Big legs - Am I out of luck?

[themasao]

My jacket size in almost all brands I have tried on is 36 (chest 39", shoulder 18", waist 32"). I've never really put a 38 on that didn't feel a bit too big.

The problem is most suits are at least drop 6. Taking the waist out a couple inches is fine, but I also have fairly large legs (seat 39", thigh 24"). I think they call this an 'athletic' build these days? In any case, not great for a lover of suits...

Until the other day, I was under the impression most good suits would come with a reasonable amount of excess fabric in the seat and thigh. However, I have lately been doing some shopping online, on this forum and elsewhere, and am being told this is not necessarily the case, even for some top-notch hand-made brands. Of the 9 suits I currently own, the three nicest (including a Samuelsohn) had enough material in seat and thigh to be taken out, so I kind of assumed this was the standard among nice suits.

Is this brand specific? Suit specific even? I'm happy to keep looking and keep asking about excess material, but would be nice to know if I'm wasting my time.

Am I doomed by my proportions to MTM/Bespoke? Are there any options I'm not thinking of?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[papado]

My jacket size in almost all brands I have tried on is 36 (chest 39", shoulder 18", waist 32"). I've never really put a 38 on that didn't feel a bit too big.

The problem is most suits are at least drop 6. Taking the waist out a couple inches is fine, but I also have fairly large legs (seat 39", thigh 24"). I think they call this an 'athletic' build these days? In any case, not great for a lover of suits...

Until the other day, I was under the impression most good suits would come with a reasonable amount of excess fabric in the seat and thigh. However, I have lately been doing some shopping online, on this forum and elsewhere, and am being told this is not necessarily the case, even for some top-notch hand-made brands. Of the 9 suits I currently own, the three nicest (including a Samuelsohn) had enough material in seat and thigh to be taken out, so I kind of assumed this was the standard among nice suits.

Is this brand specific? Suit specific even? I'm happy to keep looking and keep asking about excess material, but would be nice to know if I'm wasting my time.

Am I doomed by my proportions to MTM/Bespoke? Are there any options I'm not thinking of?

Any advice would be appreciated.

As someone who used to have much larger legs/hips (though not small today) I certainly understand your pain. I would be in the case where I'd have to size up in the trousers just to fit my legs, even though the waist was already large as is in the standard drop 6 size.

I would agree that having room to let out the seat is not as voluminous as you may believe, especially depending on how far down it has to be let down and you therefore encroach on the crotch room as well (which there's even less of...).

Based on your measurements however, I would venture that given you find a brand which fits your build you should be fine in a 38. The drop from chest to waist is typically mirrored in the differential between waist and seat (aka chest = seat) so a 38 suit should have trousers which are around a 38 seat measurement and should be more palatable to let out to your body dimensions. I think your best bet may be to try and find some slimmer fitting/cut suits in 38 and you should have room to let out [or taper if too large] for your more built legs. Since your chest = your seat I wouldn't say your proportions are so out of wack in that area to find something OTR which fits. The more problematic issue would be the muscle mass of your The thighs/calves which could cause a plethora of fit issues. Again, I think finding a suitable 38 would work because you'll have a little more room and worst case is you can actually have them tapered/slimmed down if they are too full.

 

[Aly.B]

My jacket size in almost all brands I have tried on is 36 (chest 39", shoulder 18", waist 32"). I've never really put a 38 on that didn't feel a bit too big.

The problem is most suits are at least drop 6. Taking the waist out a couple inches is fine, but I also have fairly large legs (seat 39", thigh 24"). I think they call this an 'athletic' build these days? In any case, not great for a lover of suits...

Until the other day, I was under the impression most good suits would come with a reasonable amount of excess fabric in the seat and thigh. However, I have lately been doing some shopping online, on this forum and elsewhere, and am being told this is not necessarily the case, even for some top-notch hand-made brands. Of the 9 suits I currently own, the three nicest (including a Samuelsohn) had enough material in seat and thigh to be taken out, so I kind of assumed this was the standard among nice suits.

Is this brand specific? Suit specific even? I'm happy to keep looking and keep asking about excess material, but would be nice to know if I'm wasting my time.

Am I doomed by my proportions to MTM/Bespoke? Are there any options I'm not thinking of?

Any advice would be appreciated.

A newbie here and feeling absolutely lost as to what to do. Glad that I finally found a thread here that addresses this problem. Recently made my first two purchases of canvassed suits - an RLPL Gregory and a Corneliani. Little did I know what a disaster it would be once I try them on!
Starting with the jackets, I ordered both suits in size 40R. I have always known I have broad sloped shoulders but never knew it would become such a problem. Once I tried on the jackets, both had such deep shoulder dips as if there was no fabric in there at all. Reading through several threads, I figure it’s because the shoulders of the jackets are too small on my frame.
Now the trousers, while the RLPL ones were fairly tight too, but the Corneliani trousers fit me like speedos around thighs and calves since I have athletic legs with fairly muscular calves.
I do like how well-shaped the jackets fit on my frame overall but shoulder dips were just horrendous.
I would appreciate if anyone could recommend other brands for OTR canvassed suits that would solve this problem with some tailoring adjustments. I have been looking at some Sartoria Castangia and d’Avenza suits which have pleated trousers that I think might solve my problem since having pleats would mean more room around the thighs and the overall drape of the trousers. Am I correct in making this assumption? At the same time, I have no idea about how their suits fit overall? Any suggestions/recommendations/guidance in this regard would be much appreciated. Thank you.