Best Made to Measure/Bespoke Option in Alberta (Harry Rosen, Henry Singer, Holt Renfrew, ?)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by primetimeseano, Apr 22, 2013.

  1. primetimeseano

    primetimeseano Senior member

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    Hi guys,

    I live in Edmonton and I'm in the market for a made to measure or bespoke suit (and shirts as well). Up until now, I've always worn OTR suits and had them tailored, but I'm tired of not being able to find anything that fits quite right. I'm 5'10", 190 pounds with a pretty muscular build, so I have problems finding pants with enough room in the thighs and jackets that fit my shoulders and arms without being too big around the midsection.

    My budget is around $1,000 to $1,200 per suit. As far as I can tell, my only real options are Harry Rosen, Henry Singer and Holt Renfrew. I could also drive down to Calgary to go to the Brooks Brothers store. There are a few travelling tailors that come through the city from time to time, but reviews on them tend to be mediocre at best and non-existent at worst.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!
     


  2. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Do a search for Samuelsohn on the forum. The consensus is that it's one of the best values for mtm (in Canada especially).

    You can get a mtm Samuelsohn for $1k at Harry Rosen during trunk shows.

    BB isn't a good value for mtm; their half-canvassed models start at around $1500.
     


  3. LeviMay

    LeviMay Senior member

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    I live in a smaller city near Edmonton, and have been using S. Cohen for MTM suits and sport jackets. Since my first order a couple years ago, the quality has increased exponentially, and they usually come in a couple (few?) hundred dollars less than Coppley from Harry Rosen.

    In Edmonton, I know that Colony Clothing in West Ed deals with Cohen.

    That said, I've had a few Coppley done at Rosen, and it is uber-nice stuff.
     


  4. primetimeseano

    primetimeseano Senior member

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    Thanks, guys. I was looking at Coppley and Samuelsohn, but this is the first I've heard of S. Cohen.
     


  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Maxwells Clothiers are solid and reliably good quality. They are based out of Hong Kong but do visit Canada, USA and Australia, etc.
    I ordered several shirts in Sea Island & Egytpian cottons and a suit from them many years ago and was very happy with their service and work. If you try them for suits, have an extra pair of pants made and rotate the pants with each suit wear. They'll last for a long long time.
    Here is their shirting cloth charts:
    http://www.maxwellsclothiers.com/shirtorder/egyptiancotton_list.htm

    You're in luck too, they'll be visiting Edmonton in May.

    http://www.maxwellsclothiers.com/
    Click on 'Our Visits', then select your country.
    It will take you to a page where you click your state or province.
    They also serve women, if that may be of interest.
    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013


  6. primetimeseano

    primetimeseano Senior member

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    I actually have a few shirts from Maxwells and they've been pretty solid. The fit could have been a little bit better, but that's fixable. I've heard mixed reviews on the suits though. Has anyone else purchased one recently?
     


  7. A Canuker

    A Canuker Senior member

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    Quality ranking is Samuelsohn clearly first followed with Coppley and S. Cohen for Canadian makes IMO. I would have a look in your local phone book for a actual tailor in town who makes suits and then go visit them to see the operation in person. I would imagine that there has to be a few suit makers in town as there are some here in Calgary.

    Here in Calgary I use Henry's tailoring to make my stuff but I source my own cloth and a suit will run around 1K give or take a bit but it is well worth the investment. If nothing works up north I would consider the drive. This is the latest jacket I had made for which I bought the fabric in LA but it ran me $750 to have made.

    [​IMG]
     


  8. primetimeseano

    primetimeseano Senior member

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    Is Henry's a local place in Calgary?

    Where do you typically buy your fabrics from? Do you find it saves you money or just improves the quality significantly since you have complete control?
     


  9. A Canuker

    A Canuker Senior member

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    Henry's is a small local tailor here in town yes, I've bought fabric here on the forum, in person at fabric shops and on the net. There are lots of good threads here in the MC area about fabric makers and what to expect from the different companies. Henry has some very nice stuff in his shop and if I wasn't a bit of a "dandy" I'd never waste the time trolling through different ideas for a new suit or coat but SF will do that to you. There is a cost savings I think as Henry only charges me for his time plus a profit and I don't have to pay his supplier for thier profits etc. Does it save me a ton, I'm not sure but I think compared to buying the same stuff from Rosen's via Zegna MtM I get a better deal. Another store here told me that you can buy fabric and have Samuelson make a suit for you but I am not sure if this is true or not.

    If you want to consider buying the fabric yourself I would start with doing some searching here and lots of reading.

    http://www.moodfabrics.com/index.php I bought some stuff from this shop while in LA last month.

    http://www.tiptopfabrics.com/ Lots of the guys here on the forum have talked about this shop in NY but I've never done buisness with them.

