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Bevelled soles on jl and c&j handgrade?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by scm996, Jul 8, 2004.

  1. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

    Messages:
    1,357
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2004
    Location:
    RVA - NYC
    When in doubt, go to the source. Thought you guys might find this interesting - from a custom shoe maker of very high quality located in Norway.
     
  2. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    Regarding the bevelled waist. The shoemaker I spent time with made a shoe with a bevelled waist. Among other things, what he did was "split" the sole from behind the ball of the foot back to the end of the sole, i.e. make the sole thinner (in the vertical dimension) through the waist than in the forefoot -- he may also have done this with the welt, though I don't believe so; since the waist area doesn't touch the ground, there is no impact on the wear/durability of the sole. He also placed the stitches closer to the upper in this region than he did for the balance of the sole, so I presume he also moved the holdfast in this region more towards the center-line of the insole (as described by Rider's shoemaker earlier). And, he trimmed the sole very close through this area and really worked hard to make the outside region of the sole reflect the curve of the upper/last.

    Regarding the fiddle-back waist. I asked the maker about this. He said he would probably use a thicker shank -- probably two layers of leather rather than one for the shank (the UK bespoke makers seem to use a leather shank rather than a wood or metal one). Then, he would skive/bevel the shank to produce a much more pronounced side to side curve. The sole is placed on the insole after having been wetted/"mulled," so it is relatively soft and pliable; therefore, it will take the shape of the shank/insole. As such, I don't believe that a higher heel is necessary to produce the fiddle-back waist. I will certainly find out when I start actually making shoes.
     

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