Best suits in NYC under $2000

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitNovice, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. SuitNovice

    SuitNovice New Member

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    I am starting a new job which will require me to wear suits more often, so I wish to add around 3-4 new suits to my current collection of 2. I hope to pay not much more than $2000 a suit and obviously don't mind paying less. I'm open to custom or OTR. (I'm going to use the term custom because I don't want this tread to turn into a "Is so-and-so bespoke or MTM" debate.)

    In terms of style, I like slim-fitting, two-button suits with notched lapels and basic details (no hacking pockets or heavy contrast stitching etc). Flat-front pants.

    In terms of size, my shoulders fit best in size 36 suits and my chest in size 38. Even with slim-fit suits, I'll need the waist taken in a bit. My height is semi-short, so in some brands I look best in a short, others in a regular. My pants are 31 waist and 30 length.

    So far, I've looked at RTW suits by:
    Paul Stuart: I liked the Phineas Cole line which runs about $1600.
    Hickey Freeman: Their sterling collection (about $1000) fit me well but the fabric didn't feel very nice to me. Their mahogany collection (about $1500) had nicer fabric but did not fit me well.
    Ermenegildo Zenga: Nice fabric and fit. The most expensive I looked at, however, at $2000.
    Ralph Lauren Black Label: $1600, fit well.
    Brooks Brothers: Looked at the Fitzgerald and Regent of the 1818 collection. Priced around $900. The fabric seemed a little less nice than some of the others.

    Most of the suits were fused but their sale people claimed that current fusing technology is good enough that its not an issue. I believe the Zenga and Hickey Freeman mahogany suits were floating half canvas.

    The suits differed in button height and shoulder type ("natural", "rope"). While I can see the difference when pointed out to me by the sales staff, I have yet to form a strong opinion on what I like.

    Of the above RTW options, should I favor some over the others?

    What would I be better off doing? Getting a RTW suit and altering it a little or going custom? I would rather a good RTW suit than a poorly made custom suit and I am not sure if my budget or knowledge level is high enough to get into custom. I've seen some NYC names on this site at less than $2000: Mr Ned, Michael Andrews, Alan David. But each has mixed reviews and/or has a house style different from what I'm looking for. Any suggestions?

    Thanks
     
  2. coop86

    coop86 Senior member

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    Whatever fits you the best. From your summary it seems the RLBL and Zenga are the fabric and fit you are looking for... I think the Zegna is more conservative and the RLBL more trendy, so I would take that into consideration as a final decision between the two.
     
  3. jambo

    jambo Member

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    What Zegna suits were you looking at that were only $2,000? Which store?

    The RLBL and Phineas Cole are fully canvassed, I believe. For what it's worth, I have 3 RLBL suits and 1 Phineas Cole, and I think I am starting to prefer the Phineas Cole (though my particular Phineas Cole is more conservative than the ones on their catalogue).

    On one of my RLBL, a piece of a hard, fibrous material came to poke through the lapel after a few wearings, and I had to remove it. Another of my RLBL holds wrinkles no matter how long it hangs in the closet. The other one doesn't have any problems.

    The PC, while not perfect, seems like a better everyday suit. It doesn't hold wrinkles, I haven't seen any issues with construction, etc.

    I don't know anything about the other suits you looked at. I have seen some nice looking pictures of Michael Andrews suits, but haven't seen them in person.
     
  4. SuitNovice

    SuitNovice New Member

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    >> What Zegna suits were you looking at that were only $2,000? Which store?

    I was at Barneys. Unfortunately, I did not write down the model name and can not find it on the web. Don't worry, it was not Z Zenga.

    >> though my particular Phineas Cole is more conservative than the ones on their catalogue

    I am also looking at one of their more conservative suits. For some reason their catalog only has pictures of their most trendy designs.

    >> I think the Zegna is more conservative and the RLBL more trendy

    Yes, I would agree. Can't exactly put my figure on why, but the RLBL did appear more trendy to me.
     
  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    you should look at BB Milano fit as well and PRL Bradford fit as well, in 36
     
  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Brooks Brothers: Looked at the Fitzgerald and Regent of the 1818 collection. Priced around $900. The fabric seemed a little less nice than some of the others.

