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Best way to keep a pocket square from sinking?

HPT704

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I've taken to cutting out a piece of cardboard in the size/shape of the jacket pocket to keep the square propped up (and even), but will this look too stiff and obvious?
 

HPT704

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I'm curious how those who keep it up with nothing manage to do it.
 

Thin White Duke

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I'm curious how those who keep it up with nothing manage to do it.
If I’m wearing a suit or blazer it’s rare I leave the house without a pocket square. A lot depends on the dimensions and material of your pocket and the dimensions and material of the pocket square!

In order to follow that Hardy Amies quote about putting on your clothes with care and then forgetting all about them, I don’t want to be seen fiddling and farting about with the thing all day long but there a couple of combinations that can be frustrating where it either sinks, or in the case of a large silk square and a small patch pocket, keeps poofing out too much.
 

breakaway01

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Size of the square obviously matters. Wool-silk or linen squares tend to stay put more readily than silk squares of the same size.
 

theparody

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Ah, this used to be a constant battle until I discovered that the fabric of the square is the most important thing. For example, Drake's makes squares composed of cotton, modal, and cashmere that are very delicate yet the fabric has enough texture to provide the sufficient tension necessary to not sink into the pocket. However, this assumes that your fold is the proper one. I use a puff fold that allows me to keep the square visible the entire day. The other lesser factor is the size of the square ie. 43 cm x 43 cm is my standard. Yet, I have smaller Simonnot Godard squares that are 30 cm x 30 cm or 18 x 18 cm that also stay visible due to the type of fold.

In my experience, if one choses silk, it is too slippery and sinks into the pocket too easily throughout the day. On the other hand, linen has too much tension and produces too much bulk that will eventually lead to the square popping out of the pocket. The solution here is again the type of fold ie. less puffy and more flat.

In summary, texture comes first followed by type of fold and size last.

Now I have a question for the board. When wearing a DB jacket, do you all struggle with a left lapel that tents up when there is a pocket square present?
 

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