Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ThinkDerm, Mar 5, 2013.
Is this your first major watch purchase? If so i would recommend getting the Patek. Lange's are really beautiful pieces and imo they have the best finishing of any brand but for your first one i would recommend Patek
Your choices are narrowing down nicely...very nice top 3.
In the Lange v. Lange battle, you truly can't go wrong with either and both are absolutely stunning in real life. If you are looking for a classic dress watch, the roman numerals and large seconds hand of the Richard Lange give it the edge. The RL movement is slightly more advanced but that is secondary to appearance for most buyers. Go with your gut on Roman vs. Arabic numerals and large versus small seconds hand here as both are obviously top notch movements with beautiful finishing.
I know the Patek is a Patek, but as has been mentioned previously, I and many others find the non-complicated Pateks to be far less interesting than their more fairly priced competitors.
Either way though you will have an heirloom piece on your hands. Congrats and best of luck.
Parmiginai Tonda 1950 or Moser Mayu, both elegant understated choices from non-conglomerate brands.
I've seen that Parmigiani in person and just love it.
For a staple dress watch: the 1815.
If you are willing to step up the size and get a Richard Lange, I'd look at a gold Portuguese first. If you are into watches, and you want classics, you'll need to get a Portuguese sooner or later. It's one of the great must haves.
what do people think about De Bethune, specifically the DB2?
I'm not a fan. I find their styling and finishing very bizarre. Hard to believe someone interested in a 3919 would find much appeal a DB2. What do you like about it? To my mind, we're talking about two totally different animals. If you want a classic watch with time-tested design, I would not go the De Bethune route.
If I were going to get a Calatrava, I would not get one with the hobnail bezel. I much prefer the old 5053:
Not sure if they still have an officer's model in the lineup, but it's truly gorgeous. Still, if it were my $15k, I'd get one of these to accompany my steel version:
A truly flawless watch face and perfect proportions--so long as you can live with the 42mm diameter. Quality of finishing on the movement is equal to what you find in a Patek, though far more Germanic. Plus, you get a movement with complications: seven-day reserve and power reserve meter.
Actually, if it were money, I'd be patriotic and get an RGM 801:
First movement made (and designed) in America in forty years, in-house at RGM. Only the hairspring is sourced from the Swiss. The case and guilloche dials are also U.S-made.
Movement finishing is really top notch. You can stipulate gold or nickel plating. Dial and case can also be customized.
Matt, thanks for your input.
What makes you not a fan of this watch?
The funky funhouse lugs combined with the thick, fat bezel. Strikes me as exceedingly clumsy looking.
People are always harping on and on about case diameters. I don't care for the super-huge watch trend, but proportions are more important to pay attention to. A 42mm watch with an elegantly thin bezel will look a lot less chunky than a 38mm watch with a tractor tire around its dial.
Why not a fan of the hobnail on the Patek 3919?
I don't mind it so much, but prefer not to have it. I guess I don't like the faux-classic pretense. Patek added it to the Calatrava (I believe in the 70's or early 80's) specifically to distinguish their watches as Pateks. To me, a Patek is a worthwhile watch for its intrinsic attributes, not the branding.
What are the dimensions on that RGM? It looks big and thick.
I believe it's 42mm, like the Portuguese. The movement is pocket watch sized, at 16 ligne.
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