    I would also have a look at googleing "huddersfield fabric" which is a town in England who is famous for the suiting fabric over the years if you are into the English cloth, lots of product comes from there.

    Best thing to do is search here first and get a good idea of what you are wanting and need. Henry has done a good job for me and I will use him in the future without a doubt yet I had read the same thing about another tailor here in Calgary who "walked on water" but he destroyed some amazing cloth that I bought on the forum which still makes me want to rage. Nothing is more annoying than spending good money on cloth and more on "skill" to end up with something you can't stand to look at.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013


  10. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    I've used a local tailor in Calgary for a number of years (it is not Henrys though). While the first several iterations were less than perfect, and I don't pretend the current results are world class, for the price I get tailored stuff that is nicer looking, better made and cheaper than most of the common better brands.

    I never used the MTM services of the brands mentioned above but a good friend has with some success but he is easy to fit off the rack. The tailoring process is a bit more involved as you need to be willing to try a few versions before you really start to find what you like. With MTM, you sort of start the process fresh each time but there are fewer degrees of freedom and hence fewer things to go horribly wrong.

    Also as A Canuker notes, some local tailors don't carry a large selection of sample books from the big name cloth houses. The one I use has Ariston, Zegna, H&S and VB but none of the otehr British names (Smiths, Minnis, Harrisons, Drapers, etc). The selection they have is decent enough for a first couple suits and covers a range of prices. They have a sale a few times a year where you can get a 2 piece suiit in one of their house (VB) fabrics for $600. At that price, you can have a few iterations with low risk.

    If you want to use other fabrics you need to source your own which requires extra legwork (and some sell only to the trade). I get almost all my fabric from mail order in the UK and Italy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013


  11. primetimeseano

    primetimeseano Senior member

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    Do you guys find the fabric you buy yourself holds up better than the standard stuff, or is it more about getting a suit that's unique and/or specific?
     


  12. A Canuker

    A Canuker Senior member

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    It's more of the unique or specific I think. It's hard to say as most of us have a larger collection of suits and SC/pants to rotate around so they don't get used as often as others.
     


  13. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Not specifically about fabric holding up better but about selection. Calgary is a cold place and I wanted some real wollen flannel suits and could not find any so ordered some - that was my first order. Since then I have ordered other fabrics that were not available for specific reasons (fresco for summer, some more unique patterns in flannel, real tweed). I have since also tried some more classic fabrics - I just received some 16oz Lessers ( which has a very unique feel relative to modern suit fabric) and real Harris Tweed which is about twice as thick and really spongy as the jackets sold as Harris Tweed.

    So started by looking for things that were simply not available locally and have since expanded to try more traditional cloths. That they have held up well is a bonus.
     


  14. JCPhoto

    JCPhoto Well-Known Member

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    I've used Henry before but only ever for alterations. The work he did was quite good but I was put off from using his services again because when I went in to pick up the alterations they hadn't been finished yet... Three times in a row for the same alterations. He was super apologetic about the situation and ended up giving me 50% off the cost of the alterations but it was still quite annoying, enough so to keep me away for the last 6 months. It's good to know that he does CMT though(thanks for the heads up A Canuker), I didn't know that and I want to get a SC made out of Minnis fresco but nobody here carries the stuff as bertie said above.

    I currently use Giovanni Nicoletti at The Tailor Store in SW Calgary and can recommend him highly, if you're making the trip down here it's worth a visit. He's a very kind old Italian man that's been in the business for a lifetime, super knowledgeable and his passion for tailoring is evident as soon as you start talking to him, he also really enjoys seeing young people show an interest in his craft and will talk to you for ages about it if you let him/want to. His shop is one of very few places in Western Canada that you can get legitimate full bespoke but he also does MTM and alterations on RTW stuff. Cloth's are Zegna, H&S, and Dormieul primarily, I haven't asked him if he does CMT so I'm not sure there. Up until about a month ago I'd only ever used him for alterations but I just commissioned my first bespoke suit from Gio, a 3pc in a navy H&S worsted with a bit of surface texture. I've done my first fitting and the second should be next week, I was surprised how little needed adjusting in the first fitting and very excited to see the end result. MTM for a 2pc starts at $1200 and full bespoke just north of 2k.

    I'll be bringing my camera to the second fitting and I'll try to post back with a few shots of the shop.
     


  15. FaceOfBoh

    FaceOfBoh Senior member

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    I'm late to the conversation but I think some of this may have been covered in the Edmonton thread:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/96017/any-other-edmontonians-here/0_20

    I seem to remember John the Tailor mentioned, whose in City Center Mall downtown. You might want to drop FidelCashflow a line; he might know something about this (I please ignorance because I'm more into the thrift store and vintage scenes).
     


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