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Blazer too short after having it altered?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Jan_, Mar 13, 2011.

  1. Jan_

    Jan_ Senior member

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    Berlin
    Button the middle button - it is quite common on 3 button jackets to button just the middle. I do in any case habitually.

    Usually I button just the middle one, here I tried to make up for the missing length. With just the middle one, I think something looks more wrong than before. (see below)

    Could be. [​IMG]

    I was going to suggest a trick my tailor once tried for me on an L-length jacket that had a high button stance. He raised the pocket flaps about 3/4", so that they still covered the pocket opening, but gave the jacket better balance. It seems like a small adjustment, but having the flap that little bit higher worked to bring the shortened jacket back to a better proportion.

    Very good idea. Thanks.

    Yes, the best buttoning point would be between the top two.

    I don't know. As a newbie, I do not possess the keen eye for the details experienced members have but looking at it there's a feeling of something not right about it - a sort of nagging discord.

    Exactly this is what I think. Since many of the rules are aimed for delivering a pleasent appearance to the common fellas, I guess most people will notice but can't say--in opposition to the expert--where the problem is.

    Anyway, here are some additional pictures, this time only with the middle button closed.

    Pocket flaps turned inside:

    [​IMG]

    Waist taken in a bit (with the help of clamps in the back):

    [​IMG]

    There are possibly issues with the area around the top button, so I guess my first take with buttoning the top two was better.
    However, I'll take this opportunity to see what can be done with this blazer to rescue (of fvck up) as much as possible.
     
  2. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Nope. Proportions are too off. Sorry.

    Laypeople will probablynotice. But! You could go for the Black Fleece look.
     
  3. Jan_

    Jan_ Senior member

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    Nope. Proportions are too off. Sorry.

    Laypeople will probablynotice.


    That's what I think, too. Anyway, I'll ask my tailoress about putting the pocket flaps higher and take the waist and chest in, I just wanna see.

    You probably mean this. This looks a bit like for the catwalk. But why not...
     
  4. hammer07

    hammer07 Senior member

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    Definitely better with the flaps tucked in and I think most people probably IRL won't notice apart from that taking off 3" makes it look quite short on you. Next time 1.5-2" might be better. If you want to find a jacket you can trim down a little more than 1", look for one which has the pockets set a bit higher, a higher buttoning point, and the vents a little longer than usual as the one you have now has a pretty low buttoning point IMO.
     
  5. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    You probably mean this. This looks a bit like for the catwalk. But why not...

    Yes! But people buy the stuff!
     
  6. Jan_

    Jan_ Senior member

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    Definitely better with the flaps tucked in

    I manipulated yesterday's picture and put the flaps 75% higher than they are. I think it looks a bit better now:

    [​IMG]

    It would be interesting to research into common perception. I couldn't find in my literature anything (based on empirics) about how people actually perceive the fit and proportions of clothes and what attributes they associate with the wearer. I'm not thinking about something complicated, just making a kind of an A/B test and showing people different pictures with good and bad fit. Well, that's for another thread...

    Yes! But people buy the stuff!

    I'm fine with it. So accidentally I could even become fashionable. [​IMG]
     
  7. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    yup looks a tad too short. still wearable though as most people probably won't notice

    +1. Not quite right, but 99% won't know. However if you feel self conscious about it, give it away and move on.
     
  8. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Senior member

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    ...It would be interesting to research into common perception. I couldn't find in my literature anything (based on empirics) about how people actually perceive the fit and proportions of clothes and what attributes they associate with the wearer. I'm not thinking about something complicated, just making a kind of an A/B test and showing people different pictures with good and bad fit. Well, that's for another thread...
    ...


    This would make for possibly entertaining material. Video record this research[​IMG]

    Most people would just stare at you with a quizzical look as you ask them about "the balance" of the jacket. As for length, maybe some men will say its short, but only because the jackets they are wearing are too long, including the sleeves.

    Most people IRL perceive how a wearer clothes fits by comparing the wearer with Bradd pitt, ESPN announcers, or any other public figure associated with wearing suits and or jackets.

    People on SF use the people on WAYWRN as their measuring stick.
     
  9. Jan_

    Jan_ Senior member

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    Most people would just stare at you with a quizzical look as you ask them about "the balance" of the jacket. As for length, maybe some men will say its short, but only because the jackets they are wearing are too long, including the sleeves.

    I wouldn't ask them about fit. I'd ask them about what they think about this guy's social/economic status, whether he's credible (political statement, expert's opinion, ...) a.s.o., the A/B-testing would then show to A and B the same people with the same statements but with different outfits (some well-fitting, others are not).

    So would I be judged different with my short blazer and a better-fitting SC? Am I more credible than the guy with the sleeves that are 2" too long and the trousers with a more-than-a-full-break? My hypothesis is that there are differences that can be measured.
     
  10. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Senior member

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    ^...
    I see. If you start with a null hypothesis, this actually would be an interesting sociological study (even if there are similar ones). We sort of take it for granted that clothing act as signifiers of status and "prestige." The neat thing about sociological studies is that they reveal such tacit things through empirical evidence. I'd be interested to know what females ages 21-29 think of the fits and styles of fellow SF'ers [​IMG]. A study between internecine subjects (i.e. all businessmen who claim to wear Conservative Business Dress) would also be interesting to compare with other demographics. Have you any sociological background? I was a humanities major, so these things always pique my interest.
     
  11. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    My tailoress cut off 3" from this blazer's length. NewYorkRanger once said that 1" is the maximum and anything beyond destroys the coat's balance. Could be true... Unfortunately I was so surprised when she said she can take more than one inch that I forgot to protest and let it happen.

    (I know that the shoulders are a bit wide and don't comment on the shirt's collar or the tie, I just put it on quickly for the picture.)

    So, what do you say? Too short? Are the buttom button and the pockets too low?
    And if yes, still wearable?
    Could it help to take the waist in a bit?

    Merci for your opinions.

    [​IMG]


    I think it makes you look a little taller than you are. You're around 5'7-5'10?

    The jacket does look short and does throw the balance off a little, however, I don't think it is that noticeable.

    Cheers
     
  12. hammer07

    hammer07 Senior member

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    I manipulated yesterday's picture and put the flaps 75% higher than they are. I think it looks a bit better now:
    The placement of the pockets that high looks a bit funny to me as they were already set above the level of the last button. I would just go with the flaps tucked in.
     
  13. alexanduh

    alexanduh Senior member

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    any other parts of the jacket that could be taken in? proportions arent exactly fixed with waist suppression. might be better to start new.
     
  14. Jan_

    Jan_ Senior member

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    We sort of take it for granted that clothing act as signifiers of status and "prestige." The neat thing about sociological studies is that they reveal such tacit things through empirical evidence.

    I read some books and studies about that (sociology of fashion, e.g., there), but what I'd like to have are hard facts, numbers. Most of the studies are more qualitative and focus on cultural context, stratification and semiotics.

    A true scientific mind...

    Social simulation.

    I think it makes you look a little taller than you are. You're around 5'7-5'10?

    5'7. Making me look taller was part of the plan.

    The more I experiment with it, the more do I see how I can hide the obvious. Wearing dark(er) trousers and keeping the blazer open helps a lot.

    The placement of the pockets that high looks a bit funny to me as they were already set above the level of the last button. I would just go with the flaps tucked in.

    You're probably right.

    any other parts of the jacket that could be taken in?

    Chest and waist, shortening the sleeves (again).

    Anyway, tomorrow I deliver the last row of pictures (taken in the wild).
     

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