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Black oxfords; stitch cap or punch cap?

poorsod

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Stitch cap
frontview.jpg


Punch cap
birdview.jpg


I like the punch cap more but they are not as correct as the stitch cap for black tie (I go to maybe 1-4 black tie events a year). Should I get the punch cap and live through the occasional ignominy of not being in completely correct black tie attire, though few would ever notice? Or should I get the stitch cap, a more versatile but less attractive shoe?

decisions.gif
 

Gus

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It really depends upon the level of your black tie events. If they are fairly loose, then it doesn't matter (i.e. mix of wing and point collar shirts, colored or patterned bow ties , notch lapels). But if it is a classic crowd and you are going 4 x a year, I would get the right shoes for black tie as soon as you can afford them. In the meantime, go with the stitch cap and give them a fine shine.
 

Newcomer

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This may be me, but I really just don't see the point of a black punch cap oxford. Black punch cap adelaide, yes, but the punch cap black oxford just seems to sit in an odd middle ground to me. Then again, I also have an aversion towards black shoes, so my opinion may be slightly biased. With that said, i would also go with the stitch cap if you are using it for black tie. A stitch cap is not the proper shoe choice per se, and I think the punch cap would just be too far off to be appropriate.

At the end of the day, however, I really don't think it matters to anyone outside of Teh Styleforvm.

So pretty much take everything I say with more than a grain of salt.
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
It really depends upon the level of your black tie events. If they are fairly loose, then it doesn't matter (i.e. mix of wing and point collar shirts, colored or patterned bow ties , notch lapels). But if it is a classic crowd and you are going 4 x a year, I would get the right shoes for black tie as soon as you can afford them. In the meantime, go with the stitch cap and give them a fine shine.
The black tie events I go to are of varying degrees of formality. I don't feel the need yet to be absolutely correct and get pumps or plain toe patent leather oxfords.
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by SpooPoker
Are the punch caps Vass Old English?

Both pics are bespoke by Koji Suzuki. I'm not his customer but they demonstrate the chisel toe that I like.
 

tim_horton

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Originally Posted by Newcomer
This may be me, but I really just don't see the point of a black punch cap oxford. Black punch cap adelaide, yes, but the punch cap black oxford just seems to sit in an odd middle ground to me.

That's why I like them. Punch caps look good on black shoes for the same reason they look good on brown shoes. Granted, I like wearing black shoes with suits as much as I like wearing brown shoes, so I wouldn't want to wear only black stitch cap balmorals all the time.
 

cptjeff

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Punch caps are, apart from black tie, always perfectly appropriate. Hell, back in the days of morning dress black punch caps were common enough. It's just a little extra ornamentation, and for black shoes that might otherwise be dreadfully dull, it helps perk them up.

Now, it does break up the line of a shoe, so if you have a shoe made interesting by a really sleek last or something, I might skip them. But otherwise, they really add much needed visual interest while still remaining quite formal. It's not like we're talking a punchcap with medallion, or a wingtip. Those really would have an effect on formality.

But in terms of the specific shoes presented here, that last is distinct enough that it doesn't really need the added visual interest of the punch. In fact, I think that that somewhat detracts in this case. Add in the black tie demands, and you should get the plain captoe.
 

luk-cha

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if you are only to get one pair then stitch caps, simple, minimal and a classic design

are you thinking RTW or BS?
 

TheTukker

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Originally Posted by cptjeff
Punch caps are, apart from black tie, always perfectly appropriate. Hell, back in the days of morning dress black punch caps were common enough. It's just a little extra ornamentation, and for black shoes that might otherwise be dreadfully dull, it helps perk them up.

Now, it does break up the line of a shoe, so if you have a shoe made interesting by a really sleek last or something, I might skip them. But otherwise, they really add much needed visual interest while still remaining quite formal. It's not like we're talking a punchcap with medallion, or a wingtip. Those really would have an effect on formality.

But in terms of the specific shoes presented here, that last is distinct enough that it doesn't really need the added visual interest of the punch. In fact, I think that that somewhat detracts in this case. Add in the black tie demands, and you should get the plain captoe.


+1
 

Concordia

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Stitch cap now.

Once you're covered there, branch out to punch cap, balmoral, semi-brogue, what have you-- depending on what kind of suits you wear most often.
 

Ambulance Chaser

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Originally Posted by Newcomer
This may be me, but I really just don't see the point of a black punch cap oxford. Black punch cap adelaide, yes, but the punch cap black oxford just seems to sit in an odd middle ground to me. Then again, I also have an aversion towards black shoes, so my opinion may be slightly biased. With that said, i would also go with the stitch cap if you are using it for black tie. A stitch cap is not the proper shoe choice per se, and I think the punch cap would just be too far off to be appropriate.
I agree with this. I have always found the informality of punching to be inconsistent with the formality of black. Maybe that's just my OCD talking.
 

Manton

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Neither is correct for black tie.

Both are essential shoes, IMO. The stitch is more essential but the punch is nicer.
 

R.O. Thornhill

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Voted (for punch cap) before I read the question

Having read it, my answer is neither. If you go to black tie events even semi-regularly just get yourself a pair of patent leather oxfords or pumps.

For everyday business wear I do prefer the punch cap - just a little bit more interesting
 

Holdfast

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Originally Posted by poorsod
I like the punch cap more...
I'd say that's your answer. Do you actually care about whether they are slightly less suited than stitched ones for black tie (given that neither is technically correct) more than you care about which you like more? I rather doubt it. Go with what makes you happier overall.
 

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