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Best Chesterfield RTW Coat (cost irrespective)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lordofpi, Oct 29, 2008.

  1. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    I am really lacking in the overcoat department, and I have decided to make it my goal this winter to finally, after years of "roughing the cold," get up to par with proper winter outerwear. My primary concern is to first begin with the coat that can be worn anywhere without being too casual (I am always suited; opting for the formal makes sense to me). While I was thinking of seeing what overcoats (that was the only term I knew prior to having DAFS all over here, the LL, and others) Burberry had available, I now know that the Chesterfield is what I specifically desire. A quick scouring of their website revealed that they don't actually carry such a garment, technically speaking. This leads me to look to other, more specialized sources.

    I'd like to know what some of your opinions on who the top RTW makers of this garment are. For the sake of discussion, let cost not be an issue. I'll weed that out as necessary in my final decision. As far as polos, raglans, and British warms, these are all secondary in importance compared to my narrow focus on the Chesterfield. As my post ought to reveal, I am a rather novice when it comes to this area so, as always, your opinions and help are appreciated.
     
  2. pajames

    pajames Well-Known Member

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    I got a nice one last year from Pakeman, Cato. It is a navy one but if I remember they had other colors and the price was reasonable.
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you find a topcoat you like, a tailor could add the velvet collar and then you have a Chesterfield.
     
  4. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    ^A very good point. I went back and checked the Burberry, but it is clearly more of a Balmacaan than anything. I am interested to see where this journey takes me.
     
  5. Mark from Plano

    Mark from Plano Senior member

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  6. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    Brooks Brothers makes a nice one.
     
  7. Mark from Plano

    Mark from Plano Senior member

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  8. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    Looks pretty good. I like the Hickey one a lot too, but as I said above, I'd like to stay with the traditional for my first.

    Is a ticket pocket normal on a Chesterfield?

    Also, what is proper sleeve length? Ought these coats to show any sort of cuff or ought they be well beyond that apex of the wrist-meets-hand arc that I strive to make my shirts hit? Previous coats I've owned were always long and girthy in sleeves, but I am wondering if this is actually correct, or if maybe it ought to fit just slightly larger than a heavy suit jacket.
     
  9. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    So it basically looks like BB or die? Not quite what I was expecting, but I'll take it if I have no better short-term (i.e., RTW) options. Last call for any other suggestions.
     
  10. kaxixi

    kaxixi Senior member

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    Could someone clarify the difference between a Chesterfield and a Paddock coat? I think I've seen Chesterfields at the RL mansion and at Paul Stuart, but want to make sure I know what they are before suggesting anything.
     
  11. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    It's my understanding that a Paddock coat is relatively similar to the Chesterfield except with a higher button stance, fuller skirt, sleeve cuffs, and hacking pockets. Also, and this seems most obvious, it seems that instead of a center vent, a Paddock has two inverted side pleats. Everything else (fly front, notch lapels, set-in sleeves, velvet collar) seems to be the same. I am just learning these ins-and-outs as well (most compliments to here and LL for the info), so anyone please correct me where I may have erred.
     
  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I would imagine a top RTW maker like Brioni would have something like this.
     
  13. theoldadage

    theoldadage Senior member

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    I saw an exquisite RLPL number on ebay but missed it...
     
  14. lordofpi

    lordofpi Senior member

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    My haberdasher is checking with Isaia to see what they will do. He thinks they have one available, but it would be a peak lapel with a ticket pocket (odd combo). I guess, at the end of the day, some sort of MTM program was going to be necessary. I'll report as things progress. Thanks for the help so far all!
     
  15. maxnharry

    maxnharry Senior member

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    Polo had one that was cashmere. Not sure if it's still available. There is a "Lauren" version also, but you don't want that.
     
  16. s4usea

    s4usea Well-Known Member

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    Actually, I picked one up on eBay last year for a whopping $47. It was vintage, which means it has details you don't find today, (such as tickng around the edge and velvet lined pockets). I had the tailor lengthen the sleeves so no cuff would be showing and replace the velvet collar which was a bit worn for a total cost, including purchase of $137.

    It looks amazing. I also have the BB cashmere overcoat and the Chesterfield is in another league altogether.
     
  17. r. rafael

    r. rafael Member

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    H. Herzfeld on 57th St. has a really fine Chesterfield that I tried on a few weeks ago.
     
  18. mps23

    mps23 Senior member

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    i have one i found at seize sur vingt's sister store that garners compliments & questions about its orgin wherever i go. it's a few inches shorter than the BB one, comes in brown or navy, fairly form fitting, interesting lining, etc.
     

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