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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Oct 17, 2011.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are not tall enough to carry off 4 studs. since he is doing a partial fly front, it is fine.
    did you order 4 studs?
    ARE you using link style cuffs as shown above? if yes, does Geneva know this? because then the cuffs need to be made a bit tighter.

    so are you still under your $500 spending cap?
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    $500 was the spending cap for the studs alone :). The expenses of the shirt and shoes are separate matters.

    Yes, they know what kinds of cufflinks I'm using.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  3. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    He also has a DB DJ so only one or two studs would ever be visible anyway.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For what it's worth, I think two will show--based on my loose measurements.
     
  5. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    that's funny, indeed.
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why's that? Have I been known to prefer slickly-styled things? Hard to make sense of your attempted snipe.
     
  7. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    I prefer the BB/C&J take on the patent lace-up in comparison to Alden or the EG. I think EG may make another model of semi-formal shoes in a balmoral. Not a fan of blucher semi-formal shoes.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  8. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As far as I can tell, C&J makes two patent leather oxfords: a captoe and a plaintoe. If I'm going to get patent shoes, I'm going to do it 100% right and get the plaintoes. But, to my eye, the C&J patent plaintoes are no more sleek or elegant than Alden's version on the Plaza last. I think I'd have to move significantly higher up the shoe food chain to get patent oxfords that look noticeably more refined.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks. Not too flashy? I worried about that for a micro-second, then said f*ck it, I'll be a badass.


    I hear ya, but on the other hand, a pleated front is visually more fussy than a bib front, which conflicts with the streamlined look of a shawl-lapelled jacket. Honestly, I think one could go either way quite happily and correctly. Anyway, Geneva notified me upfront they could not guarantee completion of a pleated shirt in my abbreviated timeframe.


    I screwed myself a little bit by going ventless--the jacket is far more cumbersome to sit in and thus wrinkles more, which makes me wish I could take it off sometimes. However, that doesn't change the fact that vents would have been intolerably inelegant.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I endorse the bib front - looks better than a pleated one imo.

    My tux has side vents. Not the traditional way I know, but much more practical.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, I bet pleats are pain in the ass to iron right. Is your jacket double- or single-breasted? I would have gotten vents had I gone with regular peak lapels, but felt like the smoking jacket origin of the shawl lapels demanded a ventless iteration.
     
  13. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Good point. This was my train of thought. There really isn't anything worse than the C&J/Alden varieties and the next step up is a good amount more expensive. For me the C&J plain toe was the least offensive, but you can chose what works for you.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Just like yours - 4x2 shawl. The tailor didn't seem enthused, but made it with vents nonetheless. I'm happy I chose vents.
     
  15. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Are plain black wholecuts acceptable? I just think patent leather looks cheap, and pumps dont look masculine
     
  16. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Senior member

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    Just out of interest, why are ventless jackets so vilified on SF, but a dinner jacket with vents seen as 'inelegant'?

    Is it partly to do with dinner jackets being essentially timeless across decades, whereas ventless lounge suit and sports jackets put you right in the 1995 - 2005 decade?

    I know the whole evening wear debate has been done to death but I do prefer a maricella shirt over pleats (or dreaded ruffles) - why the single cuffs? Is that not at odds with your louchey smoking jackety target?
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mine's 4x1, not that it makes a difference to the vent issue. My tailor firmly refused to do vents. They weren't too happy about the shawl lapels, either.
    I've heard wholecuts are not acceptable, but don't really understand why. Perhaps the lack of a stitched vamp makes them look to casual.
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a rules issue. The point you make about the fashionability of ventless lounge suits and odd jackets reflects the more fundamental fact that vents are strictly function-oriented features and therefore less suited to more formal contexts; such garments are are more likely to be unfashionable at any given time because they are anomolous in the grander scheme of things.
     
  19. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 18, 2011
  20. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i didn't know you read my comments. i used the usual habit to write what ever i feel from my heart in a foo thread. so...

    ...no snipe, noob. i've been talking about your build.

    you have your own way, which i heartly welcome. it's better than some streamlined opportunist.

    though, you play your cards on a level you haven't reached, yet. might be subjective from my part, anyway.

    i don't feel anything bad about your person, i just chuckle about your approach to things in life. no shortcuts available, at this point.
     

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