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Best Bespoke tailoring in New York City

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RobertP77, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Just some photos from the "official" site.

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    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  2. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    I like that; I think it keeps it balanced.
     
  3. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Well-Known Member

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    I saw Mr. Nicolosi recently on a bus home.

    He is still working, and he says that he is busy.
     
  4. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    I have yet to see an example from these more expensive tailors. Does anyone have any photos?
     
  5. etkl

    etkl Well-Known Member

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    I'm very happy to hear it.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I tried Ercole a few years ago. I would not recommend him - although I really wish I could.

    You won't meet a nicer guy who is easier to work with. full stop.

    The problem with Ercole is fit. You can quibble about the details (and I will in a minute) but each and every single Ercole jacket I've ever seen or owned suffers from a waist that's bigger than the shoulders. For a lot of guys, that unavoidable but for NYR (and myself) that absolutely should not be the case.

    Rob, I'm not trying to be a d-bag and I like your style quite a bit, but this makes it look like you have birthing hips when, in fact, you don't.
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    Frank made me a suit, two sportscoats and two pairs of pants. All of it was uncomfortable - and I told him that every time. As readily available photos will attest, I'm not a tough fit.

    When I picked up the third jacket, Frank said, somewhat apologetically, that he'd get it right on the fourth try. I didn't bother.

    At that price, I've used Chan and been much, much happier. They delivered something very much to my liking on the second attempt. The handwork - pic sticthing and buttonholes - are very clearly superior. They hand pad the lapels (not that it makes much of a difference) as a matter of course and with no surcharge.

    I left my Ercole things back in the old country but, if people are interested, I can take some comparison shots when I'm back in December.

    Again, if he can produce something you like, stay with him because he's one of the good guys but in my experience he just wasn't able to deliver. And I tend to think the problems are endemic.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  7. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    Cant- not sure if thats a fair pic to use...that jacket is one of my older ones, and prob one of my least favorite fit wise, PLUS the angle of the pic is too low. I wore it because I thought it was the bet to go with the purple flannel (obviously I was wrong) plus it was rainy and cold...I wonder if the color palate was a bit better on the ensemble, and the angle of the pic was changed, you'd have a different take on the fit of the coat. I'll try to get one like that tonight.

    I can't comment on your experiences with Frank, but of course I take your word, I also think that there are plenty of stinkers from higher end tailors as well. Its so subjective, and we haven't seen any pics from these other NY tailors. In fact, I often wonder if they actually exist or if they are some sort of urban legend (I'm kidding of course). And I think the conversation in and of itself is something that can't possibly be objective.

    Hope this isn;t taken as an attack, its not, just a furtherance of the discussion, which I think all of us can only benefit from.
     
  8. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    I want purple flannel pants.
     
  9. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    So you haven't seen any pics on this forum of Steed (Vox, Slewfoot), Anderson (Manton, whnay, RSS), Rubi (the usual suspects), Solito (Manton), Mina / NSM (several), Raphael (several) etc. etc.? Not to mention the easily available pics of other continental tailors available on Suitorial, Parisian Gentlemen, Permanent Style, etc.? There's no point in being disingenious by implying that none of those tailors have been on display.

    I agree with your point that those tailors sometimes bomb as well (its a handmade product, and the tailors are human). I just think the standard output of those tailors is superior to Ercole's.

    Cantabrigian perfectly described my issue with Ercole - birther-hips, what Eustace more politely called a pinched waist and wide skirt.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  10. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Rob,

    I want to emphasise that (all evidence to the contrary) I'm not trying to be a dick to you or Frank.

    Maybe it is the angle but it's a pretty consistent fault. The brown suit you poasted recently was even worse in that regard. You still look good - like a badass john Keating - but I'd mention it to him. Like I said (and as you well know) he's cool as can be and didn't seem averse to taking any tactful feedback.

    Im sure you're right that there are some sucky higher priced NY tailors. I've seen some Corvato things where the pic stitching was like poetry and some things with buttonholes that Indochino would be ashamed of. I've seen one Raphael suit IRL (Manton) and it was awesome. I've seen a bunch of great Nicolosi things in person but SmoothJazz seems to have a way with tailors and there are an equal number of horror stories about that guy.

    So I have no idea who is the best tailor in NY is. And even when I still lived there, it was pretty irrelevant to me since I've found better style and better value elsewhere.

    I'm a big believer that you don't know how good a tailor is until you've had a problem (and something will always come up) and its been resolved. If you have someone you like and work well with, never let him go. I just shared my experience for the benefit of the guy who is stretching to buy his first bespoke suit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  11. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Why aren't we seeing photos of the work by these superior tailors?
     
  12. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I thought they were blue.

    Which mill makes purple flannel? :facepalm:
     
  13. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    This thread has veered of its original topic limiting itself to "NY tailors", so simply do a search and you'll see dozens upon dozens of examples of Ercole's higher-priced cohorts (most of whom visit NY regularly). Is your gripe simply that someone is forcing you to use the search function?
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I actually think a lot of Steed stuff suffers from the same problem I mentioned with Ercole. Edwin makes his most Internet famous customer look a good deal stockier than he really is.
     
  15. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Ariston
     
  16. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    I meant New York tailors.
     
  17. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    The alternatives to Ercole include all the SR and Italian guys who regularly travel to NYC. So, if you're actually looking for a fair comparison that you should include them as well.

    Regardless, there are quite a few Raphael pics on the forum, as well Corvato pics on FNB and multiple Logsdail pics on all the different blogs and, most notably, on Bruce Boyer. When you're dealing with such a small universe of tailors (~5 top-flight tailors in NY, all of whom are much more expensive than the Europeans), it shouldn't surprise you that not that many pics are forthcoming.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  18. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    I was under the impression that the thread was about NYC tailors...of course, I've seen TONS of examples of SR and Italian stuff on here, just not many NY tailors. I don't consider travelling tailors who come to NY to be a part of that.

    Cantabrigian, I dodn't take your post as an attack on me or Frank, and I appreciate feedback. I did take pics tonight in the same sportcoat, and see what you're talking about...I'll mention it to Frank, but I kind of like the little "kick" he gives, and probably more importantly, my wife does...she says I have JLo ass, and she likes it...:embar: We're cool, man!
     
  19. mack11211

    mack11211 Well-Known Member

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    The pic of NYR in that tweed coat may be misleading as

    1 it is taken from a low angle, which would enlarge the lower part of the body and

    2 he is wearing a longsleeve sweater under the coat.

    The two factors together would make anyone look hippier, regardless of their proportions.
     
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Ok, here is Axelman's suit that I saw yesterday actually.

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