Black Captoe Advice

[Lawman]

When I first came aboard here I had three pairs of shoes, the only dress pair being some J&M black captoes. Now that SF has converted me into a bona fide black-o-phobe, my shoe collection has expanded to fairly ridiculous proportions but, alas, there is no plain black captoe in it. I think I need to fill the void and had a question or two. First, are you rewarded with a substantial quality differential when you upgrade from, say, a C&J benchgrade to a handgrade? Or, as some have said, is a black shoe a black shoe?

Second, assuming I need to plug the hole, what should the field of candidates include? At the C&J end I have identified Whitehall, Audley (which I have in brown), Belgrave (a perf toe, of course, and one which I have in tan) and Connaught.

The Park Avenue is out for me because I really feel that the cap on the shoe is too short compared to the overall length of the shoe. If I could move the seam back an eighth of an inch or so it would be a no brainer?

The Alden captoe bal? Looks a little boring.

Budget is under $600.

Any help would be hugely appreciated!

 

[Tarmac]

This is something I have considered myself, but so far haven't been compelled to take the plunge for a black captoe. I use a black wholecut instead, so far. My thoughts: I agree, I don't like the Park Avenue. It's okay as a bargain but IMHO it doesn't look right. I think the Alden version looks much better. Their bals on Hampton last look very sharp in real life, the toe is really nicely shaped. You should check them out.

The Belgrave is great, but the perf is something you have to make a decision on, it's not exactly the plain captoe. The perfless option would be the Audley. Both the Connaught and Whitehall look better in real life than in pics. If you like the look of it, I would not pass on it the Connaught fearing it is a lowly benchgrade. It is really well made. Whitehall is very similar but on the 330 and more expensive. I think the 330 looks a little better but if you are looking for pure conservatism, Connaught is the shape you want. The Hallam is a very versatile black shoe: cheaper than handgrade, completely black and plain cap, but the shape has just enough edge to be fine with more casual clothes as well.

 

[Siggy]

Nothing wrong with good quality black dress shoes IMO, and a good black captoe is an excellent choice. I don't see much of a difference between my C&J handgrades and benchgrades. The only real differences I note are that the benchgrades are not fully leather lined in the insole and channel is not covered in the outsole. The biggest difference though is the last, since almost all handgrades are on the 337 last, but the benchgrades come in a variety of lasts.

 

[apropos]

Why not the C&J Hallam? On the extremely sleek and slightly 'fashionable' 348 last - helps give personality to what otherwise would be a rather staid shoe. Well within your budget as well - trust me, this one is a stunner in black.

 

[Eustace]

I'd go with the C&J Belgrave. I like the perforated cap personally.

 

[Imperator]

Alden captoe....my go-to shoe.

 

[jmix1]

+1 on C&J Hallam. This would be my single pair of black captoes if they came in a G fitting.

 

[bigbris1]

I figured, since I will only have one black shoe, it might as well be a nice cap toe. But since it has to shoulder the complete responsibility of the single black shoe, I would go all out with the one. So, I opted for my one Edward Green shoe to be the black cap (Chelsea). It is the most expensive (retail) shoe I own. I know your budget is $600 but think about it. BTW, I paid $200 shipped for my pair NWOB.

 

[voxsartoria]

$600? Pay $25 more for a temporary deal of a lifetime...Vass U last Old English stitch cap, complete with lasted trees and shipping to the US.

Hand lasted. Hand welted. Bevelled Redenbach soles. Great aniline calf uppers. Sweet last designed by Ugolini.

Check out Tiger02's thread.

Why settle for a lesser shoe when it's going to be your one black shoe? Aldens? C&J? AE? Say what???

Good God, if your budget is $600, the financial crisis has put the exchange rate right in your sweet spot.

...of course, all this glory doesn't mean much if they don't fit you. Can't help you there.


- B

 

[miamimc]

Originally Posted by Lawman

When I first came aboard here I had three pairs of shoes, the only dress pair being some J&M black captoes. Now that SF has converted me into a bona fide black-o-phobe, my shoe collection has expanded to fairly ridiculous proportions but, alas, there is no plain black captoe in it. I think I need to fill the void and had a question or two. First, are you rewarded with a substantial quality differential when you upgrade from, say, a C&J benchgrade to a handgrade? Or, as some have said, is a black shoe a black shoe?

Second, assuming I need to plug the hole, what should the field of candidates include? At the C&J end I have identified Whitehall, Audley (which I have in brown), Belgrave (a perf toe, of course, and one which I have in tan) and Connaught.

The Park Avenue is out for me because I really feel that the cap on the shoe is too short compared to the overall length of the shoe. If I could move the seam back an eighth of an inch or so it would be a no brainer?

The Alden captoe bal? Looks a little boring.

Budget is under $600.

Any help would be hugely appreciated!
I don't like the PA too much for the same reasons you stated. On the other hand, if you want to stay with AE, I think the Soho is a much better looking shoe. I don't think the images do justice to the shoe.

I was in the same situation a few weeks ago and was about to pull the trigger on the Sohos, when checking ebay, I found a pair of Tramezza cap toes in black (new) for less than $300.

 

[JLibourel]

I was going to suggest the Soho as an alternative to the PA as well.

 

[bigbris1]

IMHO, the Soho might as well be a J&M or KC shoe. Horrid.

 

[bigbris1]

Originally Posted by bigbris1

IMHO, the Soho might as well be a J&M or KC shoe. Horrid.

You could also try the Alfred Sargent Aldeburgh? There's some pics on here somewhere.

I have owned the C&J Connaughts & they are really nice, too.

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by bigbris1

IMHO, the Soho might as well be a J&M or KC shoe. Horrid.

What's so "horrid" about it. Most black captoe bals look very much alike to my eye. The J&M captoes don't look "horrid" to me, but I might have some reservations about their workmanship these days. I didn't know KC made shoes like that.

Or are you an adherent of the view widespread among the iGentry that ANY shoe made in Northampton is vastly superior to any American-made shoe?

 

[pejsek]

I really can't stand plain cap-toes (though I will admit that that Vass shoe is both handsome and a great deal). It's just too much like eating plain oatmeal--no cream, no butter, no whiskey. Live it up and go for just a little brogueing on the toe.