Best Bespoke tailoring in New York City

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RobertP77, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Likes Received:
    333
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    While agree that Len's style may work best for the OP, I have always found Raph a real plasure to work with.
     


  2. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2010
    

    While I haven't ordered a suit from Mr. Logsdail, I did have the pleasure of speaking to him a few times. He is very polite and personable and extremely pleasant. I've seen some of his work and it is very good. As a bonus, his coat linings are inserted by hand, something normally found on Italian bespoke, seldom on British, and rarely with American.
     


  3. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,075
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    I wouldn't say that. We put our linings in by hand I've never thought of it as unusual on a English Bespoke suit. I think it's essential really from a perception point of view because unless the client takes the suit apart along with the buttonholes and the collar it's one of the obvious signifiers of a hand made suit. Of course most of the work goes on inside the suit and creates the shape of the coat but people don't recognize that as easily I think.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012


  4. Threadhead

    Threadhead Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    May 7, 2010
    To the OP: Forget those actual tailors. Whoever posts continuously about his own business obviously knows a thing or two. There's your answer!
     




  5. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

    Messages:
    4,310
    Likes Received:
    78
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    

    Funny, I thought David was plugging for Logsdail.
     


  6. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

    Messages:
    4,310
    Likes Received:
    78
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    

    Carl, Corvato used to make for Brooks back in the day, correct? Does this mean he does more of a sack style? Could be the more American style if that is what the OP is looking for. Also. what about Ercole? I thought they had a lot of fans on here.
     


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,075
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    I was endorsing Len. We don't make suits like A&S.

    Len is a good guy and he's all for young people in the business, last week he very kindly offered me the use of his show room to fit my own clients.

    Its really shameful and poor form when the older tailors do nothing but complain about the business dying out and then in the next breath they put down the new generation. Sexton still describes his detractors from the 60s as "old cunts" and Richard James was told he'd be bust in a year. Sadly this is usually how it goes but fortunately this isn't Lens outlook. Not that I'm saying he's particularly old:D

    I think its great that Len takes up a leadership role in the tailoring community here in NYC and like a responsible leader he nurtures, as well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012


  8. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,966
    Likes Received:
    321
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    His reputation is for Ivy-derived clothing, I think.
    I've never actually seen his work "in person",
    but I've seen many photos of it. He makes David
    Letterman's clothes. At a lower price-point for an
    American style, SF - affiliate Winston Tailors (Chipp)
    might be worth looking at. I am a former client of
    theirs- MTM, and liked their interpretation of Ivy
    Style. In my case, very natural shoulders, nipped
    waist, and two vents. This was in the 80s and 90s.
    When I moved to CA and didn't get to New York
    much, I stopped using them- with regrets.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012


  9. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2010
    

    I meant entirely by hand. Anyone worth their salt will sew the shoulder, neck, and armhole lining seams by hand, but I meant the long seams as well. I've seen it on Huntsman, Edward Sexton, Maurice Sedwell, Fallan & Harvey, and a few random off-Row tailors, but I've mostly seen machine sewn long seams. Not that a machined lining makes a bad suit.
     


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    I endorse Ercole, Frank is certainly younger than Len. Most people who want to spend $5,000 for a jacket don't want to use Frank because he isn't as expensive despite the handwork and no outsourcing.
     


  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,365
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    NIno makes a soft shoulder but it has a nice expression.
    some time ago, a customer of mine stopped in. I immediately asked him who made his suit, because
    I liked the way the shoulder looked. It was NIno's suit.

    Frank's father made me a great suit years ago.
    I wore it for at least 10 years.

    great people. I have seen a couple of suits on my customers. They have looked good.
     


  12. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    Not all the guys being discussed are taking on new customers.

    To my eye, no one makes a No. 1 anymore. The old Press, Chipp, and Hilton didn't make it, so their current true or false successors dont make it either. It's dead and gone except on eBay.

    These choices batted around this thread are all over the field.

    Decide on the style first, then ask who does the best job with it.

    Then, you have your answer.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,114
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    +2
     




Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by