Best RTW brand for sloped shoulders?

[cpadude]

My shoulders slope down enough to the point that most RTW suits do not fit correctly. The shoulder ends up looking fine, but because the my shoulders slope, fabric that was supposed to be on my shoulder ends up bunching up further down my back. I am wondering if anyone has dealt with this kind of issue and has found a RTW brand that had shoulders that better fit the contours of a sloped shoulder.

Much Thanks.

 

[mack11211]

I have the same issue.

There are several options.

One is to have a tailor build up the shoulder.

The other thing to note, however, is how broad your shoulders are. Mine are both narrow and sloping. Thus more narrow shouldered suits and shirts leave less material to sag.

The other thing to decide is what kind of shoulder profile you want -- a horizontal shoulder line or some kind of angle. A brand with a more rigid chest and a strong shoulder, like Fioravanti or Brioni, will make you look more like the executive warrior, while a softly padded 'natural shoulder' will leave you more swallow-shouldered, which has been in fashion at times, at least in the 1840s

 

[Holdfast]

mack's hit on what I think is the fundamental issue is - do you want to hide the sloping or let your jackets reflect it.

My shoulders aren't actually sloping but neither are they hugely built up. I tend to prefer a reasonably strong shoulder and go for Brioni and Ede & Ravenscroft, both of which disguise the lack of Soph-level hours at the gym without looking like a gridiron reject! RLPL is a bit less "powerful" but still would disguise the slope while fitting comfortably in my experience.

If you choose to simply have your jackets reflect the slope but fit well then the softer makers will do you well, but RTW is unlikely to fit you well from these makers.

If the slope is really significant, then bespoke becomes a better option since even a strong-shouldered rtw jacket will collapse on your frame.

 

[Ivan Kipling]

You can 'adjust' the slope of your shoulders, through exercise. I know I have. This has made a big difference, in the way I wear jackets. Otherwise, as others have stated before me: decide which route you want to take: either to allow the slope of your shoulders to rule, or to pursue artificial or natural means, to straighten their slope.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...nhumorjoan.jpg

 

[gdl203]

Isaia

 

[rssmsvc]

I have similiar shoulders and what I have found is:

Isaia - Vincent model , Belvest , and Brioni - Nomentano(sp) model.

RLPL 3 button also is well in the Madison model

For some reason Oxxford needs a lot of alterations in the shoulder for me.

 

[a tailor]

try made 2 measure or custom made.

 

[Pennglock]

Polo suits have the least amount of shoulder padding of any RTW suit Ive ever tried. Might want to look into them.

 

[California Dreamer]

Originally Posted by Ivan Kipling

You can 'adjust' the slope of your shoulders, through exercise. I know I have. This has made a big difference, in the way I wear jackets. Otherwise, as others have stated before me: decide which route you want to take: either to allow the slope of your shoulders to rule, or to pursue artificial or natural means, to straighten their slope.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...nhumorjoan.jpg
I can't imagine an exercise regime that would build my very sloped shoulders up to normal levels - I'd pretty much have to grow a bicep muscle on the top of each. Taking that approach is a recipe for frustration and failure. Sometimes you have to work with what you have. It's an interesting question as to whether it's better to conceal or show sloping shoulders. I have tried both, and I really can't decide. I suspect a little bit of padding is OK, but building them up to almost level feels and looks all wrong.

 

[Ivan Kipling]

What I wrote was that you could 'adjust' your shoulders' slope, via exercise. I believe this to be true. I know that I have. For me personally, it was more frustrating to look at a shoulderline I didn't like, rather than to exercise it right here at home, to make my shoulders more 'jacket' friendly. But every case is different.

 

[SGladwell]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Isaia

You think so? Isaia's have probably the least shoulder sculpting of any RTW suit currently made.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by SGladwell

You think so? Isaia's have probably the least shoulder sculpting of any RTW suit currently made.

Yes - that's the point. Minimal padding is IMO the best option for sloped shoulder. I think compensating the slope with a built shoulder is a real mistake

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Yes - that's the point. Minimal padding is IMO the best option for sloped shoulder. I think compensating the slope with a built shoulder is a real mistake

This should be interesting. I'm not sure I agree.

For instance, here is very minimally padded jacket, one on a chap with sloping shoulders, the other on a chap with much squarer shoulders. I think the sloping shoulder dude looks pretty ridiculous.

 

[gdl203]

^^^ I think this sums it up perfectly. The guy on the right looks great. I don't care much for his db jacket but the sloped shoulders are perfect and very natural

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by gdl203

^^^ I think this sums it up perfectly. The guy on the right looks great. I don't care much for his db jacket but the sloped shoulders are perfect and very natural

They are two different guys. The guy on the right has sloped shoulders, the guy on the left does not. Both jackets have little padding.

IMO the sloping on the right looks silly and exaggerated. I guess it's just a matter of taste, but I think heavily sloped shoulders should be built up with padding. I don't like the look of the guy on the right.