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best off-the-rack suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jean_connoisseur23, Aug 16, 2006.

  1. jean_connoisseur23

    jean_connoisseur23 Senior member

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    who do you think makes the best off-the-rack suits that you have had so far??
    for me its:
    -paul smith(my best one so far)
    -dior homme(slimmest cut)
    -thomas pink(love the linings)
    -dsquared2(very dressy)
    -dolcegabbana(understated elegance)

    but nothing beats a bespoke suit..haha
     
  2. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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  3. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    All Marcs stick together on this question (even if not all use the correct spelling).
     
  4. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    I only have a handful of RTW suits and I think they're all either Brioni or RLPL. Both are good IMO. But I've never owned Kiton or Oxxford to compare them too.
     
  5. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    except for you. It's the style/cut that you like. Looking at your suggestions, I think you're more fashion-orientated. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but you do have to take care with the longevity of the suit. I'm just as guilty with my trio of 'fashion' suits still in my wardrobe.

    Others will have different preferences. I think general advise is buy into 'quality' ie good materials and proper construction (canvas vs fusing) and get something that fits properly. In the end, a 150usd dollar suit that fits you perfectly is going to look infinitely better than that 3000usd Oxxford that isn't.
     
  6. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    I think Zegna because you'd be hard pressed to find better material, and they have a wide enough range of cuts that it's pretty easy to find something that will fit you with minimal modifications. I know I could never wear an Oxxford RTW suit, and I'm not even sure if a tailor could get one of their RTW models to fit me the way I like a suit to fit. To the OP: I also love Dolce and PS suits, and have one of each. I think DG uses nicer fabrics than other fashion brands, but you pay more for them, and I love the fit of Paul Smith suits because it's slim, but it's "English slim," not "Italian slim." English slim fits me better (and it's what I go for when having a suit tailored) because it's made for a thin but not super skinny person, and it's a longer, straighter cut, which means it fits me very well.
     
  7. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    best OTR for me is Paul Smith and Dolce Gabbana's mainline collection. Ozwald Boateng is up there too.

    The cuts are amazing and those labels use very unique fabrics you wont find anywhere else.
     
  8. Swededude

    Swededude Senior member

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    proper construction (canvas vs fusing)

    Sorry for the hijacking, but I'd like to know the difference between those two types of construction, does anyone have pictures of suits that clearly shows the difference?
     
  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry for the hijacking, but I'd like to know the difference between those two types of construction, does anyone have pictures of suits that clearly shows the difference?

    Sorry, no pics, but I can give you a quick description. Fully canvassed suits have a "floating" canvas inside the jacket, to give the coat its shape and help it mold to the body. Fused suits, on the other hand, are held together with a glue-like fusible. Poor quality suits feel stiff and hard because of this fusing, which can even "bubble" and render the suit fit only for the trash bin. In between you'll find suits that combine fusing and canvas. Some fused suits have canvas lapels, for example, to give the lapels a more attractive "roll." Not all fused suits are bad -- some can be very decent -- but full canvassing is the hallmark of the superior suit.

    To tell if a jacket is fully canvassed, pinch the fabric below the bottom buttonhole on the inside and outside. Gently pull the cloth apart. Can you feel a third layer inside? The layer in the middle is the canvassing. It won't be there on a fused suit.
     
  10. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Senior member

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    Anyone up for Ravazzolo?

    My tailor says they make the best RTW suit.
     
  11. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Attolini
    Borrelli
     
  12. charlief1975

    charlief1975 Well-Known Member

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    To tell if a jacket is fully canvassed, pinch the fabric below the bottom buttonhole on the inside and outside. Gently pull the cloth apart. Can you feel a third layer inside? The layer in the middle is the canvassing. It won't be there on a fused suit.



    Good tip and info.
     
  13. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Anyone up for Ravazzolo?

    My tailor says they make the best RTW suit.


    Without having seen their suits, I would say they're reputed to be among the best _values_ (quality vs. price) among RTW suits. They are seldom mentioned in discussions of absolute best, though.
     
  14. jmatt

    jmatt Senior member

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    who do you think makes the best off-the-rack suits that you have had so far??
    for me its:
    -paul smith(my best one so far)
    -dior homme(slimmest cut)
    -thomas pink(love the linings)
    -dsquared2(very dressy)
    -dolcegabbana(understated elegance)

    but nothing beats a bespoke suit..haha

    None of those even show up on my radar.

    I'd list:

    Oxxford
    Kiton
    Brioni

    Then:

    Isaia
    Canali
    Zegna
    Corneliani

    Just my opinion though. I've seen many examples of all 7 brands I listed, and now own 3 of them.
     
  15. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

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    None of those even show up on my radar.

    I'd list:

    Oxxford
    Kiton
    Brioni

    Then:

    Isaia
    Canali
    Zegna
    Corneliani

    Just my opinion though. I've seen many examples of all 7 brands I listed, and now own 3 of them.

    Isaia really belongs between those two groups, along with RLPL and Barbera.
     
  16. jmatt

    jmatt Senior member

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    Isaia really belongs between those two groups, along with RLPL and Barbera.
    Probably fair. I did put Isaia intentionally at the top of the 2nd list. I'm not familiar with RLPL, but I do own a pair of Barbera pants which are unbelievable. I haven't paid attention to Barbera's suits though.

    Your points are well taken.
     
  17. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Anyone up for Ravazzolo?

    My tailor says they make the best RTW suit.


    They have not been making suits for long, but they can be thought of on the same level as Isaia Napoli RTW.
     
  18. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Kiton, Oxxford, Brioni.
     
  19. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Slim fitting suits are for the fortunate few. Most slim fitting suits seem to aim for fashion and style and not always for quailty. For quality in rtw the Oxxford, Brioni and Kiton seem much higher quality with Brioni and Kiton still having a great deal of style.
     
  20. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 22, 2004
    Mine.
    Top: Attolini, Borrelli, Kiton, Oxxford, Brioni, Isaia, Zegna Napoli, PRPL. I am sure there are many other fine labels I missed.

    Middle: Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali, Baldessarini, Vestimenta.

    Low: J.P Tilford, Corneliani, Polo, all other suits with canvas but no handwork.
     

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