best cashmere sweater

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by auto90403, Jan 6, 2005.

  1. auto90403

    auto90403 Senior member

    Messages:
    464
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Santa Monica, California/McLean, Virginia
    this month's GQ has a feature in which they list 47 new year's resolutions. one is to buy a first-rate men's cashmere sweater.

    the one the magazine suggests/recoomends is an editor's favorite -- from marc jacobs.

    how good is marc jacobs cashmere and what are some other contenders? loro piana?
     


  2. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

    Messages:
    13,141
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2004
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I have a MJ cashmere sweater, it's quite nice, fairly comparable to my LP cashmere sweaters, but honestly (and many may consider this blasphemous) there isn't a whole lot of difference in my experience between the LP sweaters and the ones made by J Crew of LP fabric, and the "fine gauge cashmere" sweaters from Express seem to be almost as good, I recently picked up one of these in navy for $50.
     


  3. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    Marc Jacobs is a designer. Someone else is making his sweaters; at most he dictates the cut, which can make a difference in how stylish the sweater is. However, he will have no input on the quality of the yarn used or most other parameters of a good cashmere sweater.

    I'm wearing a Ballantyne cashmere sweater right now and it's the best cashmere sweater I've owned. Soft yet tightly woven; warm; substantial but not bulky; minimal wear or pilling. Thing is, it's vintage. I have a new one that I haven't worn yet, and I fear that the quality of top Scottish cashmere may have declined. FYI both _are_ made in Scotland. I boguht a new N.Peal a few years ago and while it's nice, it seems to stretch and pill more than I would have expected. Brunello Cucinelli makes a fantastic cashmere sweater though. I own one Loro Piana cashmere-silk sweater and feel like it's nice, and I'd always wanted one, but it feels much flimsier than the other cashmere I own.
    Richard James' cashmere sweaters are nice, but I wouldn't pay retail for them (close to $1000). Many are made by Corgi, which is a good house but not quite up there with the very best.
     


  4. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

    Messages:
    1,528
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2002
    Location:
    New York City
    This statement is TOTALLY wrong. Honestly, nothing could be further from the truth.

    Designers most definately have a say in the quality of the material and an absolute say in the specs the garment is cut to. This is what "design" is.

    What do you mean when you say "Someone else is making his sweaters"? Of course he is outsourcing the garment to a factory... Marc Jacob is a design house not a manufacturer. It wouldn't be profitable/feasable for them own factories.
     


  5. stache

    stache Senior member

    Messages:
    316
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2004
    Mike is right.
     


  6. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

    Messages:
    2,414
    Likes Received:
    42
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    Location:
    NYC/Brooklyn
    Traditional knitwear brands for consideration: (some previously mentioned), top tier: Ballantyne, Loro Piana, Bruno Cucinelli, Colombo Mid-High Tier: Malo, TSE, Avon Celli All of my cashmere sweaters are from the second group. I'm sure various design houses offer top quality products, however, I can't recommend anything off the top of my head. Oh wait, If you have the opportunity to visit New York, the Beretta boutique has a few amazing 100% cashmere sweaters ($700-1200?), and a full length cashmere/rabbit-lined fur coat ($4-5000-ish) by an Austrian company I can't remember.
     


  7. Material Boy

    Material Boy Senior member

    Messages:
    272
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Avon Celli's millionaire cashmere sweaters are definitely one of the best money can buy. Kiton are also making some great cashmere, I saw one at Barneys New York on sale for a "mere" $950.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    34,613
    Likes Received:
    12,150
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Depends on the structure of the particular house. For example, Costume National has its own factories, and that seems to work for them, but I can't see the Ralph Lauren group doing this. Depends on how many brands, etc... are in the group. Even now, C'n'C, Costume's diffusion line, is outsourced.
     


  9. jrh

    jrh Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2003
    Malo sweat shirts

    Yummy
     


  10. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    Saw some of the Avon Celli Millionaire Cashmere sweaters at Filene's Basement. They were already incredibly pilled, though the Avon Celli normal cashmeres were fine. Are they that much more delicate?
     


  11. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

    Messages:
    565
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2003
    Mr. RJman is not entirely wrong either.
    A designer does not have control of the quality of the garment --- the factory does.  However, the designer can pick the factory.  Some designers pick a good factory/maker while others don't.

    For example, even if a designer wanted a high quality product, a factory in China would certainly not be able to meet it.  In a way, if he is stuck with that factory, he doesn't really have a say in the quality.  The only choice he (or his company) has is to change factory. That's the reason why Hermes 'makes' a better cashmere sweater than other Milanese designers. They all want to have a great product, but Hermes picks a great factory/maker.
     


  12. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

    Messages:
    565
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2003
    I will vote for Brunello Cucinelli, Avon Celli and Loro Piana for best cashmere sweaters.
     


  13. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    I think that's what I meant. Well, I was not entirely right, but designers are limited by their subcontractors' abilities. If the subcontractor can deliver, they can specify levels of quality in the manufacture of the garment, if they care.
     


  14. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    Well, American Apparel owns its own factory(s)...as does Zenga and Loro Piana.

    Total ownership in a factory is not necessarily required to assure required quality, partial ownership can satisfy that. I am sure that the RL Corp. owns stock in several of its manufacturing companies, or finds way to press its interests by other means.

    Jon.

    Well, American Apparel owns its own factory(s)...as does Zenga and Loro Piana.

    Total ownership in a factory is not necessarily required to assure required quality, partial ownership can satisfy that. I am sure that the RL Corp. owns stock in several of its manufacturing companies, or finds way to press its interests by other means.

    Jon.

    Out of curiosity, does anyone know which company produces the Cashmere items for RL Polo / RLPL? I have been trying to find out but with to no avail.
     


  15. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,582
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2003
    Avon Celli is definitely top-tier, many consider them the best.

    My favorite is Brunello Cucinello, based on styling. Sort of a sophisticated take on military and field clothing.

    A tip for Bergdorf Goodman shoppers: Some of their private label sweaters are (or at least were) made by Avon Celli and Brunello Cucinelli, though they are about half the price of the comparable branded items.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by