1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7: A Made-to-Measure suit from Lanieri

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 6th auction of the year is for a Made-to-measure suit from Lanieri. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Best of 2017!

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Superb0bo, Dec 7, 2017 at 10:20 AM.

  1. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,125
    Likes Received:
    2,498
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2007
    Location:
    Zürich/Stockholm
    This used to be an annual happening, that I miss (sign of increasingly advanced age I guess).

    What are your favorite buys/kops of 2017? You can also name least favorites of course.


    Mine: [​IMG]
    Waldviertler "Phönix" shoes, black - a very strong senior/ortho vibe, but oh such a nice fit, and ticks alot of boxes.

    [​IMG]
    Adidas "Stan smith", black. - Finally a sneaker that looks boring and conservative, is pretty cheap, and has a perfect fit for me. Got 2 pairs. Goes with almost everything I wear.

    [​IMG]
    Filson "ranger" backpack - I travel alot with train, and its a great for that.


    Hiltl (Manufactum special) cords, black - finally the loose, pretty high rise, super heavy cords I have been after.

    IMG_20171201_101401006_HDR.jpg
    @sipang style shoe/pants interface

    Will add more if the cognitive fog lets up.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017 at 11:15 PM


  2. WBaker

    WBaker Senior Member

    Messages:
    594
    Likes Received:
    3,393
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    P1100902.jpg
    Margiela Replica Campus Boots. Purchased without thinking more than a few minutes, these became my favorite shoes overnight. The sole is perfect, exaggerated without tipping into the Cuban heel category. Shiny silver zips are underused in footwear.

    P1110536.jpg
    P1110537 (1).jpg
    Geller FW17 Olive Oiled Coat. Pre-ordered this through NMWA after seeing it in person at the runway show. It feels like RG X Barbour, super heavy waxed cotton that holds shape when bent and molded. Cant wait till its really broken in.

    1156x1156-2017082400021.jpg
    P1110745.jpg
    Geller SS17 Sample Pants. These wound up getting made with the leopard print material from SS17, but I love the Geller petrol blue-green color used for this sample. 100% cotton that feels like its something fancier.

    Also in the sample pants fit pic is a uniqlo shirt my store stocked this summer with no neck seaming that I have like 10 of and wear constantly.
     


  3. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,125
    Likes Received:
    2,498
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2007
    Location:
    Zürich/Stockholm


  4. Parker

    Parker Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,956
    Likes Received:
    13,359
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    I had a weird 2017. Didn't buy anything for 6 months, then I bought a bunch of stuff toward the end of the year most of which didn't really work out. Had small existential style crisis, i.e. "Where is my style going?". Anyway I these are my favorite purchases of the year.

    Best Staple
    Yohji Yamamoto M-65 Nylon Tech Jacket
    Probably the most un-Yohji you can get, but has all the hallmarks of his work: amazing fabric, just the right amount of "air", cool details, great cut. Like a cooler Barbour. Great for Bay Area Weather™.

    m65.jpg

    Runner up: Vans Custom Ivy Green Ultra Cush Authentics.
    I've worn these to the ground. Need to get another pair soon.

    vans.png

    Best Shirt
    Reyn Spooner x Phil Edwards
    Classic 1-color 60s style philodendron print. Nice summer jam.

    reyn.jpg

    Best Unique Piece
    Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcon Paper Moto
    Zipper crazy moto with some weird coated paper fabric. Super light and turns out Medium is a great fit for me. Not an everyday jacket.
    37018_s01.jpg

    Best Accessory
    Yohji Yamamoto silk, cotton modal scarf
    Cool abstract painted design. Goes nice with beat up jeans or navy suit. Flair!

    scarf.jpg

    Most Worn Item of the Year
    Uniqlo Ultra Light Down Vest
    I've worn this "gilet" amost every day of 2017 to walk the dogs. Holds treats, poop bags, phone, keys, sunglasses. Weighs nothing, is warm, super comfy and cheap.
    goods_172979_sub3.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017 at 2:29 AM


  5. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,125
    Likes Received:
    2,498
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2007
    Location:
    Zürich/Stockholm
    @Parker what possible directions did you consider in your style crisis?
     


