best options for buying a bespoke suit in italy?

[random512]

What are the best options for buying a bespoke suit in Italy? Most USA tailors have their suits made in HK and sometimes the result is decent but I'm guessing that there are better bespoke suit options to be had in Italy at prices less than Saville Row. What are some of the top options for this?

 

[Fonz4]

Rome: Sartoria Ripense
Milan: Musella Dembech
Florence: Sartoria Corcos
Naples: Eduardo De Simone, Ciardi, Carfora, Solito

 

[usctrojans31]

More context is necessary.

What styles do you like?
What's your budget?
Where do you live (presuming US)?
What languages do you speak?
How much experience do you have with bespoke?
Do you envision this as an ongoing relationship or a oneoff?

If you go with Fonz4's list, know that Corcos isn't taking new clients until next year, at the earliest.

 

[random512]

Budget - I would prefer to spend $2k or less for a VBC 110's. That's what I would consider happy value territory. I could possibly go to a max of $2500 for a suit and experience that hits it out of the ballpark.

Styles - I like a basic, modern 2-piece. I'm picky about shoulders. I wouldn't want the "wrinkly" shoulder style and I would want a custom lapel.

Location - I live in USA but plan to be hopping around Europe next year

Languages - I only speak English

Bespoke Experience - Over 10 years

Relationship - If I'm delighted with the quality then I could see myself potentially buying 2 pants and 2 jackets per year

 

[random512]

I'm surprised that I didn't get a response of something like "too many to list" given Italy's history of tailoring. Tailoring used to be a huge profession in Italy. I assume that dropped off a lot as lower cost RTW made its ascent. And probably another big drop off with the ascent of outsourcing to HK. But 6 recommended tailor shops in the whole country of Italy is anemic. Wow - Sartorial Ripense starts at $4400 for a bespoke suit:

http://www.sartorialtrips.com/sartoria-ripense

That's quite steep and very hard to justify these days for the 99% and even a lot of the 1%

 

[random512]

What about Antonio Panico in Naples?:

The Neapolitan Chapter: Antonio Panico

A one-on-one with one of the godfathers of the Neapolitan jacket

www.thebespokedudes.com

He seems like a pretty cool dude and he's pricey but not ridiculous, starting at $2800. I'm guessing that I could probably get what I want for < $3K. Here's a pic of him and his crew:

 

[Fonz4]

Budget - I would prefer to spend $2k or less for a VBC 110's. That's what I would consider happy value territory. I could possibly go to a max of $2500 for a suit and experience that hits it out of the ballpark.

Styles - I like a basic, modern 2-piece. I'm picky about shoulders. I wouldn't want the "wrinkly" shoulder style and I would want a custom lapel.

Location - I live in USA but plan to be hopping around Europe next year

Languages - I only speak English

Bespoke Experience - Over 10 years

Relationship - If I'm delighted with the quality then I could see myself potentially buying 2 pants and 2 jackets per year

First of all I would say sorry for posting just a list.

According to your needs I suggest to go in Naples and look for Eduardo De Simone (around 1.6k €) or Ettore De Cesare (around 1.8k €) or Sartoria Carfora. For the last one I don't remember the price, but according to me it is the most skilled young tailor in italy right now. He is on instagram also (with few posts) so you can easily contact him. My tailor is Eduardo De Simone, I'm biased, but it's now 4 years that I make suits and trousers through him. Clearly the fit (as the relationship with Eduardo) has improved a lot order to order.

 

[EFV]

+1 for just going straight to Naples. Eduardo de Simone is really great value, and quality is second to none. If you find a local to guide you there are a LOT of small tailoring shops around the town (and just outside it) that offer great bespoke at great prices.

 

[usctrojans31]

Budget - I would prefer to spend $2k or less for a VBC 110's. That's what I would consider happy value territory. I could possibly go to a max of $2500 for a suit and experience that hits it out of the ballpark.

Styles - I like a basic, modern 2-piece. I'm picky about shoulders. I wouldn't want the "wrinkly" shoulder style and I would want a custom lapel.

Location - I live in USA but plan to be hopping around Europe next year

Languages - I only speak English

Bespoke Experience - Over 10 years

Relationship - If I'm delighted with the quality then I could see myself potentially buying 2 pants and 2 jackets per year

This is good context. There are a few options, some of which others mentioned. Panico is going to be well over your budget (~3500 euros IIRC), and he only speaks Italian.

A lot of Neapolitan tailors will default to having some shirring on the shoulders, but I know plenty will give a bit more structured shoulder if you ask. Names to consider: Ciro Zizolfi (now comes to NYC), Ciardi (over your budget), Fabio Sodano (outside Napoli but will send a driver to come get you and travels all around Europe).

Given that it sounds like you like something a touch more structured, sticking in the north isn't a bad idea, but it's more expensive.

Also, remember that the prices you see on Sartorial Trips or Permanent Style include VAT.

 

[cpercon]

What is the best style for a body type with wide straight (not declining) shoulders and wide chest circumfirence?

 

[Texasmade]

What is the best style for a body type with wide straight (not declining) shoulders and wide chest circumfirence?

I’d say avoid something with a lot of drape in the chest.

 

[comrade]

Before you begin your Italian sartorial adventure I suggest viewing
the video "O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring and tailors:

o mast

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Before you begin your Italian sartorial adventure I suggest viewing
the video "O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring and tailors:

o mast

a few years ago the full film was available on YouTube but it’s since been taken down. I’m sure it was for legal reasons. Great film! Even greater characters.

 

[dukeaw]

Look at this book. The author describes the major tailoring houses of Italy and their styles.

The Italian Gentleman (Compact ed) /anglais: JACOMET HUGO: 9780500022863: Amazon.com: Books

The Italian Gentleman (Compact ed) /anglais [JACOMET HUGO] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. The Italian Gentleman (Compact ed) /anglais

www.amazon.com

 

[Texasmade]

Before you begin your Italian sartorial adventure I suggest viewing
the video "O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring and tailors:

o mast

I remember watching the full fill on Youtube. Great stuff.