Body Types and Suit Styles...weigh in everyone

[Fritz]

I’d say that this whole question is a bit more complicated than just the four body-types. For example, I am moderately v-shaped, which would suggest natural, unpadded shoulders. However I have a large head, and I need to be careful that too small a shoulderline doesn’t make it look huge. So that is something I need to balance to create an overall pleasing look.
The question of cultural context also needs to be considered: For suits I prefer single-pleated pants. They make sense for me, because I have runner’s thighs and a bit of a hollow back. But I have a whole bunch of pleated odd trousers which I bought for casual (evening) wear without a jacket that I never seem to wear. In a world of flat-front it just doesn’t feel right. So now I’m considering buying flat-front trousers, just haven’t gotten around doing so yet.

 

[cpac]

Ok, I'll play (though you'll probably tell me I'm doing parts of it wrong, and then I'll disagree, but here goes

I'm 6'5", slight V.

Jacket:
1 - slim brittish cut, soft shoulders
2 - length - the only length - just enough to cover my butt
3 - suppressed waist
4 - either, though mostly notched as I don't do DB, and peaked are "in" now and will necessarily be "out" soon.
5 - high gorge
6 - single breasted,
7 - 3-button (buttoning the top 2)
8 - double breasted - who knows? I don't really wear them
9 - I'm tall, and yet I do things that accentuate that tallness. It works for me.

Pants

1 - I cuff if there are pleats, otherwise, not.
2 - only have 1 pair of flat front suit pants, but like the look and will probably stick with that going forward
3 - double reverse, or single forward.

 

[damonallan]

Great stuff. Thanks I almost forgot that the softer natural shoulder works best for the "V" and I do agree that this exchange can be more complicated but I think that great learning and questioning can come out of this.

Having said that, when I talk about balancing a body type, shortening, lengthening, widening etc., it is really up to the individual's ideal. So what cpac is saying is great. He doesn't mind his height and he therefore embraces it. A lot of peole I know that are very tall or very short are concerned about looking the opposite because people often comment on their height...

Also a good note. We don't all fall into one body type category...there is some cross over. You'll notice that I didn't put in the hourglass body type. Unless you've removed a couple of bottom ribs, men don't often fall into this category.

 

[damonallan]

So let's say I'm very tall and I am considering wearing a single breasted suit. I am sometimes torn about which button fastening works best to help and individual look shorter.

Consider the man is wearing a regular necktie, spread collar, half-windsor knot, solid navy suit, normal cut with slight waist suppression.

What do you think would best shorten the man and conversely add height and why?

1, 2, 3 SB. Let's consider for simplicity that the button stance is "normal".

Some people would say that by showing more of the shirt and it's furnishings, this creates a horizontal line or break in the overall look vs. a three button single breasted which shows less. Would that suggest that the 2 Button of 1 1 button would shorten the overall look or would that work the opposite with a longer lapel line. Where's the balance in answering this question?

Thoughts?

Thank you

 

[Tck13]

Originally Posted by damonallan

So let's say I'm very tall and I am considering wearing a single breasted suit. I am sometimes torn about which button fastening works best to help and individual look shorter.

Consider the man is wearing a regular necktie, spread collar, half-windsor knot, solid navy suit, normal cut with slight waist suppression.

What do you think would best shorten the man and conversely add height and why?

1, 2, 3 SB. Let's consider for simplicity that the button stance is "normal".

Some people would say that by showing more of the shirt and it's furnishings, this creates a horizontal line or break in the overall look vs. a three button single breasted which shows less. Would that suggest that the 2 Button of 1 1 button would shorten the overall look or would that work the opposite with a longer lapel line. Where's the balance in answering this question?

Thoughts?

Thank you

WTF?

A three button suit would make the upper body more proportionate and help the man by not making him so "lanky" up top.

Either that or a higher button stance but since that is not an option...

A one or two button suit will show more shirt and tie adding to the already prominent vertical line.

Edit: There are exceptions to this but I just used this example for simplicity.

 

[jml90]

In the books they never really gave much specifics but that it was blue with a crisp white shirt skinny black silk knitted ties and black casuals.

 

[damonallan]

Originally Posted by Tck13

WTF?

A three button suit would make the upper body more proportionate and help the man by not making him so "lanky" up top.

Either that or a higher button stance but since that is not an option...

A one or two button suit will show more shirt and tie adding to the already prominent vertical line.

Edit: There are exceptions to this but I just used this example for simplicity.

Cool. Does this pic even make sensein terms of describing 3 vs 2 buttons vs 1 button SB. Forgive the simplicity. Which one looks taller and does your answer offer evidence to the reality?

[/IMG]

 

[NewYorkBuck]

Ok - for me

O - V - Pear - and Straight or rectangle - Slight V

Now thinking about this, let's start with the jacket.

(1) What cut - British
(2) Length - Moderate
(3) To suppress or not to suppress waist - Moderate
(4) Notch or peak lapel - Notch
(5) Higher sitting or lower sitting gorge of the lapel - Higher
(6) Single Breasted vs Double breasted - Single
(7) What type of single breasted - 3 button roll at top
(8) What type of double breasted
(9) What if the person is a tall or short of a particular body type


Now how about the pants

(1) To cuff or not to cuff (height issues) - Cuffs
(2) Pleats or no pleats - PLEATS
(3) What type of pleat - Two, reverse.

 

[whoopee]

The higher stance 3 button 2 coat heightens. The 1B is also more elongating than the 2B, if it is cut correctly (same buttoning point). A lower set 2B, or 3B with only centre button closed are less heightening.

 

[Dapper Dandy]

Originally Posted by damonallan

You'll notice that I didn't put in the hourglass body type. Unless you've removed a couple of bottom ribs, men don't often fall into this category.

Actually, to some extent I'd say I have an hourglass body type. I do a lot of lifting for my lats and chest, so I'm pretty big up top. I get smaller until you reach my natural waist, I'd say I go from a 41-inch chest to a 31-inch natural waist. But I don't wear my pants at my natural waist, and from my natural waist down to where I wear my pants, I get a little bigger (I believe this is commonly referred to as "love handles" or "beer belly"). I'm not saying I balloon back out to 41 inches, but just above my hips is probably 34 inches or so, maybe only 33. At any rate, am I weird, or do other people get slightly bigger down from their natural waist? Obviously, I'd love to maintain the V shape all the way down, but that's a complaint for another day...

 

[whoopee]

I get bigger from the natural waist down. Not by much, but noticeably. I think it's common for trimmer and fitter bodies.

 

[jml90]

Originally Posted by jml90

In the books they never really gave much specifics but that it was blue with a crisp white shirt skinny black silk knitted ties and black casuals.
Jesus Christ I thought it said Bondtypes

 

[breakfasteatre]

Im 5'5"-5"6", 135 pounds or so, pretty athletic body, now i have never owned a suit in my life, and if anything, i would like to go into a tailor knowing some idea of what size jacket i should be getting

i know this is a pretty vague question considering the info i have given you, but any information would be helpful to give me a better idea to get into this

 

[whoopee]

You need to fiind your measurements. Chest and waist to start. Shoulder length, overarm, inseam, hips can come later. But ask your tailor for these figures when you get measured and commit them to memory.

 

[breakfasteatre]

Originally Posted by whoopee

You need to fiind your measurements. Chest and waist to start. Shoulder length, overarm, inseam, hips can come later. But ask your tailor for these figures when you get measured and commit them to memory.

thanks for the quick reply to such a vague and unanswerable question

im looking at a chart right now and it looks like i should be a 38 chest but beyond that, yeah i guess i would have to actually go to a tailor and get measured up