  6. t3hg0suazn

    t3hg0suazn Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,035
    Likes Received:
    1,787
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2011
    Taichi Murakami SS17 derbies with asymmetric sole
    Non-sneaker footwear has been hard for me: I veer towards the "artisanal" style of clothing but I've sold every pair of footwear in that camp because I realized I don't like bulbous toeboxes or the stiffness of cordovan. These hit a sweet spot for me: soft thick vachetta leather, toebox that's only slightly bulbous, a "dusty white" color that's darkened to more of a yellow with wear. Plus Taichi is one of my favorite designers at the moment, so it goes well with my other stuff of his.
    I wear them all the time, and they're currently the only non-sneakers I own besides dress shoes (got some Vass boots incoming though).
    Idol_05.31.17-026.jpg

    Geoffrey B. Small FW17 ETC03B Coat
    I think no photos will do this justice. I saw this coat in the FW17 runway video and just knew I wanted it. Most stores slept on it though, so I did a special preorder.
    The wool is incredibly soft and leads to a really flow-y drape that can only be felt / seen in motion. GBS is really making garments that both hit all the checkboxes of a true designer while also reaching the pinnacle of the craft.
    [​IMG]
     


  7. 1969

    1969 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,749
    Likes Received:
    1,029
    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    ^GBS Coat looks incredible.

    My most worn purchases this year were OL x Vans black authentics and an Arc 'teyrx Veillence Quoin black jacket that looks basic but is lightweight, drapes nicely and feels comfy anywhere between 70-35f.


    download.jpg

    images.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017 at 8:51 AM


  8. Parker

    Parker Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,956
    Likes Received:
    13,359
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Good question. It wasn't so much needing a new direction, but coming to terms with reality -- where I live and work (casual places), my lifestyle (desk work and walking a lot -- comfortable shoes, man!), what looks good with my proportions (short and not that thin), and my naturally conservative tastes (boring solids, traditional garments). I love cool stuff from Yohji and Dries or interesting 70s influenced design, but a lot of what I was buying ended up in the back of the closet. I like the idea of really wanting to wear everything I have. So, I'm kinda back to Basics with Interesting Knits and Outerwear (BIKO). I still appreciate volumnious sillhouettes, wild prints, thematic or conceptual stuff. But I lean more like Dries in his navy chinos, blue dress shirt and navy crewknit -- while he makes brocaded harness shirts and ornate tapestry overcoats.
     


  9. Callusing

    Callusing Senior Member

    Messages:
    383
    Likes Received:
    191
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Location:
    San Diego
    This year was a big year for me...it's the first year I finally felt like I almost knew what I was doing. It was also far and away the most expensive year I've ever had, though that was partially offset by selling maybe 80% of what I owned in 2016 over the course of 2017, alongside a new job and moving across the country twice and some serious personal turbulence. I also had a brief war with what was, in retrospect, a period of outright shopping addiction, which I now remain aware of at all times. (Upside: Confronting it has helped me have a much healthier relationship with both myself and my clothes)

    Broader trend:
    Simplification. I spent 2016 thinking way too hard about what I was wearing, and it showed...I collected a mix of independently nice pieces that didn't make sense with each other or with me. I had thousands of dollars of clothes, and didn't really enjoy any of them. So this year, I narrowed my aesthetic to what I knew I was comfortable with and worked within that. I've also started to buy multiples of anything I really like. It has actually been more rewarding to explore within these bounds, and to work to really refine a more narrowly-defined aesthetic, than it ever was to try to have a "varied" wardrobe.

    Favorite purchases:
    Outlier Strong Dungarees
    [​IMG]

    I bought these and at first almost returned them. Compared to slim dungarees, they're a lot more substantial, less breathable, less flexible...they feel much less techy than most of what Outlier makes. But once I wore em for a bit, I realized that's exactly why they're so good. These are truly heavy-duty pants that are a hell of a lot easier to wear than thick denim, but no less durable and with very similar visual properties (texture, drape, etc). They're perfect for my day-to-day, and I've bought 3 pairs after the first.

