'main' range.
They seem very nicely made in person. I just have a problem with many of them coming with surgeon's cuffs.
Can you explain the K range? The jackets I have looked at have K-Jacket on the inside.
I know there have been a lot of questions on Boglioli jackets in the past too, I've had a lot of these jackets over the past 10 years so I think I can help.
Their trademark line, Coat, started in the 1990’s as neo-Italian take on Neapolitan tailoring; they made the jacket slimmer due to fabric and construction and used a special “tinto in capo” (garment dyeing) process to give the jacket a vintage look…basically responding to trends seen in jeans and shirts at this time. Worn in. Distressed. Coat is their mainstay, and in many ways the zenith of their production and obsession with materials, especially cotton, and recently more with linen and silk.
Due to the success of this, Boglioli started to experiment (pre-wash, dyeing, etc) with other fabrics like (combed) cashmere and wool…and the K Jacket was born (2003 I believe). For the most part, I think the construction of these two jackets are pretty similar, although almost always I like the touch of a K Jacket more…it drapes better, it possesses that tactile sensation that you can’t quite put into words but you understand…I love them. And I hear Boglioli doesn’t make a big distinction between the two but I think there is.
Boglioli also has a standard label for some of their partnerships (with Guabella, tailors, department stores other than Barneys’ who they make a Coat and K Jacket for) which is all over the place. Whereas most Coat and K Jacket lines have very little or no shoulder padding (“senza spallina”), spring/summer editions usually have no canvassing (but still wonderful structure I might add), these often have more padding in shoulder, often don’t have working buttons, and are often fully canvassed. I’ve even seen one that was fused, which I think was a bad move, to put their name on the jacket. I also saw a cardigan-blazer in textured cotton that was absolutely amazing. But in nonrefundable situation I would not take the risk.
There are a few other lines, Dover and Wight which came in late 2000’s I..the wight concept was for Japan and was based on a total unconstructed form. The Dover was a bit more constructed and formal or elegantly styled…but sometimes in Jersey. So still no real structure to the line. Both these lines are discontinued and but have become Dover 2G line (which I have not seen).
Basically, I think anything outside of Coat and K Jacket can be a little experimental- can be amazing but often a bit off. A lot of people dismiss Boglioli as a trend or casual jacket, but if you look at the construction, attention to detail…it’s really a kind of revolution in jacket making. I travel a lot and my Isaia, Zegna crossover, Luciano Barbera’s don’t hold up as well as this. There is a real beauty and practicality to a prewashed distressed material...
^^ Very helpful post. I have two Boglioli jackets. Onc is a "Coat" model. It is completely unstructured in a washed cotton/linen blend. It drapes beautifully. Construction and fit are very nice. I have another mainline Boglioli navy blazer in a lightweight cotton. It has some canvasing but retains the incredibly soft neopolitan shoulder. The only words of caution I would have, and perhaps someone like G. Landi can add more to this, is that the fit of the two jackets are very far apart. The Coat model fits like a typical--albeit slightly slimmer--42R. The shoulders on the mainline blazer are spot on but everything else is on a much smaller scale. It fits smaller than most 40Rs I've tried on. Very slim through the chest and waist and VERY short.
Hair canvas does not react well to being dyed or washed so practically none of this type of garment, from any maker, will be canvassed (their more sartorial stuff is fully-canvassed). It's also much lighter to fuse it, and the goal is generally light and soft- the fusing doesn't really affect the hand of the cloth, since these unstructured coats are usually made in very round, spongy cloth. Boglioli uses amazing cloth and does really neat treatments. I'm wearing a K jacket from Boglioli today- it's super light and comfortable. Very trim, very high armhole, narrow sleeve.
This. Bogliogli jackets seem to be very short. I tried on several jackets recently and even the long sizes are fashionably short. Everything else was perfect. But the length? Barf.
I just picked up a Boglioli K Jacket in cashmere jacket from Barney's on sale, and I'm super impressed. To this point I had only worn their spring/summer collection, but I'm blown away from the quality on this one. I don't know what they did to pretreat the cashmere...it's not as soft as some, but it feel like you can really wear it, travel with it etc and will not change the look or feel over time. Jeffreyd is right and it has not canvassing, but great structure...love it.
I agree that the Boglioli mainline jackets are all over the place...some are amazing, others not so much. But the K jackets are really killer.
Thanks for the informative posts. I have not owned a Boglioli before, but I am currently looking at this one from Frans Boone:
You can see more here:
This is a special make-up for Frans Boone. I really like the fabric. He says that the fit is very much like the K jackets. I do notice that it is cut a little fuller in the chest. This is drape, no? And its a good thing? Does it still work with everything else unstructured?
Beautiful jacket...I had an Isaia in that color, it's super versatile but alas it was destroyed last month by Sandy (basement flooding)...just clothes though.
Have you tried this jacket on in person? As I mentioned above, I find that anything outside the Boglioli internal Coat of K Jacket (or even the discontinued Wight, Dover or Dover 2G) lines to be all over.... From the picture it seems to have a bit more padding in the shoulder (K jacket typically has none) and some canvassing...it doesn't appear to me at all like a K jackets I have.
From Boglioli mainline, I picked up and amazing jacket from a partnership with Marino Botique in Foggia, Italy (size 50) that was fully canvassed...and loved it. I've also had only great things to say for the Barney's/Boglioli jackets (52) and Guabello (52). However, some of the jackets designed for Bergdorf and Isetan I felt were pretty bad...one was even fused. So I would say you should try on any Boglioli that isn't part of their standard lines.
For K Jacket and Coat I'm happy to buy directly off ebay/online and I've never had a problem
Sorry to hear about your Isaia SC. I hope the other damage wasn't too bad.
I have tried on a similar jacket, and I have confidence that Frans' measurements are accurate. I don't think this one has any padding or structure, but it is just a little fuller in the chest. I think the quality looks great; I just have to decide what I think about the fit. Where some see drape I see lapels bowing. But that may just be something for me to get used to.
can someone comment on their Dover jacket?
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