Best 'value' tailors in London

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by joonian, Oct 11, 2012.

  1. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    I'm planning to get a couple pairs of odd trousers made -- tweed and flannel. I've just moved to London and my budget is on the 'value' end of the spectrum.

    I am quite difficult to fit, so I'm really looking for somewhere with an experienced and patient fitter who will give me enough of his attention.

    I've searched the forum (and London Lounge) extensively. It seems Graham Browne and Cad and Dandy are the ones mentioned most often. Chris Kerr, Costinou (sp?), Elizabeth Radcliffe are a few of the other names that I've seen. On the high end, but still off-Row and still good value for money, there's Steed.

    Are there other names I should check out? Do people know what GB charges for odd flannel or tweed trousers? I'm thinking of a medium weight tweed in a brown or green and a mid or light grey flannel. Staples, because I don't have many cold weather trousers.

    I've also seen some extremely mixed results from GB on the forums and blogs (sorry, I didn't note the links). Some people have said you need to be very specific with commissions at GB. Should I be prepared to direct them if I order something?

    Thanks.
     


  2. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    What is your max budget, we could discuss how it is 'worth' paying for bespoke trousers from a Savile Row based tailoring house.
     


  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Chan. Should be around 300 quid for good odd trousers.
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Not in UK?
     


  5. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    I think around 300 would be the budget for odd trousers. I don't mind paying more for something from the Row, but I'm not sure if I'll get the level of attention I need if I'm just making a small-timer commission of a pair of trou. What sort of prices are Row shops charging for odd trousers?
     


  6. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    GB charge about £250 for odd trousers. You might pay £700 on the Row. I have some from GB and they're fine, but yes do be specific.
     


  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Not permanently, obviously, but they stop by at least twice a year.

    Once you get the patern down, it's not as if you'd ever really need a fitting so you can order via email to your heart's content.

    The other value option is a Ryanair flight to Italy.
     


  8. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    That might well be on the cards!
     


  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I know SR would likely not make trousers to my liking so that's my preferred option.

    If you want something very English - high rise, side tabs or Daks back - then You'll definitely be better off in Blighty.
     


  10. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    What's your preferred style? I'm trying to nail down two patterns, generally, for all my trousers: a high rise, fuller cut trouser and a leaner, low-rise, almost five-pocket style.
     


  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Jon Deboise of Castle Tailors looks to be quite good.
     


  12. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    Is he related to the DeBoises at Steed and Cad and Dandy?

    EDIT:
    Just had a look at Castle's website. Jon is Edwin's (of Steed) brother. 1,750 pounds for a bespoke suit. Maybe too expensive for my odd trouser project but will definitely keep in mind for two pieces later on.

    On another note -- is it weird to wear mismatched tweed sportcoat and trousers? Especially if the pattern is different? Say, a donegal sportcoat in grey and brown herringbone trousers?
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2012


  13. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    No; however, it would depend on the pattern - a sporty jacket with a plain or almost plain looking trousers. What you do not want is two strong patterns clashing and when it comes to jacket/trouser combo, a plainer trouser would look better (there some exceptions, e.g. smoking jacket with tartan trousers).
     


  14. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    If you want the better end of MtM* as opposed to full bespoke, then I would recommend Walker Slater, the tweed specialists - their original shop is in Edinburgh, but they now have a place in Fulham in London.

    *by which I mean a Savile Row-trained tailor does take proper measurements and make observations in the same manner as a bespoke fitting, but the style options are limited and the garments are cut elsewhere, and there is usually no more than one further appointment just to check the fit.
     


  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I think that would be weird. Given the texture, even a subdued pattern tweed will stand out. That's fine when it's a tweed jacket and grey flannel trousers or tweed trousers with an OCBD and a simple sweater.

    I think mismatched tweed on tweed would be tough to pull off.
     


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