    Runners-up:
    Falcon Garments Whiskey Suede T1 | As described below, Charly made the process easier than I ever could have expected, and the final product blew me away. It was the first leather jacket I've ever owned that really felt like it was made for me, and it still makes me happy every time I put it on.

    Eidos Napoli Hine Cashmere Sweater | The best sweater I own, and might be #1 if I'd had more occasion to wear it. The texture, both visually and tactually, is subtle and yet nuanced, the fit is slim without being constraining, and the whole design radiates the sort of quiet composure and confidence I see in a lot of Eidos's stuff. It's just a lovely piece.
    [​IMG]

    Helbers Colorblock Sweater | My thoughts are unchanged back when I first bought this...it's a simple and well-worn design that's done exceptionally well, and the quality is the best I've ever handled in a cotton sweater. Unfortunately, I haven't had as much luck with Helbers' other stuff, but I still love pulling out this guy.

    [​IMG]

    Band of Outsiders Cotton-blend bomber | I became a raving fan of BoO this year, and this jacket was a lot of what started it. It helps that BoO's jackets tend to fit me extremely well right off the rack, but I love the way Sternberg took really basic stuff and (most of the time) didn't fuck with them too much, but just made them a bit more modern and then brought the quality to a much higher level. All my BoO stuff is easy to wear anywhere and everywhere, but this bomber takes the cake.
    [​IMG]

    Biggest steal:

    It's a tie:

    Rider x Sassetti Antelme | I got these killer (and super comfortable) shell cordovan boots for like $280 straight from Ron. The bump toe isn't nearly as bad in person, and I find they work well with anything reasonably casual. And they just look badass.
    [​IMG]


    Raf AW06 Combats | My secondhand steal of the year, got these for like $275. Quality is phenomenal, as is the design. They've been stuck on the wrong side of the country for most of the year, so I haven't worn them much, but we'll be reunited soon.
    [​IMG]

    Most worn:

    Epaulet Combat Boots | A lot of bootmakers like to say their boots are as comfortable as sneakers. These actually are. The design is nothing special, nor is the quality - both are absolutely solid, which I'm totally OK with considering the $300 MSRP. They'll go with literally anything, and they're cheap and sturdy enough I have never felt the need to care for them or worry about wear or damage. I like em enough I'm buying a brown pair in the current horsehide drop.
    [​IMG]

    Best beater piece:

    Converse Jack Purcell Signature | I've got one pair in white canvas and one in black goat. The former took a bit of a break-in at first, but now they're both super comfortable (moreso than any Chucks I've ever worn) and very durable. I've sold almost all my other sneakers because I've rarely found myself reaching for anything other than these when I want to wear sneakers.

    New expensive habit:
    Watches. I got into watches. Geller's runway shows convinced me to get a G-Shock MTG:
    [​IMG]
    which has been followed by a Christopher Ward and a Greg Stevens, and will soon be followed by an Archimede and a Damasko. I'm thankful I sincerely have no taste for high-end Swiss brands, but it's still an expensive bunch of products. That said, I so enjoy wearing a watch now that it's worth it.

    Favorite purchase I returned:
    Blackmeans suede biker | Any regulars on the leather jackets thread know my love for this piece already...when I hear people talk about a jacket feeling "like armor", I never understood it until I threw on this beast. The suede feels like it could stop a bullet, the gold hardware contrasts perfectly, and even the lining uses a highly textured herringbone instead of the usual sleek satin finish. Unfortunately, my large shoulders do not fit Japanese design proportions, so I had to send it back (and if I sized up, it would be too large in the body), but it's still the best suede jacket I've ever laid my hands on.

    [​IMG]

    Runner-up is a Carpe linen shacket I bought and am currently trying to sell for the same reason - I don't think Carpe's fit models have ever seen the inside of a gym or lifted anything heavier than a pencil. But these jackets' reputation is well-earned...the quality of the fabric and construction is truly like nothing else I've ever held.

