Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RobertP77, Feb 1, 2012.
6k I think.
Ok like any other bespoke prices then.
Well I start at 4 but I want to get it up to 6+ as soon as I can. The lack of people doing this, the lack of tailoring infrastructure plus a wealthy population puts these prices up.
Raph is more like $5K.
4k to 5k is very reasonable for a true Bespoke suit. These are also my prices including all taxes delivery 2 fitting and I use Dormeiul Royal Opera or Ermenegildo Zegna High performance. I am aiming to get the 6k also but it's not easy. Unfortunaelty customers think that we are getting rich on these prices but they have no idea how much work goes into offering the highest quality and the cost of these luxourius fabrics.
What's wrong with a RLPL suit compare to a bespoke almost the same thing.
RLPP is great but I always have to take the shirts to the tailor. Unless you send them your measurements.
I assume a bespoke shirt would cost around 500 USD?
Nothing wrong, but its not even almost the same thing at all. Ralph Lauren doesn't wear Purple Label suits he gets his made Bespoke by Douglas Hayward, he gets his shoes made Bespoke by George Cleverley I think that says something.
In terms of construction I would put RLPL in the same league as my "custom level suit" and Tom Ford. Great well made suits but not the same thing as a Bespoke suit.
I met Ralph once at Richard James and measured him up for 5 custom shirts, nice chap.
Really? Damn did not know this at all. And jealous 2 that you have met Mr Ralphy
I still don't understand the OP's quest exactly.
Does he want to get a suit in NYC to get a bit of the uniquely American style, or just because he enjoys patronizing local shops?
Does he wish to find the the local equivalent of what he likes already, or does he wish to try something new?
As discussed, there are many quality custom tailors still operating.
If he wishes to find the local equivalent of English A&S style soft tailoring, there are many examples ranging from Flusser to Paul Stuart Custom (Rykken) to some of the independents. For a younger look in soft tailoring, (shorter coat etc) there is the recent addition of Manolo Costa.
Other English styles would be well handled by Logsdail or Reeves.
For local flavor he might look to the derivations of the Brooks sack style practiced by Chipp or Corvato.
But the style decision comes first, unless it's simply a matter of finding something to do.
Have you ever heard of long sartorial tradition existing in Puglia (region of southern Italy)? Well, I think you could be very surprised knowing the best living bespoke tailor and the harmonious beauty of his suits!
Just plan a trip to Bari (maybe a long we to appreciate even food, wine and landscape colors), then go to Sartoria Colavito and....you will thank me!
Based off photos and what I've seen around SF, Ercoles is by far the best I've seen from New York and is much cheaper than many options. Then again, he does my stylistic preference very well... Take a look at New York Ranger's photos for examples. If you're willing to travel to Chicago, then Despos is the clear choice. In addition to the entire suit and process being above most, there's something about Despos' shoulders that I've never found better on any of the high end ready to wear brands, except maybe Attolini.
^ I'm a fan of Ercole, and have recommended him to quite a few people, on and off SF. But he is not comparable to NY tailors like Raphael or Corvato. There's a reason why he is half their price.
What are the reasons?
He does a pretty decent job with fit (back balance is sometimes off, but he does work to correct it), but his styling is fairly bland and unprepossessive. The styling of the top NY and SR tailors is much more attractive.
That being said, I think Ercole is fantastic value for money (possibly the best in NYC). He is priced relative to high-end MTM , and offers a much superior garment for the price. I continue to use him for trousers, overcoats, and anything else with long straight seams that requires less styling. But I leave my suits to other tailors.
Btw, I don't think this is a ding on Ercole in any way - why anyone would expect a SR or Raphael / Corvato garment for half the price is beyond me. If you use Ercole, go in with pragmatic expectations, and you'll walk out very happy.
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