Best Suit Makers/Designers for Muscular Build

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Snidely Whiplash, Sep 30, 2010.

  1. Snidely Whiplash

    Snidely Whiplash Senior member

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    Some great recommendations, thanks a lot!

    Looking at those photos, it's nice to finally feel happy about not being stronger [​IMG]

    Suited, I would be grateful to see your photos when they are ready - I am willing to buy Armani Collezioni (barely), if it's 80%+ off. BTW, what are currently the Armani labels above Collezioni? I have more of the SF-approved stuff in my closet - Isaia, Borrelli, etc., bought at massive discounts, plus Etro & Paul Smith mostly for their use of color.
     


  2. suited

    suited Senior member

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    I'm sure those guys look awesome with their clothes off, but with their clothes on ... god-awful. No matter how you tailor that, you look just bizarre.


    The guy on the right is Ronnie Coleman, 8 time Mr. Olympia.
     


  3. Snidely Whiplash

    Snidely Whiplash Senior member

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    I normally avoid saying this kind of thing about guys, but Mr. Coleman certainly looks better in his Speedo [​IMG]

    So are brands like RLBL, Tom Ford, BBBF, Thom Browne and Thick as Thieves off limits for people like us? Again, I am talking about people with muscular/wrestler builds, not bodybuilder builds. As a few of you noted, I am a drop 8 (and 5'9''). Two of the other people on this thread are 5'9'' and 5'10''.

    I feel that Canalis are a pretty good fit, but are not slimming. Also, I wear a size down in Canali (I am probably a 41 in most sizes, but more like a 39 in Canali). I will definitely take the advice of many of you and try on the Zegna models you mentioned!

    As an aside, there was some chatter (Tairy Greene: I said chatter, not cheddar!...is there cheddar?) about 5'9'' being tall enough not to need a size "S" jacket. Did you say that because I have a 42' chest? I was always under the impression that a size "S" is basically meant for someone with shoulders that are broad relative to the length of the torso, and therefore not an indication of one's height (e.g., you could be 8 feet tall and still wear a "Short" if your shoulders are very broad). Is that correct? Also, I get the feeling that a lot of guys steer clear of suits with the "S" designation, feeling that it would mark them as short in stature [​IMG]
     


  4. twosnapsandgo

    twosnapsandgo Senior member

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    I normally avoid saying this kind of thing about guys, but Mr. Coleman certainly looks better in his Speedo [​IMG] So are brands like RLBL, Tom Ford, BBBF, Thom Browne and Thick as Thieves off limits for people like us? Again, I am talking about people with muscular/wrestler builds, not bodybuilder builds. As a few of you noted, I am a drop 8 (and 5'9''). Two of the other people on this thread are 5'9'' and 5'10''. I feel that Canalis are a pretty good fit, but are not slimming. Also, I wear a size down in Canali (I am probably a 41 in most sizes, but more like a 39 in Canali). I will definitely take the advice of many of you and try on the Zegna models you mentioned! As an aside, there was some chatter (Tairy Greene: I said chatter, not cheddar!...is there cheddar?) about 5'9'' being tall enough not to need a size "S" jacket. Did you say that because I have a 42' chest? I was always under the impression that a size "S" is basically meant for someone with shoulders that are broad relative to the length of the torso, and therefore not an indication of one's height (e.g., you could be 8 feet tall and still wear a "Short" if your shoulders are very broad). Is that correct? Also, I get the feeling that a lot of guys steer clear of suits with the "S" designation, feeling that it would mark them as short in stature [​IMG]
    S is for Short R is for Regular L is for Long It is important to try out because each designer has his own take general rule 5'7 or lower is S 5'8 -5'10 is R Anyone over 5'11 + is long. It is a general rule because everyone's torso and leg length is different and you want your make your body proportionate shoulder to hip: hip to ankle No one wants a short torso and long legs nor long torso and stunted legs.
     


  5. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    I am in similar situation after hitting the gym....40/42 jacket and 33/34 pants depending on the cut of the suit.

    From my experience, there's no one suit brand that works across the board, it all depends on the cut of the specific offering.

    My recommendation is to focus on the fit and the material (something that drapes well) of the jacket first. The pants, relatively speaking, are a lot easier to alter.
     


  6. malat

    malat Senior member

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    Depending on the suit, I have some suits in S and some suits in R. The Zegna I recently purchased is a R, though I had the coat shortened by about a 1/4".
     


  7. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    This is roughly as good as it gets in terms of great body whilst still being able to use a suit:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  8. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    I have a 42" chest and a 32" waist, and I just got a TaT suit, and it fits fine (after some alterations [​IMG] ). Whereas I'm not baller enough for Purple Label or Tom Ford just yet, for RTW, I've had success with Z Zegna & RLBL, and add a touch more waist suppression. The higher armholes & the way they press the jacket is such that it hugs your chest nicely.

    Have you tried any of these on at a local store? Use a salesperson to give you options, say thanks, then look for your size on B&S Forvm. Much cheaper [​IMG]
     


  9. CharlesKiehler

    CharlesKiehler New Member

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    I have been searching high and low suits that fit me to no avail. I am in a similar boat being 5'8", 220lbs with a 52" chest, 18" arms and a 36 waist. My thighs are the hardest thing to shop for as I am constant search of loose fit pants with lower legs that arent enormous. All pants I have are either too tight or look unproportioned. Any thoughts?
     


  10. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    I'm not that big (44 chest, 36 waist), but I've generally found that Ralph Lauren Purple Label 'Drake' model is the best fit. Some Zega cuts work as well, but almost everything else is way off somewhere (RLBL too tight through the bicep; Polo RL and BB too narrow through the shoulders versus chest). Keep in mind that overarm can be an issue as well, and that if you have prominent traps an unstructured shoulder can look terrible (and a structured shoulder ≭ a heavily padded shoulder).

    CharlesKiehler - Sorry to say it, but I doubt you're going to find a good fit except through MTM, and even then it might be a challenge.
     


  11. Varmant

    Varmant Well-Known Member

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    Hit the clearance centres for end of line Canali, Zegna and Brooks Brothers to name a few and all 3 of which should be generous enough in fit. You''ll also save a lot of money.
     


  12. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Tom Ford caters to people with small waists so they have a much higher drop than most other brands. I would say they cater to an "athletic" build when i got mine i had a 42 inch chest and a 30in waist and their 48(38R) base a fit me almost perfectly, but if we are talking bodybuilder type built I'm not sure I've come across a brand that does that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013


  13. Geruvah

    Geruvah Senior member

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    Not a bodybuilder but definitely athletic. In between 38S and 40S with a 32.5" waist. Tom Ford was the best I've ever had. I much prefer it over my internet MTM suits (even after tailor alterations).
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013


  14. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    [quote name="CharlesKiehler" url="/t/202058/best-suit-makers-designers-for-muscular-build/15#post_6066878" 5'8", 220lbs with a 52" chest, 18" arms and a 36 waist.
    [/quote]

    If those numbers are even close to accurate then no chance OTR.
     


  15. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Your hips are smaller then your waist?
     


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