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Black Tie Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Slickman, May 23, 2012.

  1. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Please help me choose:

    C&J Wembley, will add silk laces
    [​IMG]

    Or

    ASW Patent Leather Formal Shoe
    [​IMG]

    Other suggestions?
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2012
  2. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

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    Purists would go for the latter.

    No browns for black/white tie.
     
  3. JonasAberg

    JonasAberg Well-Known Member

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    Brown shoes with black tie would just look ...odd. And to such a degree that people not normally interested in clothes would think so.
     
  4. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I don't generally like opera pumps, but you can't wear brown, so you should go with the ASW.

    You also asked for other suggestions. If the Crocket and Jones shoes above were in black, that would work.
     
  5. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Apologize for the confusion, they would definitely be black, best picture of the shoes I could find were brown
     
  6. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    First ones with a good shine.

    Opera pumps, as traditional as they may be, look fucking weird to me, and I could never bring myself to wear them.
     
  7. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    [​IMG][​IMG]




    [​IMG][​IMG]


    These are your choices, the way I see it:-

    1- the Albert pump, preferably in suede with formal black piping - this is the real gentleman's traditional choice and has been for centuries. The shoe is obtainable from various outlets, but my personal favourite place to buy them would be Gieves & Hawkes, although Brooks Brothers used to stock a C&J version until very recently. Price, around GBP 80 - 120, depending on store.

    2- Mezlan two tone patent, very elegant, very comfortable, very attractive and easy to maintain. Very practical to own and cheap. Better quality than Allen Edmonds in my opinion, but at much lower prices. This shoe is easy to obtain from Shoemart at discounted prices today.

    3- Edward Green - pricey but outstanding quality. Very traditional style for a patent leather shoe, and, of course, the 2 eyelet lace up is traditional, although not my cup of tea, it is an amazing shoe.

    4- Gaziano and Girling - this is the modern expression of a formal shoe. Stingray Sinatra or Cooper, around GBP1300 -1600 per pair they are not cheap, but these a modern gentleman's answer to the formal evening "black shine" shoe.

    Many patent leather shoes look tacky and cheap, and, if you don't want to spend a lot of money on a shoe you don't wear a lot, buy the Suede or velvet Albert slipper, and matched to a formal black tie tux trouser, you will be amazed how elegant and comfortable it is, it will be obvious why traditional gentlemen have always used this option as a standard "uniform dress" for dinner and Opera wear. It is classier than the patent leather pump, which is actually originally used as a "morning attire" rather than "evening attire"

    The second choice is the Mezlan from Shoemart because that is a very practical and very good quality shoe to own at a really good price. It looks just as elegant as the expensive patent leathers and the calf hide two tone give is a lovely formal appearance to perfectly match a modern tux.

    C&J Templar is also great and the patent leather lace up from Tim Little is another good quality buy.

    I attend a lot of Operas and formal evening events, and I use the Albert 90% of the time. When patent is "required" I use the Mezlan and everyone thinks they cost a fortune, they really do look good.

    For weddings they are perfect because they do not "crease" and are not stiff like usual patent shoes.

    Where it is overbearingly formal and patent is required I use Edward Greens or G&G stingray.

    I have owned a lot of patent shoes and formal shoes, and I would NOT buy any of them again except the above 4 or Tim little, or C&J Templar.

    Anyway, that is just my opinion.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  8. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I'm not a fan of patent or pumps but the asw formal shoes look ok imho. My only restraint with the wembley is the fact that for a little more, I could get a pair of vass which are much better made. However due to time constraints its either the c&j, alden or asw
     
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I would go for the patent pumps from New &Lingwood which is made by C&J, just much better than both.

    Please don't get black calf shoes for black tie
     
  10. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    The trouble with he ASW is the stitching pattern along the vamp. That is so non-traditional that you might as well wear a pair of polished and waxed calf hide whole cuts like the C&J Wembleys and brighten them up with a good shine using Saphir Md'Or wax.

    The whole idea of black tie is to "tone down" - I know that sounds weird, but the idea was that men should all wear understated and uniform dress with limited color and limited pattern/style. This is so that the women could flaunt their styles, colors and dress better.

    The minute you start moving towards obvious lines and highly visible patterns, like the stitching on the ASW, then you stray from the idea of the plain understated black tie/tux/formal thing, in which case, you could go for a pair of green or pink or even just a pair of those sneakers with the flashing LED lights along the sole.

    C&J and Alfred Sargent used to do a patent shoe called the "Templar", can you find a pair of those?

    what about these:-

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Templar-Patent-Leather-SHOE-UK10-ALFRED-SARGENT-RRP-190-/230565758204
     
  11. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    [VIDEO][[/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2012
  12. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2012
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wear Alden patent oxfords. Work pretty well. On the Plaza last, so the shape compares favorably to more moderately shaped EGs. Goodyear-welted for the win.
     
  14. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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  15. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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  16. jamesny

    jamesny Senior member

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    Keep it simple, no suede and preferably not patent as well.
     
  17. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Are calf plain toe oxfords with silk laces acceptable for black tie, or do they need to be patent at the very least?
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They don't need to be patent. But I don't understand the hate of patent leather around here. I think if you are going to get a pair of shoes specifically for black tie use, they ought to be patent.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I hear you, but for whatever reason I feel like patent looks cheap especially once it creases. How do you even maintain patent? Rub with damp cloth?
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you only wear them for black tie, it's unlikely they will ever crease much--but then, your lifestyle might be a lot fancier than mine. As for maintenance, Saphir sells a liquid cleaner/polish specifically for patent leather. It's what I use. Seems to work quite well at getting out scuffs and scratches.
     

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