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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Oct 17, 2011.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A black tie wedding is coming up in mid-November, and I'll be giving the Maid of Honor speech (long story), so I need to revamp the makeshift black tie ensemble I've used in the past. That means I'll be getting a proper bib-front shirt, black tie appropriate shoes, and shirt studs.

    The last of the three is my most immediate concern. I'd like to stay under $500 (well under, if possible), which leaves me with silver rather than gold or platinum. So, the questions are: what source, what design, what stone, if any? I dug around the internet and found an old jewelery/antique shop in London specializing in sivler that does bespoke cufflinks and studs. The front runner are studs in this shape, but with garnets instead of lapis:

    [​IMG]

    Here are examples of their off-the-shelf studs:

    [​IMG]

    I'm not going to bother with matching cufflinks--I'd rather avoid the cost and prefer to be less perfectly matched. What do you all think? I'm not familiar with stud-fastening mechanisms, so I'm not sure if swivel backs on these are a good or bad feature--is there a classic or preferred alternative?

    For shoes, I'm leaning on patent leather oxfords from Alden:

    [​IMG]

    I originally considered Belgian Shoes or slippers of some sort, but the Belgians don't fit me and I don't have the time or patience to mail slippers back and forth from England to figure out my size.

    The shirt will be bespoke from Geneva in New York City. Pique bib front on voile body with pique collar and cuffs. Spread, turn down collar.

    The other stuff I've already got: white barathea braces with white goatskin ends, fancy silk socks, and--of course--cream silk pocket square. Am I forgetting something?

    * For the record: I do sort of care what people think this time, but it probably won't look like it, and there is a distinct likelihood I will decide everything on my own while waiting for a cab to take me home tonight.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    It's likely that with your shawl DB, only one stud will show. That's good. Just avoid anything MoP. I approve of mismatching the dress set.

    I think that a pleated front on the shirt would fit the mood of you jacket better. Consider less spread on the collar to avoid having the points disappearing behind the bow.

    Brooks supposedly carries bowed pumps in both patent and plain calf, both made in England. Why not try them on in the store? Even if they're not as swell as the EG versions, those Aldens make me a bit sad.

    You'll make a beautiful maiden.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2015
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks. The DB DJ buttons low, though--4x1 and all. So, two studs may show. What do you think of them?

    Maybe I'll head over to Brooks on Madison tomorrow. Are the patent Aldens so bad? I'd install silk laces for what it's worth.
     
  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    not only you and +1
     
  5. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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  6. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    The studs are all fine. I think that it looks better to have a bit of contrast with them, so silver with a plain MoP face on a white shirt is not the greatest. What kind of cufflinks will you mismatch to the studs?

    The Aldens are fine and are more practical than pumps that don't fit perfectly. Try the pumps, though, since you live in the metropolis. They really do look far better.

    Oh: get good socks, especially if you go with the pumps.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2015
  7. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    I suppose "revamp" is one word.

    But how are you going to wear studs and links with a floor-length dress?

    I have gone the non-matching route myself on occasion. I find it works best when the links and studs are not too non-matching. I don't like the MOP studs either. I usually use a carnelian set. They're relatively inexpensive and that tiny amount of color in black tie punches things up while remaining tasteful.

    BTW, what is the name of the London shop you found?
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011
  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    H. Herzfield has pumps as well. And I agree - they look far smarter than those Aldens.
     
  9. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Polished up punch caps not good enough?
    Personally not a fan of studs, but if you have to what about something in plain silver like this (Not necessarily the knot)
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, forgot about Herzfeld--will definitely checkout.

    The cufflinks are from a place called M.P. Levene. Anybody know anything about them?
     
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Have you visited the Missing Link? Their selection of cufflinks and studs is unparalleled.

    Coincidentally I recently made a tux shirt too, similar to yours, except with a detachable collar and not voile. I wear an SB with vest though.

    For shoes I'm went with this EG from Leffot

    [​IMG]

    Not strictly correct, but it is prettier than other options I've seen. The best RTW i have seen (and correct to boot) is from JLP but was around $1000-1500 which is too rich for my blood.
     
  12. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Senior member

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    I've never seen anyone wear pumps. Excepting this guy, if it counts (I thought they looked... better?). Frankly, I am creeped out.


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011
  13. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    ^^ Is THAT what you guys were talking about? Wow, that's weird.
     
  14. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    Never heard of Levene. But their shirt studs seem fairly priced. I rather like this one.

    http://www.mplevene.co.uk/15174.aspx

    In fact, I am sure I have seen it before somewhere. Maybe the Tateossian on Conduit street? It was probably more expensive there, however.
     
  15. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    save time on the stud set
    http://missinglinknyc.com/ has the best selection and his prices are fair.

    Have you ever worn a voile shirt before?

    voile was great when formal wear was made from 14 oz or heavier.

    Voile is transparent.. if you take your jacket off, your friends, no matter how sartorally inclined they are, will not get it.

    I would at least use a batiste or a lighter weight b/c.

    not sure how you are going to stay under $500
     
  16. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    +1. I would've though this is one of the situations where a point collar would be better than a spread.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Settled on the stud design:

    [​IMG]

    They will be stud versions of the above cufflinks, but in sterling silver and with domed garnet cabochons instead of lapis.

    M.P. Levene is the shop, but they use one of the Birminham jewelers (Deakin & Francis, Alabaster & Wilson, etc.). I spent 15 minutes trying to go directly through one of the makers, figuring I'd save some money, but it quickly became apparent that it was going to be a costly pain in the ass. Let the shop handle it, I figure.
     
  18. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    no, just wrong.
     
  19. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    not strictly wrong. plain toe derby is on par with plain toe bal, at least in europe. i actually like yours.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not a fan of those, poorsod. A tad too slick for me.

    Just went by Geneva to get measured for my shirt--my first time using them. Details: pique bib front (ending above the waist), pique spread collar, pique single cuffs, voile body, three studs showing (other buttons hidden). I am torn on the last feature. Considering switching to a full four-stud front, but afraid the bottom stud will be at an awkward position relative to my trouser waist.
     

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