Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DuxMux, Sep 28, 2004.
From your experience what is your best quality/price suit?
That is a question that is far too vague. What price range, what material, what setting will it be used in, etc... These issues need to be addressed before that question can be answered.
Price range about 800$-1200$.
Material: wool super100.
I'm not sure what you mean by "setting" ?
He wants to know what you'll be doing when you wear this suit. Are you an investment banker? An advertising exec? A trendoid? The answer will dictate the advice that you get.
Setting: Business vs formal vs evening (going out) etc...
For $800-1200 you can buy any number of different high quality suits if you go the ebay or discounter route. Some good choices in the $400-600 price range would be Corelliani or Canali. Some good choices in the $750-900 price range may be Belvest, Oxxford, or Isaia. In the $1000-1400 price range, you may able to find Barbera, Attolini, Brioni, Borrelli, or St. Andrew.
At full retail, you're limited to Canali or Corelliani for RTW, you could also go the WW Chan route for MTM.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I was a computer programmer for about 10 years. I used to wear only t-shirt and jeans. But now i'm promote as director of the computing department so i have to report to some big bosses. I was told to upgraded my wardrobe. I saw at Harry Rosen some Canali suit but i found the "cut" a bit old.
I saw at Ogilvy in Montreal a couple of nice suits at about 500$ i think the name was "Aquascutum". Maybe it's the kind of suit to start with for a beginner?
Aquascetum is a decent suit maker, their suits do have canvas fronts in most cases. I find it interesting that you think Canali suits are old, perhaps it was the cut of the suit that you were looking at, as Acqascetum would seem to be older to me.
Again, I recommend looking at Corneliani, or some similar brands if you want something somewhat young looking but stylish and high quality, that is fairly affordable. These are $1200 suits at retail and can be found at discounters for $300 and ebay for $100-200.
custom, custom, custom. Once you shrug into a suit made expressly for you and have that Ahhhh ... feeling, you'll never go back. Even if the fabric is below standard, getting the fit done right and the hang just so is worth it.
I have one suit made by a tailor in Romania (he's done three suits plus another three or four jackets for me) that was made from this totally disgusting navy blue fabric, 50-50 poly-wool I think, the same fabric from which the Romania Railroad conductors have their uniforms made. But every time I wear it I get a complement on how fantastic it fits, how great the cut is, etc.
It's not hard to find a custom tailor in the $500-$800 range. Yes, more expensive than stuff off the rack on sale, etc., but even a mediocre custom suit will (a) last a lot longer and (b) fit a million times better.
Go for a conservative grey or navy and jazz it up with color in the shirts and ties. But most of all, use your clothing to express yourself. Have fun with it.
i don't know about (a).
Some people don't need to get a custom suit as their body type dictates that RTW will fit them more or less perfectly with minor alterations. I am one of these people and have no reason to wear a bespoke or MTM suit. Also, bespoke suits do not always fit well the first time that you have them created unless you know exactly what you want and they are time consuming to purchase. Any bespoke suit for $600-800 is likely going to be low quality and I would have serious questions about the fit as well. That's just a terrible recommendation for someone getting their first suit.
I have had zero problems--fit or quality--with WW Chan's custom work at that price range.
I should add, their first suit had the gorge a little lower than I like, but nothing out of proportion and I get lots of compliments on the suit. Subsequent suits were dead-on.
If you're more traditionally inclined (which I'm not sure you are), you can add Hickey-Freeman, Coppley, and Samuelsohn to the list.
Just chiming in to say that the RTW route may be better for you. Going bespoke (or "custom" is an option, but that's something you might not want to try until you get a little more experience with your updated wardrobe.
Just as I would not advise a beginning pianist to get a Steinway D, I would advise a LOT of education and study before embarking on a custom suit. I finally, after three years, feel adequately prepared to know precisely what I want with regards to a custom suit.
a) depends on the material. An off the rack, crap suit in a super 100 wool or super 80's (does this even exist anymore?) will be a lot more hardwearing than that Super 130 and cashmere blend custom job.
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