Best quality

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ClassyFreddy, Aug 26, 2003.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Getting back to the original topic,

    Um, I would put Armani Classico and Black label a little higher (referring to HRH's original response) and Cerruti 1881 a little lower. I really think that Vestimenta puts out a quality product, and Armani clothing is at least distinctive, regardless of whether you personally like the style or not.

    I would also argue that there are finer gradations in the "low end." For example, Hugo Boss and Strellson suits are far superior to RL's cheaper lines.

    I think that Corneliani suits are rather overrated by members of the forum (though they are certainly fine suits.) I certainly wouldn't pick a Corneliani (or even Canali) suit over one a Gucci. It's easy to pick on the big designers, but the quality of a Gucci suit is easily that of a Corneliani, and the styling is, imo, much more elegant. Not that I would ever pick up a Gucci instead of an Attolini or Kiton, of course.
     


  2. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    LA Guy: I agree with you on Cerruti 1881: I have a suit by Cerruti 1881 and while the fabric is nice, and it is an interesting suit of olive plaid, it is fused. I put it below a Canali. Don't go dissing Corneliani though  [​IMG]
     


  3. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    I had read somewhere that Cerruti 1881 suits were canvas-front, though I confess to never having seen one in person though. Where did you get yours, Stu... I was curious if your suit was am anomaly or the general rule for the line.

    As for Corneliani, my opinion on it is that it is a very solid brand which would be great for a business suit or an entry-level suit into the canvas front range. While I have to agree that the quality is good, I do find it a little boring, plus I hear that Corneliani has started making a line of fused suits as well. I'd put Canali higher because they have better, slimmer cuts and a slightly more interesting choice of fabrics.

    In comparision with Gucci, my choice would depend on the make of the suit and the reason I'd wear it. Being really stubborn about canvas fronts, I'd only pick up one of the higher end Gucci models made by Zegna(?) as opposed to their cheaper, fused offerings. If I wanted a more exciting evening suit, I'd take Gucci hands down because they have some really sleek looking models with double vents, ticket pocket, and a slimmer cut. But if I just needed a solid interview suit I'd stick with Canali.
     


  4. mbc

    mbc Senior member

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    So, not to beat a dead horse, but given the above rankings from the first page of this thread... which are known to be fused or sewn on a consistent basis?
     


  5. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    Unless Cerruti 1881 is a fused line, which it may be according to Stu, I'd say everything from the top down to the 3rd level on that list is generally canvas front. In addition, the mainline Pal Zileri suits I have seen were canvas, and I hear that some Armani Collezioni suits are as well. Polo supposedly is made by Corneliani now, which means it should be canvas, but even at the RL boutique near me I have never seen a non-fused Polo. Canali Proposta may be canvas front as well, but I haven't seen anything in this line in person.

    Hope that helps.
     


  6. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    Glad to be back on the topic. I think I may agree that Cerutti 1881 could be a bit high, but I recently saw a beautiful cashmere suit that was really nice and it is sticking in my head. I also, didn't list any suits that were not in Classy's original list. Who makes Gucci? Interesting piece of info on Corneliani producing for Polo. Maybe that is part of a new fused line that I heard of. Now that Isaia and Barbera are going to produce fused lines as well, maybe we will need to put together a list that covers each line in a label. Something like basics for newbies. Quite an undertaking, but I don't like being called an ass. I am pretty sure that Canali Proposta is indeed fused.

    -Andy
     


  7. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    isaia is making a fused line? say it ain't so. tell me you're joking. what next, porsche making an suv? hmmm... am i willing to walk around wearing a bunch of glue for the sake of having that beautiful neapolitan shoulder? no. [​IMG] Â [​IMG] Â [​IMG] btw, where did you hear of this?
     


  8. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    I noticed a few "Gianluca by Isaia" suits on ebay, such as this one, that looked a little different and had a clearly different label. Are these the fused Isaia suits people are referring to? If so, I really hope nobody actually buys that one thinking its a $2500 suit.
     


  9. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    I wish I was making it up.  It is going to be called "Gianluca Napoli."  I can't recall where I first read it, but Mr. Harris posted about it on Andy's forum.  Agree with you on those shoulders.

    -Andy

    I think that link does indeed show the fused suit. Hard to believe they are already out. I think I remember them to have a MSRP of $1200, could be wrong.
     


  10. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    On another note, do those of you who sell on ebay find things like the above link troubling? I would think it would only hurt your business as everytime someone gets burned on a misrepresentation it is one less potential customer.
     


  11. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    If our suspicions about fused Isaia's are confirmed, I don't intend to buy anything from that seller as a result, but I have to say his attempt at a "cover your ass" method is rather amusing. "Yeah this SORT OF isn't a high-end Isaia and it's NOT REALLY hand-made, but I'm still going to pass it off as a $2500 suit that retails for the same as a high-end, hand-made Isaia."

    Just the same, I think Isaia should share a small part of the blame for trying to sneak out an inferior, yet still highly-priced product using their reputation, even if it may seem like a good marketing strategy. It baffles me though, seeing that the select group of people who have heard of Isaia in the first place are most likely clotheshorses who could easily tell a good suit from a lesser one without relying on brand names.
     


  12. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Aybojs:  I went and got the suit out and looked at it, (my wife hates it when I play with my clothes  [​IMG] ). Anyway, it says Cerruti 1881, but inside, on a tag in one of the inside pockets, it says it's made by Hitman. I think Cerruti licensed out some production or something. I got it at Bluefly, and love it, but it's not near the quality of the Canali suits that I own. Still, it's a great summer suit for the office. Afterall, you can't wear Kiton and Attolini to the office every day.
     


  13. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Absolutely devastating news --- if it is indeed true. I have many doubts about the suit being an Isaia. Either that, or it is a very, very old model when the Enrico Label was still 'alive'. I have requested more pictures from the seller so I could give you a more definite answer later. Notice there are no pictures of the lining, the strange looking lapels and the shiny 'plastic-looking' buttons. There are plenty of details that look strange in that suit. I personally do not believe Isaia is coming out with a lower line --- never heard them mentioning it, plus, what kind of economical climate it is now to introduce something that could very well damage the reputation of a 3-generation family business?
     


  14. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Ready-made Attolini is only available in the Sartoria label, so in the interest of the topic, Sartoria Attolini should be along Kiton (and in my opinion, Brioni).
     


  15. donlipa

    donlipa Member

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    I've bought "gianluca isaia" suits (both mens and womens) from this seller and he is legit (although he does inflate the retail price). I've read in robb report that isaia has 3 levels of quality. Although the fused front is disapointing, i don't know why you doubt that isaia has come out with an "entry level" line as they have openly embraced modern production processes combined with "old world" tailoring. Even the "gianluca line" is partly machine made. As far as I know only the "enricho isaia" line is 100% handmade.

    This is based on what i've read, so correct me if i'm wrong.

    I also agree that sartoria attolini is on the same level as kiton and brioni
     


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