Best tuxedo for my husband?

[Sazerac]

Yes, I was wrong on the button question. My bad. I looked at both tuxes I own and there is only one button on each. But where did I go wrong on the pleat front?

 

[ChicagoMediaMan]

Originally Posted by Sazerac

Yes, I was wrong on the button question. My bad. I looked at both tuxes I own and there is only one button on each. But where did I go wrong on the pleat front?

While my tuxedo pants have a plain front, I've never heard it to be unacceptable for their to be 2 pleats.

 

[Sazerac]

This is just my opinion, but a single pleat holds the crease better all the way up the front of the pants while creating minimal bulk precisely where men don't need it. More than one pleat may provide added "give" when sitting -- though this is largely a myth -- they don't look great when standing.

I prefer flat front tux pants myself but understand the wisdom of a single pleat for the purpose of maintaining a crease.

 

[Sander]

^ this is nonsense.

 

[Sazerac]

How so?

 

[ilsa]

Thank you to each one who took the time to reply to my post.

I truly appreciate all the feedback, and realize that not everyone agrees. While there are plenty of rules for traditional formalwear, what I'm really seeking here is advice that could assist me in making a flattering selection for my husband.

He's owned tuxes for years, but his sizing has changed over time, and with that, I believe, more sensitivity to cut and style elements is required to achieve the best possible look. Personally, I work with a stylist, but she doesn't style men. So, after lurking on your board for a while, I thought this would be a good place to come for some helpful advice.

@amplifiedheat - Thanks for weighing in on the pleats. Which style trouser do you think would be most flattering for someone of his size and shape?

@ChicagoMediaMan-27 - Thanks for your comments on the buttons. Do you think a one or two-button style would be more flattering on him?

And thanks for your comment on pleats as well.

@negusnegas - Thank you. I'm very traditional when it comes to formalwear, so although Sazerac doesn't realize it, he is preaching to the choir on this one.

@dasai - Thanks for the link. I'd already visited their site before I posted here. And no, you actually score points for no snark.<wink>

@aj_del - I'm with you on the flaps; I think they add bulk. But I am open to midnight blue. The pants are a 40. Do you think there's adequate seam allowance there to let out to 41-42?

@landshark - Thank you for the BB link.

@mic - You are a gentleman and a scholar, and I thank you for keeping the boys at bay. Much appreciated.

@Sazerac - He has formal patent pumps, links and studs. Those he hasn't outgrown.<wink> I'm with you on most of your comments, as you might have gleaned from my original post. But why do you diss satin lapels? Zegna does satin on his tuxedo.

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by ilsa

@amplifiedheat - Thanks for weighing in on the pleats. Which style trouser do you think would be most flattering for someone of his size and shape?
I would go single or double pleated. The bias some people have against pleats mostly applies to double-pleated khakis with an insufficient rise and not enough room in the seat, worn without a jacket. Well-fitting tuxedo trousers with pleats look subtle and dashing. Especially given his sizing, it's crucial to find pants with enough room in the seat. Pulling at the crotch is pretty unsightly. You might look into custom tailoring, if money isn't too tight. It would make sizing problems a non-issue, and things like midnight blue fabric or forward pleats would become more of an option. I'm sure there's a good tailor in Miami or whatever the nearest large city is.

 

[Sazerac]

Glad we could help -- or at least lend an opinion or two.

In my opinion, proper fit trumps all else. Even the most expensive tux won't look good if it doesn't fit.

 

[ilsa]

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

Especially given his sizing, it's crucial to find pants with enough room in the seat. Pulling at the crotch is pretty unsightly. You might look into custom tailoring, if money isn't too tight. It would make sizing problems a non-issue, and things like midnight blue fabric or forward pleats would become more of an option. I'm sure there's a good tailor in Miami or whatever the nearest large city is.

He does have some suits made, but I think his thought process here is not to invest more than necessary because tuxes don't get the level of wear you'd expect from a suit. And I can appreciate that. He's probably also hoping that he'll drop some weight--another reason not to sink money into a really fine tux. I know he's dropped seven pounds in the past few weeks.

His body shape reminds me of Jay Leno's. Jay's tailoring is always so flattering to his shape and size.

 

[a tailor]

for your consideration. many men have chosen tropical weight cloth tuxedos, in black or midnight blue naturally.
think: in winter ladies are dressed needing warmth. in summer the air conditioning must not be too cool.
the gentlemen have just finished a several course dinner, with a cocktail before, wine during, and a topper afterward.
now comes the dancing thats my favorite part.
but the poor guys wearing the traditional heavier wools are good for one dance before its just too darn warm for more than one. the tropical makes it a little more comfortable.

 

[LanceW]

Most new trousers seem to have 2" to be let out.

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by ilsa

He does have some suits made, but I think his thought process here is not to invest more than necessary because tuxes don't get the level of wear you'd expect from a suit. And I can appreciate that. He's probably also hoping that he'll drop some weight--another reason not to sink money into a really fine tux. I know he's dropped seven pounds in the past few weeks.

In that case, I would go Jos A. Bank. Their basic tuxedos are solid enough, are on sale at the moment, and are sold as separates.
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop...1_10050_101458
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop...1_10050_229131

 

[Jerome]

I will probably be criticized for ignoring cultural differences or whatever but I think that if your husband isn't even able to buy his own clothes he may be content with a nice black baby suit for the evening. But don't let him drink too much- he might soil it and we all know how difficult it is to wash out those vomit stains..

 

[Bounder]

Originally Posted by ilsa

He is a 46R but wears 41 or 42 pants.
The first number is his chest size. Pants are typically 5-7 inches smaller than the chest. Pants from a 46R ought to be tailorable for a 41 inch waist.

What would you suggest as the most flattering jacket style?

For him, probably single-breasted peak lapel. But Manton should really weigh in on this. He wrote the book on it. Really.

How many buttons?

One. Typically no vent. As for single breasted or double breasted, single breasted would probably look slightly more flattering on him but double-breasted allows you to skip the waist covering, so no cummerbund or waistcoat required. One of the big disadvantages of double breasted jackets is that they are a little warmer than single breasted. But if you're going to wear a waistcoat with a single-breated DJ anyway, there isn't much difference. And for the trousers, would you suggest flat front or pleated?

Not being a fan of cummerbunds, I'd like to find him a traditional waistcoast (not a vest) that will button onto the trousers.

I'm not aware of any waistcoats that button onto the trousers. DJ stands for "Dinner Jacket." not "Dinner Jumpsuit." If you want to save money, a double breasted DJ will also be marginally cheaper as you don't have to worry about a waist covering.

 

[dasai]

Originally Posted by Bounder

I'm not aware of any waistcoats that button onto the trousers. DJ stands for "Dinner Jacket." not "Dinner Jumpsuit."
I'm pretty sure she's referring to a trouser tab, which keeps the waistcoat from riding up and exposing any shirt underneath.