"Black Tie Casual"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jul 31, 2012.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Fuuma-
    The lapels are too skinny for me but that seems to be kind of a thing now. Also I'll reiterate that I much preferred the vneck to the crew neck tshirt and still can't really get behind tshirts with DJs. Thank you for the pics though,nthese are helpful, and respect for incorporating a dj into casual evening attire.
     
  2. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    Regarding that medium blue suit supply jacket (or any blue jacket for that matter), what do you recommend pairing it with for pants? Black, or something lighter like khaki or cream? I suppose jeans would also work.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Jeans I'm sure would be fine although ask somebody who actually wears jeans, as I don't. Black is too severe for that jacket I think. Maybe something like a navy or really rich brown lightweight corduroy? I think corduroy is usually considered kind of a daywear fabric, but it's not unheard of in the evening:

    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/06/under-hammer-again.html

    Its cousin velvet is more traditional for evening, but velvet pants are a good deal more adventurous than cords.

    Also the jacket I linked earlier is lighter/brighter than ideal. You'd prefer something darker like this:

    http://www.suitsupply.com/blue-jacket/C472,en_US,pd.html?start=2&cgid=Jackets

    except still with some of the silk in there. This all linen though looks like a nice color for evening. Patch pockets not ideal, but whatever.

    I think in general the pants are the hard part if you're not going to wear jeans, because you've likely got a dark jacket, and you don't want to wear a suit, and lighter pants are not evening-wear-friendly (although it's definitely a possibility - I wear the velvet jacket with lighter pants too - maybe it's not optimal for the evening). So you're left with a dark/dark jacket/trouser, which is tough. The textures then have to contrast a lot.
     
  4. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

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    An outfit that Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law) wore in the film The Talented Mr Ripley at the San Remo Jazz Festival comes to mind here.

    I believe it consisted of:

    Black (or midnight blue) peak lapel SB blazer (with polished silver buttons) - most likely a lightweight wool/mohair blend
    White spread collar shirt
    Grey POW check silk necktie
    White linen PS
    Light grey lightweight flannels
    Black shoes (forgotten which style)

    Very monochrome but extremely effective at night IMO. Necktie could be swapped for a maroon or purple perhaps.

    Obviously it differs from a tux due to the metal buttons, non-satin lapels, and flap pockets so I don't think there would be too many "Are you wearing a dinner jacket?" questions.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    ^ sounds like basically a stroller though. without the waistcoat
     
  6. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

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    Surely that can't be a reason not to wear the outfit, though. I mean, 99.99% of the world's population won't have a clue what a stroller is so I don't think it matters personally.
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I definitely would NOT say that it makes the outfit INappropriate for the night. I wore a similar outfit recently:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Somehow I don't have any pics of me wearing it, but I think the same outfit with these pants instead:

    [​IMG]

    is a little better because of the absence of the light/medium grey.

    I'm just saying that this daywear association is a detracting element and somewhat at crosspurposes to trying to adopt black tie to a casual setting.
     
  8. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    The patch pockets really kill that one IMHO, even before the polyester does.
     
  10. FLMountainMan

    FLMountainMan White Hispanic

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    The looks are very.....Vegasy
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    By looks you mean the op? Vegasy like lounge singer of vegasy like club-ish? Although I guess it shouldn't matter as either one would be a fail...
     
  12. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

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    I think the open-necked spread collar with the black jacket just looks a bit nouveau-riche but I can also understand your point about a BD being inappropriate here. The only suggestion that I can think of now, taking into account your restriction on neckties, would be a roll neck sweater underneath the jacket, which seems an appropriate level of formality yet solves the untidy collar problem.
     
  13. HansderHund

    HansderHund Senior member

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    One of my favorite movies. Here's a screenshot of the outfit you're describing. Shoes were a bit difficult to make out in the scene where they enter. [​IMG]

    I always liked Dickie's clothes in that movie and it was done really well (i.e. Tom's cord jacket in the summer...in Italy).
    Here's an interesting blog post about the costume design. It's a bit slow to start, but breaks it down pretty well:
    http://fashionfilmstudies.blogspot.co.at/2010/10/talented-mr-ripley-minji-kang.html

    Here are a few other examples of Dickie's clothes:
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  14. HansderHund

    HansderHund Senior member

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    I actually like this a lot in the right setting. I think it hits your goal (if I understand it correctly) more than the second choice in that post. With this, I certainly think you could get away with some velvet slippers here. Something from Tricker's is what I have in mind.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012
  15. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting this, Hansderhund. You're right, the clothes in this film were fascinating. It looks like my recollection of the San Remo outfit was quite far off but I still think it's incredible in its simple elegance. Could you tell what buttons the SC had? No PS from the looks of it, fairly strange.

    Another outfit I've seen that I feel has some relevance to this thread is a black suit that definitely had polished silver buttons, worn by Colin Firth in A Single Man to a dinner at his friend's home. It was typically Tom Ford monochrome style but due to the night setting it looked fantastic. Although too formal for OP's needs, the use of black tie colours in a more casual outfit provided useful inspiration. Brilliant film too.
     

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