• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Epaulet x Styleforum Alpine Loden Collection

    Loden wool, woven in Tirol for centuries, is known for its resistance to cold and wetness. Our project in collaboration with Epaulet introduces Alpine Loden, a modern 18oz fabric blend of 75% merino wool and 25% nylon, woven in Italy. It's lighter, more durable, wind-resistant, and more comfortable than traditional Loden fabric. Partnering with Rochester Tailored Clothing, we offer custom garments like sportcoats, suits, and overcoats, made to your specifications. Learn more about the Loden collection here.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Blast from the past: "The Neapolitan 'Sartoria' Experience"

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
181
Originally Posted by dopey
You can't go home again, but that doesn't mean there is nothing worthwhile about life in the new place.

Alitalia aside, there is something fun about the intersection of the internet, airplanes, Naples, NY and tailoring, and the fact that it is being done by a new generation of Neapolitan tailors and a new generation of customers makes it all the more interesting.

One kind of relationship is gone, but in the old days Salvatore and Foo couldn't have been such good friends.


Hmmm. That makes sense.

- B
 

dv3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
2,088
Reaction score
3
Also missing is the fact that most of those around you do not/can not appreciate the fineness of your dress. You and the man on the street cannot share in the joy of a hand-stitched sleeve or a perfectly rolling lapel. No matter how happy you are in your neapolitan wardrobe there is a void that can only be filled at a SF meet-up or the irregular encounter with someone just as dapper.
 

Michael Ay329

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
1,585
Reaction score
54
Naples' cloth merchants should be a good source for information on competively priced tailors. Sorry I do not have contact information for any. Perhaps other members can chime in.

Michael Alden of the London Lounge might be a good start at referring you to the right person
 

Ivar

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
917
Reaction score
140
Deserves yet another bump.
 
Last edited:

Holdfast

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
10,559
Reaction score
6,354
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
There is a natural tendancy to view tailored clothes as a product or object. It is that, of course. But, what I enjoy so much about what Filangieri wrote is that he describes (somewhat romantically, but why not?) clothing as experience, process, and a social activity. No matter how much you might want it to be otherwise, it seems unlikely to me that what he describes can really serve any clientele other than what history formed those tailors to do: make clothes for discerning locals of leisure. When I read about American clients taking delivery of their Neopolitan bespoke garments without even one fitting, or stuff disappearing into Alitalia flights, I suppose that I conclude that something intrinsic and important to how the art is practiced there is missing. Maybe the objects...the clothes...are still as good. I wouldn't know. But how wonderful it must be to be a local customer of this tailoring tradition. What do you guys think? - B
You can't go home again, but that doesn't mean there is nothing worthwhile about life in the new place. Alitalia aside, there is something fun about the intersection of the internet, airplanes, Naples, NY and tailoring, and the fact that it is being done by a new generation of Neapolitan tailors and a new generation of customers makes it all the more interesting. One kind of relationship is gone, but in the old days Salvatore and Foo couldn't have been such good friends.
Hmmmm....
biggrin.gif


I don't highlight the suboptimal evolution of that relationship since that was originally posted in 2009 purely for my amusement; I think there's something important about noting it.

Many love to imagine romantic artisanal relationships and perhaps it was once true. There's no doubt the posts requoted by vox are tremendously entertaining to read. But at the end of the day ordering clothes remains a commercial relationship, and I rather think that all those lounging decadent Bourbon aristocrats mentioned in some of posts upthread would not have been so welcome to loiter around a tailor's premises if they hadn't also been very happy to part with large amounts of their money over time. I'm not convinced that's a mythic romantic ideal to be chased; it doesn't strike me as particularly different to the veneer of charm & hospitality deployed by a good pub landlord. Everyone is always welcome, provided they bring money. So what, really? I guess I prefer to reserve my meaningful friendships for those relationships without (at least, obvious) gain to be had by one party over the other by maintaining the appearance of friendship.

Perhaps it's simply unwarranted cynicism but I view bespoke orders as commercial transactions. Transactions for beautiful items, certainly, but buying something pretty doesn't make the transaction any less commercial. They should absolutely be done in a friendly, polite & open manner; that's the best way to ensure an outcome everyone is happy with. And I certainly want to feel confidence in the skill of the firm to execute the order correctly. But I can't bring myself to view it as a romantic process; this attitude probably heavily colours why I just can't be bothered to deal with the complications of international tailoring and am happy with a British firm. I am also very small-scale in my orders (generally, only 1-2 items p.a.), which I suppose also affects the nature of the relationship, though I don't think I'd view it particularly differently if I was ordering more. Mind you, if others like to project something more into their ordering I'm sure that can be very pleasant for everyone concerned; there's nothing wrong with a bit of illusion and artifice in life (another example would be the romantic overlay applied to buying jewellery, flowers or perfume). It can be quite fun . As long as the relationship continues to work well for both parties, which rather takes us back to the bit I highlighted above.

Sorry for throwing a bit of cold water onto the warm Neapolitan streets.
wink.gif
 
Last edited:

Featured Sponsor

Invisible Socks: Convenience or Curse?

  • Convenience

  • Curse


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
511,326
Messages
10,629,659
Members
225,559
Latest member
scottsanytimebailbond
Top