    There's a 25% off corporate sale coming up. Easy to obtain a corporate card through Borders.
     
  7. bertbacharat

    bertbacharat Member

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    My favorite is Michael Andrews Bespoke. All my shirts and suits are from there (except a RLPL and Zegna). It's all about the fabric you pick though. I always recommend spending a little bit more for the better fabrics.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    My favorite is Michael Andrews Bespoke. All my shirts and suits are from there (except a RLPL and Zegna). It's all about the fabric you pick though. I always recommend spending a little bit more for the better fabrics.

    Dan Trepanier?
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    What Zegna suits were you looking at that were only $2,000? Which store?

    The RLBL and Phineas Cole are fully canvassed, I believe. For what it's worth, I have 3 RLBL suits and 1 Phineas Cole, and I think I am starting to prefer the Phineas Cole (though my particular Phineas Cole is more conservative than the ones on their catalogue).

    On one of my RLBL, a piece of a hard, fibrous material came to poke through the lapel after a few wearings, and I had to remove it. Another of my RLBL holds wrinkles no matter how long it hangs in the closet. The other one doesn't have any problems.

    The PC, while not perfect, seems like a better everyday suit. It doesn't hold wrinkles, I haven't seen any issues with construction, etc.

    I don't know anything about the other suits you looked at. I have seen some nice looking pictures of Michael Andrews suits, but haven't seen them in person.


    winkle is usually a function of fabric, was one of your RLBL linen? I have 3 RLBL, 2 in wool, 1 in wool/cashmere blend, non winkled. Generally speaking if you get heavier fabric it will tend to winkle less
     
  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    >> What Zegna suits were you looking at that were only $2,000? Which store?

    I was at Barneys. Unfortunately, I did not write down the model name and can not find it on the web. Don't worry, it was not Z Zenga.

    >> though my particular Phineas Cole is more conservative than the ones on their catalogue

    I am also looking at one of their more conservative suits. For some reason their catalog only has pictures of their most trendy designs.

    >> I think the Zegna is more conservative and the RLBL more trendy

    Yes, I would agree. Can't exactly put my figure on why, but the RLBL did appear more trendy to me.


    RLBL is more trendy because the contrast it's trying to make by
    1. lower the button stand
    2. strong shoulder and chest with the chest it is showing due to 1
    3. the way RLBL trouser fits (rather low raise, though not as low as fashion brand such as Gucci/Versace etc.)

    Phinease Cole is nice, but I think the regular Paul Stuart is good as well, and they have both 37 and 36 in short which might work out well for you.
     
  11. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    You can get exactly what you want from Ercoles at a bit less than your budget. Frank is in Mahattan once a week as well...give them a call and see when he'll be in the city next...full canvass, 99% handmade, and you pick what you like...real bespoke, not Michael Andrews Bespoke...
     
  12. Patek14

    Patek14 Senior member

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    For RTW based on what you wrote below, it sounds like RLBL is the best for you.

    You might want to consider corneliani as well. It should be priced above HF mainline but lower than RLBL and Zegna. I suspect some (but not all models) will fit you well. They are well made suits and are not as fashion forward as RLBL.
     
  13. MaxK

    MaxK Senior member

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    Check out Winston Tailors. Paul will have a lot of fabric options for you in that price range, and the quality of construction and fit is excellent.
     
  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    For RTW based on what you wrote below, it sounds like RLBL is the best for you.

    You might want to consider corneliani as well. It should be priced above HF mainline but lower than RLBL and Zegna. I suspect some (but not all models) will fit you well. They are well made suits and are not as fashion forward as RLBL.


    I think Corneliani works better for taller guy, just my own experience so far and I am 5'7", 5'8"
     
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    You can get exactly what you want from Ercoles at a bit less than your budget. Frank is in Mahattan once a week as well...give them a call and see when he'll be in the city next...full canvass, 99% handmade, and you pick what you like...real bespoke, not Michael Andrews Bespoke...

    not sure if it's the best thing for the guy to go bespoke so fast if you ask me. I definitely had my share of fail...
     

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