    Dumbest purchase:

    (Other than my 200+ bought and returned items from Yoox)
    Beat-up Visvim Virgils on eBay | I got super excited when I saw a pair of crepe Virgils on eBay in my size:
    [​IMG]
    Excited enough that I didn't really check the condition. Ended up paying $550 for a seriously beat-up pair (uppers are in decent shape, bottoms are close to needing a resole) that I'll maybe get $350 for when I sell em. Bright side is that this dumb purchase finally forced me to take a step back and re-evaluate my priorities. Also, I'm over Visvim in general...great stuff, but not worth the price to me anymore given the alternatives.

    Most disappointing purchase:
    (Categorically) Dries Van Noten Footwear | I bought and returned 4 pairs of Dries boots or shoes this year. I will give credit where it is due - from a pure design perspective, all were excellent, looking great on a shelf and even better on-feet. But the quality was bad. Not even "bad for the price", but outright bad, where if I saw these unlabeled at Zara or something like that, I'm not sure I would be able to tell them apart. I know he might have been trying to make his footwear lightweight or something like that, but the flimsy leathers and flip-flop-quality soles just don't do it for me on footwear that's hundreds of dollars even on sale. But at least having one less brand to look at makes things easier for me.
    [​IMG]

    Runner up are the Feit Hikers I bought and returned for very similar reasons.

    Favorite 2016 purchase in 2017:

    Stephan Schneider Thinner Jacket | A really nice, very warm and easy to wear jacket that has become my default piece to grab when it's cold out and I don't want to think about what to wear. I've got the navy, but if I see one come around in my size in burgundy, I'll nab it in a flash.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2017 at 10:12 AM


  10. Callusing

    Callusing Senior Member

    Messages:
    383
    Likes Received:
    191
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Location:
    San Diego
    pt. 2

    Favorite brand:
    Outlier I resisted Outlier for years, as I never was a huge fan of synthetics. (I started this whole business in raw denim, after all) Then I bought a pair of SDs on a whim in the middle of summer...and something just clicked. It's been great to watch Outlier evolve from a technical basics brand into something more fashion-driven (a topic I spent two hours defending this morning over on Reddit)...more importantly, a lot of their products have just kicked ass, like the Strong Dungarees (which, to me, finally accomplish the original goal of the Slim Dungarees - a true 21st century evolution of the denim jean) and Freecotton (the best damn casual button-ups I've ever worn...they're replacing my previous favorite, James Perse's matte button-ups, for way better quality at 40% of the cost). Through some serious luck on the secondhand market, I went from having no Outlier in my closet at the start of the year to having 10 pieces by the end of the year, and every single one of them has allowed me to get rid of or sell at least one other piece I previously owned. Viewed that way, Outlier to me offers the best value proposition in the business right now. (I also admire what Abe & co have done as businessmen, but that's another topic entirely)

    Runners-up:
    Eidos
    | Their knits are on another level. It'll be interesting to see where the brand goes from here, but I couldn't get enough of the sweaters they put out in late 2016 and throughout this year, and I regret missing out on their insanely badass cotton canvas moto.

    Viberg | The real deal. Over the last 18 months, they've transitioned from a workwear brand to something much closer to a fashion brand, with some really interesting makeups both on their own site and in collaboration with stores. (Division Road in particular put out some exceptional makeups this year) Their finishing is also truly top-of-the-heap now, at least in the pairs I've gotten. I bought 3 pairs this year (all secondhand), Stealth and Mocha Vintage boots from 3sixteen and my favorite of the bunch, a goodyear welted pair in grey Guidi calf. All are amazing and work with absolutely every casual fit.

