Best English Dress Shoe (Oxfords)

[MontyChapman]

I've only ever worn Clark's and they've been good to me over the many years. I'm having a mini wardrobe upgrade and I thought I would invest in a pair of black Oxfords.

I did acquire a pair of Peal & Co for Brooks Brothers Brogues this week and they are quite nice (brand new at a sale). So, I am looking for a notch above a Peal & Co pair, in terms of quality (and comfort if possible). I was told Peal & Co were C&J but when I checked the C&J website, Peal & Co had different broguing patterns.

Anywho, I was wondering who would be the best shoemaker listed below? For a good pair of Oxfords with supple and soft-ish leather whilst still long-lasting and durable?

Shoemakers I am considering: C&J, Edward Green, John Lobb, Church, Cheaney, Tricker's, Barker, Jones

 

[nmprisons]

Monty, you've suggested shoemakers across a wide range of quality and price. If the question is really "best" from that group, then it's probably something like:

Edward Green/John Lobb (similar tier, probably dependent on which line you choose)
Crocket and Jones
Church's
Cheaney/Tricker's

I haven't handled a Church shoe made after they were bought out maybe a decade ago, so I'm not sure if there still is a gap between them and Cheaney/Tricker's. I've never handled a Jones shoe, and am unfamiliar with the brand.

The only shoemakers on your list that are a clear notch above your Peal shoes w/r/t quality would be EG and JL. But comfort depends on your foot and their lasts and whether you buy the right size. Can't help you there.

 

[MontyChapman]

Monty, you've suggested shoemakers across a wide range of quality and price. If the question is really "best" from that group, then it's probably something like:

Edward Green/John Lobb (similar tier, probably dependent on which line you choose)
Crocket and Jones
Church's
Cheaney/Tricker's

I haven't handled a Church shoe made after they were bought out maybe a decade ago, so I'm not sure if there still is a gap between them and Cheaney/Tricker's. I've never handled a Jones shoe, and am unfamiliar with the brand.

Thanks for your reply! I've been scanning old threads whilst awaiting replies and it does seem EG and Lobb tie on top.

I was wondering what differentiates a pair of EG/Lobb from a C&J pair? Is it the leather quality or construction method? (As you can tell, I am a complete newbie...)

 

[mebiuspower]

EG uses higher quality leather and closed channel soles. C&J offer closed channel soles but only on their handgrade line.

 

[ducatiti]

Also, please note that there are two levels of C&J/Peal... Handgrade/Benchgrade.

Brooks Brothers had lots of C&J last year to include shell cordovan pairs which they all sold already. I believe that there no longer English shoes available. Managed to grab like 5 pairs of shell, and 4 calf and 1 suede (all C&J). I also go lucky to find and purchase to find a pair of Edward Green's.

Great similar source is Paul Stewart fyi.. They have a 30% + 20% sale at the moment. Just look out for "English Footwear" or so on the title upon your search, others may be Italian shoes or so.. I managed to snag two handgrades recently.

 

[MontyChapman]

Also, please note that there are two levels of C&J/Peal... Handgrade/Benchgrade.

Brooks Brothers had lots of C&J last year to include shell cordovan pairs which they all sold already. I believe that there no longer English shoes available. Managed to grab like 5 pairs of shell, and 4 calf and 1 suede (all C&J). I also go lucky to find and purchase to find a pair of Edward Green's.

Great similar source is Paul Stewart fyi.. They have a 30% + 20% sale at the moment. Just look out for "English Footwear" or so on the title upon your search, others may be Italian shoes or so.. I managed to snag two handgrades recently.

Will Brooks Bros. ever re-order a batch of Peal & Co. shoes? I hear they are a pure STEAL when they are on sale.

 

[MontyChapman]

EG uses higher quality leather and closed channel soles. C&J offer closed channel soles but only on their handgrade line.

By higher quality, does that mean the leather is more supple and softer or is it vice versa (more durable and stiffer)?

 

[ducatiti]

Will Brooks Bros. ever re-order a batch of Peal & Co. shoes? I hear they are a pure STEAL when they are on sale.

I don’t think so. Been checking for the past six months or so. Yes Prices were pure steals. Managed to purchase these shell boots for less than $500 with coupons and all. Created new accounts to avail the additional 20% off

More C&J shell below purchased for around $400.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think these questions are very subjective and it's more important to buy what you like and what fits you, rather than ideas about quality. FWIW, my favorite oxford is John Lobb's City II.

If you don't wear suits often (e.g., more than once a month), I recommend not buying black oxfords.

 

[ducatiti]

Just a tip, there are a bunch on Ebay but with marked up prices but still lower than retail. My suspicion is these sellers did the same as me

 

[MontyChapman]

I think these questions are very subjective and it's more important to buy what you like and what fits you, rather than ideas about quality. FWIW, my favorite oxford is John Lobb's City II.

If you don't wear suits often (e.g., more than once a month), I recommend not buying black oxfords.

I wear suits all the time!

I was eyeing the Lobb City II and the EG Chelsea - rival Oxfords. After purchasing a pair, how would you go about wearing it/caring for it? I was told to buy other cheaper pairs to wear in a cycle to lengthen the life of all the shoes collectively.

 

[dieworkwear]

I wear suits all the time!

I was eyeing the Lobb City II and the EG Chelsea - rival Oxfords. After purchasing a pair, how would you go about wearing it/caring for it? I was told to buy other cheaper pairs to wear in a cycle to lengthen the life of all the shoes collectively.

I have both the JL City II and EG Chelsea. I think the company now makes them on a last called the 915, but when I bought mine, they were only available on the 202. I generally like rounder, more conservative shoes, but the 202 feels a bit stubby to me for an oxford. I like the JL City IIs for their shape.

I wear my oxfords with suits when I get dinner.

Regarding care, I don't do anything different to my oxfords than other shoes. I use shoe trees and rotate my shoes. I don't polish my shoes very often, maybe once every few years. I brush them when they're dusty. That's about it.

 

[MontyChapman]

I have both the JL City II and EG Chelsea. I think the company now makes them on a last called the 915, but when I bought mine, they were only available on the 202. I generally like rounder, more conservative shoes, but the 202 feels a bit stubby to me for an oxford. I like the JL City IIs for their shape.

I wear my oxfords with suits when I get dinner.

Regarding care, I don't do anything different to my oxfords than other shoes. I use shoe trees and rotate my shoes. I don't polish my shoes very often, maybe once every few years. I brush them when they're dusty. That's about it.

How do they compare in terms of comfort?

 

[dieworkwear]

How do they compare in terms of comfort?

The same.

 

[ducatiti]

Per my suggestion above, here are C&J's for $385. Plenty others on the site..

https://www.paulstuart.com/clearanc.../chestnut-brown-cap-toe/412WESTBCHT-2198.html

Although, not English made shoes have you checked out TLB Mallorca? Reasonable priced but on the same level as C&J IMO. Lots of youtube reviews. Cobbler Union also has a "Last Call" sale with Oxfords at $199.. Here are a couple recently purchased:

I have these incoming for $199. You can't go wrong. IMO, CU is above the level of both AE and Carmina. For one C&J at MSRP, you can purchase 3 Cobbler Union's at their Last Call sale.

https://www.cobbler-union.com/collections/last-call/products/robert-cognac-calf-371