Best Bespoke Shirts

[trajan]

What is the difference between the following bespoke shirtmakers from NY? Do they have fabrics of different qualities? Do they make beter cuts than others?

CEGO
Paris
Geneva
Turnbull & Asser
Ascot Chang
etc

thanks,

--trajan

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by trajan

What is the difference between the following bespoke shirtmakers from NY? Do they have fabrics of different qualities? Do they make beter cuts than others?

CEGO
Paris
Geneva
Turnbull & Asser
Ascot Chang
etc

thanks,

--trajan

I think they all probably have similar fabrics from the same mills and merchants. Cutting is specific to a person. I would imagine even if youve been formally trained to cut, your personality will affect the result. I can always tell a paris shirt.

I have tried all of these makers and I chose paris shirts as the most comfortable and elegant. Bear in mind that rather than ask for comparisons which can be subjective and not necessarily address what you are looking for it is better to just get some shirts made. If you cant afford to take the "chance" or need someone else to tell you which one is better or how they are different then you may not be at the point where you are comfortable diving in.

There are people who are happy with all of these brands or makers. I havent necessarily anything negative to say about any of them, only that for my purposes, Paris makes the best for me. I dress for a dash of elegance but mainly to display a sense of prosperity, power and one-upsmanship. I feel Paris grants me that look. I also like their most alluring collar cut and construction which demonstartes the finest stitching I have ever seen.

Another thing to consider is that there are probably half the amount of shirtmakers in NYC that there were just a few years ago and the number isnt getting larger any time soon. If I were you, i would consider that a more motivating factor; that you are living in the last great age for getting these things and that you should "Git 'er done", as they say in the vernacular.

I have written a few essays about paris and if nothing else consider CEGOs boxer shorts made from fine shirt material and the most comfortable Ive ever owned.

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/is-paris-burning

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/...shirts-reprise

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/...-and-well-made

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Film_Noir_Buff

I think they all probably have similar fabrics from the same mills and merchants. Cutting is specific to a person. I would imagine even if youve been formally trained to cut, your personality will affect the result. I can always tell a paris shirt.

I have tried all of these makers and I chose paris shirts as the most comfortable and elegant. Bear in mind that rather than ask for comparisons which can be subjective and not necessarily address what you are looking for it is better to just get some shirts made. If you cant afford to take the "chance" or need someone else to tell you which one is better or how they are different then you may not be at the point where you are comfortable diving in.

There are people who are happy with all of these brands or makers. I havent necessarily anything negative to say about any of them, only that for my purposes, Paris makes the best for me. I dress for a dash of elegance but mainly to display a sense of prosperity, power and one-upsmanship. I feel Paris grants me that look. I also like their most alluring collar cut and construction which demonstartes the finest stitching I have ever seen.

Another thing to consider is that there are probably half the amount of shirtmakers in NYC that there were just a few years ago and the number isnt getting larger any time soon. If I were you, i would consider that a more motivating factor; that you are living in the last great age for getting these things and that you should "Git 'er done", as they say in the vernacular.

I have written a few essays about paris and if nothing else consider CEGOs boxer shorts made from fine shirt material and the most comfortable Ive ever owned.

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/is-paris-burning

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/...shirts-reprise

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/...-and-well-made
You forgot Alex Kabbaz

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by RJman

You forgot Alex Kabbaz

Not at all, i was responding to the title post.

 

[whoopee]

I've tried a few of these makers, along with a couple others, and would add that once you reach a certain level of quality, factors like convenience, customer service, how much you enjoy working with the artisan, etc. become more important. It will save you a lot of aggravation.

 

[gehrig]

What's the min order, ballpark price, address, and is an appointment required, for Geneva?

 

[johninla]

How does WW Chan match up?

 

[Panzeraxe II]

Originally Posted by gehrig

What's the min order, ballpark price, address, and is an appointment required, for Geneva?

4, starting at $220, 38 W. 32nd St, 3rd Floor, Yes

 

[Panzeraxe II]

Originally Posted by johninla

How does WW Chan match up?

In my opinion, nowhere close to the makers mentioned above. The fit, style and workmanship of Geneva, Paris, AC etc. are superior.

Panzer

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by trajan

What is the difference between the following bespoke shirtmakers from NY? Do they have fabrics of different qualities? Do they make beter cuts than others?
Everyone has access to the same cloth, for the most part. The exception would be T&A, which weaves a lot of its own exclusives. CEGO gets stuff you won't see everwhere because Carl buys up end bolts wherever he can find them. Geneva also has some odd lots they get from a jobber in New Jersey. In both cases, this is not spectacular cloth, quality-wise, but servicable and inexpensive. And you can find unusual patterns if you are lucky. Otherwise, you are ordering out of the same books that pretty much everyone has. Paris and Geneva probably have better stock of the upper end books.

I have, over the years, tried everone on that list. I have recent experience with Paris and Geneva. I would say that the make is the same, or looks the same to me. The two exceptions are that Geneva's default button is a little better, whereas Paris's interlinings are a little better. As to fit, my pattern from Paris was a bit more full. Geneva made me shirts that are cut closer to the body. I can't say that's a matter of "house style" or anything, just the way it worked out for me.

 

[Panzeraxe II]

I have used some of the makers listed above fairly recently (Paris, Geneva, AC, CEGO) and also Salvatore Piccolo, Charvet through Saks, and Dege & Skinner (I've been on a bit of a shirt-buying mission laterly!).

I have meant to post a review of each firm but have been swamped with work - maybe over Thanksgiving.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

I have used some of the makers listed above fairly recently (Paris, Geneva, AC, CEGO) and also Salvatore Piccolo, Charvet through Saks, and Dege & Skinner (I've been on a bit of a shirt-buying mission laterly!).

I have meant to post a review of each firm but have been swamped with work - maybe over Thanksgiving.
I'll be interested to hear what you have to say about Piccolo. The word on him in Naples is not so good.

 

[gehrig]

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

4, starting at $220, 38 W. 32nd St, 3rd Floor, Yes

Thank you sir

 

[Alias]

I got my first Paris shirts today. I love them. The cuffs could be a bit more snug though, and the sleeves could be just a bit longer. Nothing future adjustments won't handle.

Ascot Chang is good too. I went to the store in Shanghai. They did everything I wanted: snug cuffs with no fused interlining, nonfused collar band with fused collar.

 

[lockey2k]

Originally Posted by Alias

I got my first Paris shirts today. I love them. The cuffs could be a bit more snug though, and the sleeves could be just a bit longer. Nothing future adjustments won't handle.

Ascot Chang is good too. I went to the store in Shanghai. They did everything I wanted: snug cuffs with no fused interlining, nonfused collar band with fused collar.

What are the price points and turn around time for Paris?