    Falcon Garments | Finally pulled the trigger and got a Falcon this year - a whiskey lamb suede T1. It immediately became my favorite leather jacket, and maybe my favorite jacket period. Yes, the value proposition is exceptional, but I think the subtle modernization of classic shapes Charly & co offer is an underrated element of why Falcon is so good. I'll be picking up two more in 2018. Also, Charly led to a dramatic shift in my wardrobe a few months ago when he tactfully but clearly informed me I was wearing all my shit too tight...he was 100% correct, and the looser-fitting stuff I've bought ever since looks and feels 10x better than anything I was wearing before. Charly is the man.

    Wolf vs Goat | I didn't buy as much WvG this year as previous years (largely due to buying more other stuff), but the brand seemed to really find its own this year. Mauro seems much happier than he was last year, things are selling better, and he's regularly putting out awesome product. At the end of 2016, I was nervous about WvG's future, but I'm very excited for WvG's 2018.

    Ministry of Supply | To put in one entrant that isn't SF-approved...these guys seriously stepped up their product quality this year, and I've converted most of my business wardrobe to MoS. Their stuff is nowhere near as "nice" as a good cotton shirt or high-end wool pant, but it's all easy - easy to buy, easy to wear, and most of their stuff happens to fit me perfectly right off the rack. For somebody who has spent the last 3 years wrestling with half a dozen brands and a handful of tailors to find something that fits my build without paying out the nose for it, it's been a massive relief.

    Brand I got over:
    Rick Owens | I started the year going hard into Rick...I bought an Oiled Calf stooges, some blazers, lots of other stuff. Then I realized, in order: (1) I looked like a try-hard douchebag wearing this stuff (not everybody does, but it's just not me), (2) I hated feeling like I had to baby my clothes, and (3) the quality on some of Rick's stuff has gotten so bad that even at firesale, 70%-off prices it's still cheap and fragile compared to other things I could buy for the same amount of money. So while I'm tempted to buy a pair of Rick boots or a new leather every once in a while, on the whole I'm liquidating all my RO, and much happier with the quieter, more substantial stuff that's been replacing it.

    (Runners up are Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten for precisely the same reasons)

    Goals for 2018:
    I am hoping to continue to pare down my wardrobe throughout 2018, and to get to the point I know a lot of the forum vets are, where 80% of my wardrobe is stuff I absolutely know I love and can wear year-in, year-out and then a small fraction shifts around that. I've got 2 falcon jackets (brown suede DR1, black goat collared moto, maybe a third as a grey suede M1), 2 watches, 2 boots (both Vibergs from Division Road) and a whole bunch of businessy stuff (including multiple suits) on my list for the coming year, but I'm hoping that beyond that, I can keep my purchases near zero.

    My other, more important goal is to spend less time thinking and reading about clothing in general. I track every hour I spend online, and shopping for and reading about clothing was a part-time job for all of this year, and a full-time job for me for a couple particularly bad months. I'd like to get to the point where it's a 10-hour-per-week hobby where I'm really enjoying the time I spend.

    Thanks to everybody in SF who helped me out or provided interesting discussion over the course of this year.
     


  11. t3hg0suazn

    t3hg0suazn Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,035
    Likes Received:
    1,787
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2011


  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    8,816
    Likes Received:
    15,027
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    My 2017 Purchase Highlights:


    IMG_0781.JPEG


    Best CM Trousers: On the CM side, @UrbanComposition introduced me to Tailor's Keep in San Francisco. They're a small tailoring shop that does MTM and bespoke clothing. I normally avoid places like this -- it's run by a young guy named Ryan, their cutter isn't present at fittings, and the interior decor is kind of hip and heritage-y. It's the sort of place a cynic like me assumes is more about marketing than craft.

    Turns out, their work is great, which has made me really rethink my prejudices about clothing businesses. They're waaaayyy cheaper than bespoke trousers from traveling British tailors, and I find the work to be more stylish (so long as you tell Ryan you want things on the more classic side of things). I also find they simply fit better than my bespoke Italian pants (look at how UC's pants, pictured above, cleanly fall at the back -- hard to get in RTW, I find). Even though Ryan doesn't have his cutter present at fittings, he simply tries a lot harder than most, I think, to get things right. Or at least that's my only explanation. Anyway, so happy to find a local place to buy bespoke pants at reasonable prices. Bought a pair of cavalry twill trousers that I love, but plan to go back to buy some whipcords and some SWD-ish trousers I can wear with leather jackets and topcoats.

