- Feb 15, 2008
- Reaction score
I'm going to have a suit made, but I would like to get the fabric myself. Where do you buy your fabrics if your not using what your tailor has; in NYC, or on the web?
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If you're having a suit made, I wouldn't stress too much about getting a deal on fabric. If your wool runs 60-100 bucks a yard, realize it's four yards max. The majority of your dollars go to labor.
This is not entirely accurate, is it? A Zegna or Cerruti roll costs many multiples of a regular mill. No?
Some issues here: most of us do not live in large, well-appointed tailoring centres. Hence, we need to find cloth online. In my personal experience, mills selling on-line tend to be the smaller to mid-size establishments, like Dugdale, Fox, Minnis and some tweed weavers. There are some eBay sellers, independent vendors, cloth aficionados like the London Lounge, but that's about it. Also, it strikes me that there seems to be little love on this forum for most of the better-known Italian makers, and even less so on the London Lounge and other fora. Partly because of perceived gaudiness, partly because of the whole luxury vs. durability debate, where the pendulum now seems to swing towards durability. There is also a value-for-money issue: Zegna is a big brand, with enormous overhead costs (all those AAA-location airport concessions cannot be cheap), which will of course be calculated in their prices.
The basis of the LL preference's of heavier & more robust English fabrics isn't value or durability or luxury, it's aesthetics. According to the experts, heavier fabrics produced by the best English mills like Lesser/Smith/Harrisons fall more cleanly, wrinkle less, achieve a better silhouette, have a superior depth of color, and provide a more interesting contrast of texture with the shirt/tie.