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Best Suit Makers/Designers for Muscular Build

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Snidely Whiplash, Sep 30, 2010.

  1. malat

    malat Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 10, 2010
    Depending on the suit, I have some suits in S and some suits in R. The Zegna I recently purchased is a R, though I had the coat shortened by about a 1/4".
     
  2. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    20,008
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    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    This is roughly as good as it gets in terms of great body whilst still being able to use a suit:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I have a 42" chest and a 32" waist, and I just got a TaT suit, and it fits fine (after some alterations [​IMG] ). Whereas I'm not baller enough for Purple Label or Tom Ford just yet, for RTW, I've had success with Z Zegna & RLBL, and add a touch more waist suppression. The higher armholes & the way they press the jacket is such that it hugs your chest nicely.

    Have you tried any of these on at a local store? Use a salesperson to give you options, say thanks, then look for your size on B&S Forvm. Much cheaper [​IMG]
     
  4. CharlesKiehler

    CharlesKiehler New Member

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    1
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    Jan 20, 2013
    I have been searching high and low suits that fit me to no avail. I am in a similar boat being 5'8", 220lbs with a 52" chest, 18" arms and a 36 waist. My thighs are the hardest thing to shop for as I am constant search of loose fit pants with lower legs that arent enormous. All pants I have are either too tight or look unproportioned. Any thoughts?
     
  5. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    Sep 3, 2012
    I'm not that big (44 chest, 36 waist), but I've generally found that Ralph Lauren Purple Label 'Drake' model is the best fit. Some Zega cuts work as well, but almost everything else is way off somewhere (RLBL too tight through the bicep; Polo RL and BB too narrow through the shoulders versus chest). Keep in mind that overarm can be an issue as well, and that if you have prominent traps an unstructured shoulder can look terrible (and a structured shoulder ≭ a heavily padded shoulder).

    CharlesKiehler - Sorry to say it, but I doubt you're going to find a good fit except through MTM, and even then it might be a challenge.
     
  6. Varmant

    Varmant Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 14, 2013
    Hit the clearance centres for end of line Canali, Zegna and Brooks Brothers to name a few and all 3 of which should be generous enough in fit. You''ll also save a lot of money.
     
  7. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Tom Ford caters to people with small waists so they have a much higher drop than most other brands. I would say they cater to an "athletic" build when i got mine i had a 42 inch chest and a 30in waist and their 48(38R) base a fit me almost perfectly, but if we are talking bodybuilder type built I'm not sure I've come across a brand that does that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  8. Geruvah

    Geruvah Senior member

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    Nov 6, 2008
    Not a bodybuilder but definitely athletic. In between 38S and 40S with a 32.5" waist. Tom Ford was the best I've ever had. I much prefer it over my internet MTM suits (even after tailor alterations).
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  9. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    [quote name="CharlesKiehler" url="/t/202058/best-suit-makers-designers-for-muscular-build/15#post_6066878" 5'8", 220lbs with a 52" chest, 18" arms and a 36 waist.
    [/quote]

    If those numbers are even close to accurate then no chance OTR.
     
  10. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Your hips are smaller then your waist?
     
  11. Geruvah

    Geruvah Senior member

    Messages:
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    Nov 6, 2008
    

    Whoops. Hit a 3 instead of a 4 on the hips. 3AM and all. Was trying to say how my thighs were compared to the waist. Real hourglass here. Screw it, I'll just delete that part.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  12. connor09

    connor09 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 26, 2011
    Location:
    London
    It would be best to go for mtm especially if you are muscular. You cannot run the risk of having an ill-fitting suit with your body type it has to be mtm.
     
  13. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Mar 3, 2009
    

    Lol are you really comparing a top end RTW maker (Zegna Couture) with online MTM?
     
  14. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Just because its MTM does not automatically mean it cannot be ill fitting.
     
  15. Geruvah

    Geruvah Senior member

    Messages:
    125
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    Nov 6, 2008
    

    I'm comparing fit to a guy who may be considering online MTM over an OTR piece that, in my opinion, is built for guys with our particular shape, yes. He asked for designers who catered to that, not tiers. So I'm ignoring that.

    It's just like how, despite being fashion brands, Dior and Burberry are better construction-wise than Indochino, I'd say. But their design is just unflattering and underwhelming to a guy with a muscular build.

    Mind you, I never even tried on a Kiton or others at that price range.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  16. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 3, 2009
    

    Kiton with a little tailoring works surprisingly well for guys with our build (I'm going by your previous comment where you said 42in chest and 32in waist). Attolini as well, Some Brioni works but others give off the football shoulder pad look.
     
  17. Geruvah

    Geruvah Senior member

    Messages:
    125
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    Nov 6, 2008
    Brioni I totally see that. Kiton was just always and probably forever will be out of my price range. But at least now I know that if I win the lottery, I can buy a couple with no problem.
     
  18. jtang108

    jtang108 Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2011
    Location:
    Bay Area San Francisco
    I have a solution for all you muscular guys out there who can't find a proper fitting shirt. Vastrm is a newly established company that focuses on the perfect fitting polo. With our Home Try on kit you can try out up to three different size/styles of polos to determine the perfect fit for you. Still can't find the right fit? No problem because we can alter shoulders, chest, waist, sleeve length, sleeve opening, and length to any dimension you need! Once you get that fit, put you FitID into your account at www.vastrm.com and order uniquely designed shirts by you or those created in our collections in the perfect size for your body type. Make an account now and instantly receive $20 credit toward your first purchase! Questions? Contact us anytime at warriors@vastrm.com
     
  19. victoremque

    victoremque Member

    Messages:
    22
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    Feb 17, 2013
    I'm sort-of in the same boat (42in chest, 28in waist) and honestly, at this point I've just about given up on any OTR jackets fitting from the get go. Just find something that fits well through the chest and shoulders and deal with the waist later. Either that or look into MTM.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  20. formz

    formz Active Member

    Messages:
    33
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    Apr 21, 2011
    Heh..... bumping this thread because I'm searching as well. But I'm a 48" chest and a 32" waist. NOW WHAT?
     

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