    Ryan is also just a super nice, down to earth guy, which is really refreshing in the CM world, I think.


    23896-02-Img1721_1470094537.jpg


    Best SWD Trousers:
    I can't remember if I bought these in December of last year or January of 2017, but they're wide legged, heavy Melton wool pants from Tomorrowland. They fit huge -- huge -- and I love them. I think they go well with chunky cream colored sweaters and long topcoats. Got them on sale at Unionmade. Just one of the things I bought this year that was huge and oversized, which I guess is part of a theme for me this year. Really experimented with silhouettes -- an oversized "game day" t-shirt from Chimala, oversized Robert Geller Thomas bomber, oversized Kapital Ring Coat (can't remember when I bought that), an oversized E. Tautz boucle sweater, etc. Feel like these Tomorrowland pants inspired some of those purchases, and got me out of my comfort zone in terms of how I like clothes to fit.


    tumblr_inline_oytm6wKBFw1qfex1b_500.png

    Best SWD Outerwear: Easily this Kaptain Sunshine Traveller coat, although mine is in navy. I guess it's kind of oversized, but not in an exaggerated way. It's roomy, thick, and super awesome. Such a simple coat -- a collar that flips up nicely, a patched ticket pocket, and some equestrian-inspired leg straps inside that I never use but still like. I just think it's so easy to wear. You could be wearing a bunch of boring stuff from J. Crew -- slim jeans or chinos with a boring sweater or shirt -- and this coat alone will make you look great.


    kaptain5.jpg

    A very, very close second place here is Kaptain Sunshine's photographer jacket, which is kind of kooky in terms of fit -- a bit round, like their current season's "flying jacket" -- but it's winter right now, so their Traveller coat is more on my mind. The photographer jacket has tons of pockets, which you'll fiddle with when trying to find your card case. So absurd, but so great. Also inspired by something Andy Warhol once wore to China, and I like that backstory.


    tumblr_inline_olcck9ZBVh1qfex1b_500.jpg

    tumblr_inline_olccxwIppJ1qfex1b_500.jpg

    Best New Brand: Speaking of Kaptain Sunshine, they're easily my favorite brand for 2017. Slightly quirky and offbeat takes on Americana, workwear, and heritage clothing -- like LL Bean with a sense of humor and a lot more style. Hardly the only brand doing this sort of thing, but they do it so well! They feel a bit more experimental in terms of silhouettes, such as those aforementioned jackets that fit like bubbles. Most importantly -- **and thank the Lord Almighty** -- they're a Japanese company that doesn't cut shirts or jackets with super narrow shoulders. It just makes their stuff so much easier to wear.


    tumblr_inline_ou1pbcCdki1qfex1b_500.jpg

    tumblr_inline_ou1o2iwfcL1qfex1b_500.jpg

    Best CM Shoe Purchase: Bought a couple of pairs of custom split-toes from Saint Crispin's, a company that makes these beautifully shaped, half-hand-welted, half-wooden-pegged shoes in Romania (literally Transylvanian shoes). I bought one pair in suede; the other in crust leather. The suede pair has a "monogram" of my cat on the soles.

    Again, totally ridiculous, but I love my cat.


    03-22_Product-5613_1024x1024.jpg

    Best SWD Shoe Purchase: I'm still mostly wearing side zip boots, including this pair of suede Margiela Campuses. They have a high heel and slightly distressed sole. Also one of the few Margiela boots I own where the quality isn't a total letdown. Recently picked up a pair of those Lucchese Jonah side zips in tan suede, but they've yet to arrive.

