Body vs. Suit Style

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, Jul 11, 2006.

  1. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    I was looking at a picture of myself that I took to send to Chan for use in future suits, for them to use as a guide for tweaks and stuff. On my Chan suit there is not a lot of padding in the shoulders. I have rather fat cheeks -- I'm not a fat guy, say 5' 10" - 5' 11" and about 175-180 lbs. But I've always had fat cheeks. Anyway, what stood out in the pictures was that my head looks freaking huge in proportion to my shoulders and chest, kind of like a cement block perched atop a pencil. I'm wondering if Brioni style shoulders would work better for my body style to put my chest and shoulders more in proportion to my fat head.

    As an aside, my Canali suits don't do this. Are Canali suits cut in more of a Roman style a la Brioni?
     


  2. horton

    horton Senior member

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    i'd consider slightly on the wider side suit lapels and more spread on shirt collars, perhaps.
     


  3. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    i'd consider slightly on the wider side suit lapels and more spread on shirt collars, perhaps.


    The spread on the shirt collars makes it look worse. THe most I can get away with is something like the "simi" sic spread collar jantzen has as its No. 3 style. more than that just nakes my face wider. But the problem is not in the shirts. They look fine.
     


  4. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Canali has similar shoulders to Brioni, with less of the extreme waistedness. So yes, if you like the way your head looks in Canali, then the stronger shoulder is probably going to be good for you. The Sartorialist shot something along the lines of "the benefits of a strong shoulder" a couple of months back, you might want to take a look. His point in the composition was balancing a relatively large midriff, but the point still stands.

    Tom
     


  5. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Canali has similar shoulders to Brioni, with less of the extreme waistedness. So yes, if you like the way your head looks in Canali, then the stronger shoulder is probably going to be good for you. The Sartorialist shot something along the lines of "the benefits of a strong shoulder" a couple of months back, you might want to take a look. His point in the composition was balancing a relatively large midriff, but the point still stands.

    Tom


    Tiger I'm glad you mentioned the part about lesser waist supression. My Canali suit jackets have, to go with the stronger shoulders, lesser waist suppression, and that just looks better on me. Next Chan I do is gonna have stronger Roman shoulders and lesser waist suppression.

    Anyone know if Patrick does that kind of suit passably? He might grumble a bit about it.
     


  6. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Whoopee posted pics of a double-breasted suit Chan made for him that was a significant departure from their house style although I don't know that I would consider it Roman.
     


  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Flusser's "Dressing the Man" has a section on shoulder size/head shape you might find helpful.
     


  8. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Whoopee posted pics of a double-breasted suit Chan made for him that was a significant departure from their house style although I don't know that I would consider it Roman.

    If I recall, Whoopee's suit had some extreme waist supression. Looked good on him, but don't think it would work on me, because I'm a bit chunkier.
     


  9. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Yeah, I was mentioning it more as an example of a Chan suit that was a significant departure from their house style. I'm considering asking them to make some significant silhouette changes for my next suit, so it's of interest to me, too.
     


  10. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Yeah, I was mentioning it more as an example of a Chan suit that was a significant departure from their house style. I'm considering asking them to make some significant silhouette changes for my next suit, so it's of interest to me, too.

    I meet with Patrick on July 19 and I also plan to ask him for a silhouette different from their house style, which I got with my first suit. I really like Brioni, but don't know if they can do it. I think I'll wear my Oxxford Crest and ask if they can replicate that look. I like the roped sleevehead, but the silhouette is not so distinct as Brioni.
     


  11. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Let us know how it works out. I will probably wait until their next trip because I'm still deciding on the silhouette I want.

    dan
     


  12. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Canali's shoulder is pretty heavily padded. I think that is that you're looking for.
     


  13. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Canali's shoulder is pretty heavily padded. I think that is that you're looking for.

    I agree. In my experience, most Canali suits have fairly heavy shoulder padding and, most importantly for Stu, shoulders that extend slightly beyond the deltoid. This will broaden the shoulders and give a more balanced look to a man with a larger head.

    Edit: AFAIK, Canali suits are a Milanese silhouette, not quite Roman, not quite Neapolitan.
     


  14. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    AFAIK, Canali suits are a Milanese silhouette, not quite Roman, not quite Neapolitan.


    Sort of a happy medium? That sounds good. I've worn Canali for years and love the way they fit me. Some time I'll try a Brioni, which I'm sure would look good too.
     


  15. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    You might want to go too NM's mtm department and get their input the best suit shoulder for your body.
     


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