    I guess at the moment, however, I'm really into this simple pair of black boots from Pretziada. They're supposedly inspired by something European shepherds used to wear (or still wear?). They're really chunky, have a weird fold over tongue, and the facings overlap (facings being where you find the eyelets). They're kind of a pain in the ass to put on, because of how those facings overlap, but I like how they look. Really dig @Synthese's black Visvim Folk 73 boots, and thought about getting those this year, but figured these might be more versatile with my wardrobe. You just have to get longer shoelaces than what they provide as stock, so you can get these boots open wide enough to easily slip in your foot. Not hard to find though.


    tumblr_oq5ijqjcfA1qa2j8co1_1280.jpg

    Best Boring Basics: Some good basics this year too. Really like these boxy, slightly oversized t-shirts from Uniqlo, which @shoreman1782 put me on to. I think they were like $5 when I bought them. I bought a couple in navy and white, but really only wear the white (often with this French chore coat in the summer -- vintage is the way to go, I think, but mine is a collab E. Tautz made with Barbour. The new one at Union in Los Angeles also looks cool). These Uniqlo tees came in either a plain cotton jersey or this waffle knit, and I like the second better. Only $5!! Almost feels like something you'd expect to find from Dana Lee.

    I also bought a couple of basic plaid flannel shirts from J. Crew's Wallace & Barnes. The fabric is sturdier than J. Crew's mainline and they come in handsome colors/ designs. Not the most exciting, but everyone needs to wear shirts and these come to about $60 on sale. The blue plaid one, which you can still find on eBay, looks great with blue jeans.


    unnamed-1.jpg

    Best Anticipated Delivery: Have a couple of exciting CM projects in the works, but they sadly didn't get completed this year, so ... I guess this falls into best "anticipated delivery?" Have a pair of split toes coming from a bespoke shoemaker named Nicholas Templeman. Bought a pair of shoes from him last year, and these are inspired by some hunt derbies made by JM Weston (mine, in their half-made stage, are pictured above). Also have a pair of basic brown wingtips from GJ Cleverley. Color turned out darker than I expected on the fitting shoes, but they looked nice and I'm excited to try their slightly squared off toe shape (their house signature). Lastly, have a tan gabardine suit in the works with Steed, but at the fitting, the color seemed a bit too light. Worried the suit might be a little too attention grabbing for me, but I guess I won't know until next year. I might look a bit Miami-Vicey in this thing.


    20eafdeeaad14b8b1bd356ceb242cacd.jpg

    Bit of a Bust: Also some things that were a bit of a bust. Edward Green butterfly loafers, which I bought because I liked a pair a friend of mine has from a shoemaker named Anthony Delos. I think I just like my CM clothes to be fairly innocuous and conservative, which means these odd butterfly loafers just get passed over for plain penny straps all the time (pictured above is the same Edward Green model, but mine are in brown). Some Tracksmith running gear bought on clearance, but doesn't fit right (also, the pullover running shell was probably overkill for my very modest three mile runs). Dark brown Margiela five-zip wasn't necessarily a bust, but I wish I hadn't bought it. I think the five-zip does in better in more modern, non-traditional colors such as navy, tan, and black. Dark brown feels a bit out-of-sync with the design, although it looks better with gray jeans than blue.


    image15.jpg

    Best Non-Clothing Purchase: I feel like a total tool posting this, but someone gave me an Aeropress as a present after I complimented them on their coffee (one of the few cups of coffee I really, really enjoyed). Anyway, having just received this Aeropress, I went out and bought a Baratza grinder, Fellow Stagg EKG kettle, American Weigh scale, and some nicer coffee beans. The experience of really making your own coffee, using good beans and equipment, has totally changed my morning routine. I've always been a tea person (strong shoutout to Lishan High Mountain oolongs), but coffee can be really delicious. This stuff is good, man.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2017 at 9:37 PM


  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    9,063
    Likes Received:
    616
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    I’m jealous you can find a good local trouser guy, I cannot think a single guy in NYC go for less than 500 once going outside RTW
     


  14. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,546
    Likes Received:
    644
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    DWW, Have you posted photos of your completed Templeman and Cleverly shoes?
     


  15. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,546
    Likes Received:
    644
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    is there anyone in NY that makes trousers for $500?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by